Just a suggestion, but have you considered dropping your system low enough to run a sepex or AC motor like JRP3? His Fiero has fully functioning regen setup and seems to have enough pow - well, I'll let him tell you how it runsI live in the foothills of SoCal and I notice that while I drive any of my ICE vehicles, auto or stick, I use downshifting to control my speed. I do this for traffic or hills. Since I am seriously considering a DC electric conversion, I would like some resistance from the drivetrain when operating under zero throttle. I would use the transmission to select the amount of drag, lower gears for more deceleration, just the same as the ICE vehicles. My intended pack voltage will probably be 156V (48 lithium cells). I know that a controller will be needed to prevent overcharging, the max regen (charging) voltage should be no higher than 168V - 170V.
Since I typically care about efficiency, I don't want to just drag the brakes all the way downhill or approaching a traffic signal (I don't do that today in my Suburban, Fit, Insight or 914-V8). So for the sake of driveability, how can I get the conversion to feel more like a regular car? I'm not impressed with the AC systems that are available today, none seem to match the power of a WarP9 for a similar weight.
I've spent a day reading way too many threads that barely touch on the subject (please don't mention perpetual motion) and the only practical advice that I mined from all that has been the guy with the S-10 that rewound his own alternator. I was hoping that I could buy most of the components necessary to build a similar finished product. I'm not looking for a kit, just some sources for the major components. I'm also open to alternative strategies. Anybody else headed down this path before?
I do agree however that under some conditions, not having any engine brakes can be hazardous.