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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

This is my first post on this forum so please be gentle. ;)

This seems like an awesome forum with alot of knowlege!

I have a small Sports car (Fiat Coupé 20v Turbo) that has been sitting in my garage for a couple of years. It runs, but not 100% and I have been planning an engine rebuild. The body and interior is in excellent shape for a 19 year old car.

The car is about 1300kg/2850lbs (curb weight) and has 260hp from an inline 5 cyl 2.0 litre turbo Engine and FWD.

After building two electric bikes from scratch (one with 1,6KW and one with 6KW), I´m leaning towards converting my car instead of rebuilding the ICE.

I have been researching what parts I need to convert the car to fully Electric but have a hard time understanding what motor/voltage/amp would suite my project. I´m looking for simular performance or atleast somewhat close to simular performance as with the ICE.

Looking at Warp 9, 11 and simular, (keeping the gearbox and clutch) but I´m not really shure they will make enough power. The engine compartment is pretty tight and I don´t think I have space for dual motors.

I have not really thought about batteries and controller yet, but a range of 50+ miles would be nice.

As always the budget is limited and if the performance goals drive the price up to much I might have to lower them or keep the ICE.

I was hoping to get some suggestions on what setup that reliably can provide 150kw+ peak.

Thanks!
 

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The car is about 1300kg/2850lbs (curb weight) and has 260hp from an inline 5 cyl 2.0 litre turbo Engine and FWD.
Take a look at the Tesla based projects using the 'small' front drive unit (here) and 'small' rear drive unit (here). These typically weigh ~90kg including the transmission and inverter (so you can dump the ICE clutch, transmission, diff, etc). Peak input power is ~220 kW (294 HP).

An open source inverter controller (here) is currently being tested in several cars with a range of different Tesla 'large' and 'small' motors;

Tesla Powered BMW E31 8 Series - 'large' rear motor with Tesla battery modules

Tesla Powered Nissan 350Z - 'large' rear motor with Tesla battery modules

1967 VW Split Screen Van - "ICE Breaker" - 'small' rear motor with Tesla battery modules

1978 VW Beetle 1303 Convertible - "ICE Breaker 2" - 'small' rear motor with Leaf battery modules

The open source controller supports a wide range of battery types ranging from ~250V to ~400V. Depending on your range and top end requirements a battery containing 10 Tesla Modules might be a suitable choice.

Open source solutions are also in development for the Tesla charger (here), BMS (here), DCDC, Air Compressor, etc., etc. :cool:

If you add your location to your profile it might be possible for you to visit one of the developers and discuss your project if that's helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank's Kevin!

That was just the kind of answer I was looking for :)

With a hacked Inverter this would (almost) drop staight in and solve alot of issues with gearbox and clutch mating to a motor.

I guess the only downside is that batteries will be expensive at 250V+ but that might be the price you have to pay for simplicity.

I live in Sweden and unfortunately the is not really a plenthora of used Tesla parts available here, but there is always Ebay I guess... Is there any other good reputable source selling Tesla parts?

With this simple drivetrain I might even consider converting to RWD at the same time :D
 

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I guess the only downside is that batteries will be expensive at 250V+ but that might be the price you have to pay for simplicity.
If you're looking for performance you'll need to invest in some decent batteries... Leaf modules are pretty cheap but probably don't have the performance you need... Volt modules might be a better fit... What's your budget?

Is there any other good reputable source selling Tesla parts?
Here is a good place to start :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If you're looking for performance you'll need to invest in some decent batteries... Leaf modules are pretty cheap but probably don't have the performance you need... Volt modules might be a better fit... What's your budget?
Thank's again Kevin, I will look more into Leaf and Volt modules, but I´m shure youre right about the lower performance of Leaf batteries

The initial budget is always about a third of what the build is ending up costing :) I was hoping to be able to do the conversion for about 15000 Euro. This does not include AC, Heater etc. just to get the car running.


Here is a good place to start :cool:
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hello
I am selling the older technic Netgain dc Controller on eBay.
https://www.ebay.de/itm/Netgain-1400-ampere-360v-Controller/152794114854

The Tesla drivetrain is Not so easy to install, i think.

In an other selling on eBay i have a new Netgain warp11 Motor.
But Not with shipping.

I am from Germany, and the TÜV whant no Motors without CE Plate.
Bad fore me.

Greetings Boxster-Warp
Hi Boxter Warp,

Thank's for bringing up CE-approval, I'll have to check with the Swedish equivalent of TÜV, that might actually be a problem here as well.

I also want to do a bit more reseach on OEM drive units from Tesla and Leaf before i buy any parts, thank's anyway!

Regards
Martin
 

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With this simple drivetrain I might even consider converting to RWD at the same time :D
It would be a lot easier and perhaps cheaper to scrap the Fiat Coupé (assuming that you mean the 1990's Type 175) and start with something that has rear wheel drive... although the Coupé does have an interesting style. :)
 

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Thank's for bringing up CE-approval, I'll have to check with the Swedish equivalent of TÜV, that might actually be a problem here as well.
If you do need a CE certificated drivetrain then afaik New Electric are the only company that have invested in the testing of Siemens and HPEVS in Europe.

Going forward a number of people have expressed an interest in testing and certifying the Tesla components for use in countries that require it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
It would be a lot easier and perhaps cheaper to scrap the Fiat Coupé (assuming that you mean the 1990's Type 175) and start with something that has rear wheel drive... although the Coupé does have an interesting style. :)
Hi Brian,

You are absolutely right, would be MUCH easier to start with an e36 or simular. Unfortunately I am one of the few that really love the Chris Bangle/Pininfarina design of the Coupé, and have a real weakness for Italian cars. I have actually been playing with the idea of RWD-converting my Coupé with the ICE motor before, but this might be "Stage 2" of a conversion.

 

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Discussion Starter #11
If you do need a CE certificated drivetrain then afaik New Electric are the only company that have invested in the testing of Siemens and HPEVS in Europe.

Going forward a number of people have expressed an interest in testing and certifying the Tesla components for use in countries that require it.
That is interesting, I just assumed that (almost) all modern technology was CE-certified.

I built a Super Seven replica about ten years ago and then there were no rules (in Sweden) that stated parts had to be CE-approved. An electric converison follows the same approval process as my Super Seven, so I hope that this will not be an issue. I will be shure to double check this before getting to deep into the build though.
 

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I built a Super Seven replica about ten years ago and then there were no rules (in Sweden) that stated parts had to be CE-approved. An electric converison follows the same approval process as my Super Seven, so I hope that this will not be an issue. I will be shure to double check this before getting to deep into the build though.
New rules were introduced across Europe in the last couple of years... some countries decided to implement more stringent requirements including EMC certification (The Netherlands). Here's a thread that discusses some of the issues;

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/uk-iva-october-2016-update-now-177961.html

I would suggest trying to find someone in Sweden who has registered an electric conversion recently :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
New rules were introduced across Europe in the last couple of years... some countries decided to implement more stringent requirements including EMC certification (The Netherlands). Here's a thread that discusses some of the issues;

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/uk-iva-october-2016-update-now-177961.html

I would suggest trying to find someone in Sweden who has registered an electric conversion recently :)
I have emailed an inspector from SFRO, which is the organisation that inspects and approves home built or modified vehicles in Sweden. Should be interesting to hear what he has to say.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
If you don't need your electronics to be "approved" then a DC setup is much much cheaper and can be more powerful

This is my "Device"

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/duncans-dubious-device-44370p15.html?highlight=duncan
Hi Duncan,

I bet your home grown Seven is super quick of the line. If I could do my Super Seven build again it would definitly have an electric motor.

Without really knowing what conversion parts are availiable or what's possible, The initial plan was roughly:

  • No need for gears
  • Regen Braking
  • 150-200kw Power
  • 50 miles+ range
  • Like any other EV to drive (Wife-proof)
Allthough compromises are inevitable with a limited budget.

I now know that regen is a no go and gears are hard to avoid with most DC-motors. If there is a good DC alternative where price/power/availability/weight is better than an AC setup I'd be willing to compromise.

From my short research the biggest cost by far seems be the batteries on both AC and DC setups. A new Warp 11 motor costs roughly the same as a used Tesla front drive unit, which includes an inverter and diff.
 

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Hello
My used Netgain Controller and my new warp11 on eBay cost 3900€, without shipping.
Controller shipping is ok but Motor Not.
I paid fore Both 5700€ :(

Tesla Drive Unit Are a good Choice too.
Here in Germany cost a Tesla drivetrain 5000-7000€ without new Axels.

The Most conversions in Germany was with Curtis Controllern.(with low power).
But One Factory whant sell in Summer the scottdrive Controller with an TÜV Option.
The Controller cost alone 6000€, many Money.
It is Not easy to Build an ev conversion in Germany :(
Greetings Boxster-Warp.
 

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Hi 24seven

My motor cost me $100NZ
The controller was about $800NZ
Batteries $3300NZ all up (Volt pack)

No gearbox
1200 amps and 340 v

I built it a bit too heavy - 805 Kg - 900 kg with me in it

55% of the weight on the rear wheels, Subaru diff with LSD

It will smoke the rear tyres! - I have ordered some super sticky only just road legal tyres for next year

I normally drive it at 45% power - 100% is a bit too exciting
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hello
My used Netgain Controller and my new warp11 on eBay cost 3900€, without shipping.
Controller shipping is ok but Motor Not.
I paid fore Both 5700€ :(

Tesla Drive Unit Are a good Choice too.
Here in Germany cost a Tesla drivetrain 5000-7000€ without new Axels.

The Most conversions in Germany was with Curtis Controllern.(with low power).
But One Factory whant sell in Summer the scottdrive Controller with an TÜV Option.
The Controller cost alone 6000€, many Money.
It is Not easy to Build an ev conversion in Germany :(
Greetings Boxster-Warp.

Sorry for the late answer, been down with the flu and a nasty cough.

Yeah, shipping and customs/tax really add alot to the price. :(

If going with the Tesla drive train I would much rather buy it from somewhere in EU to minimize shipping and avoid customs. However, I´m affraid it will be hard to find parts as cheap here. Found this on Ebay, not within EU though.

I really hope we don´t have as strict rules here as you do in germany, still waiting for reply from the Swedish Car inspectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hi 24seven

My motor cost me $100NZ
The controller was about $800NZ
Batteries $3300NZ all up (Volt pack)

No gearbox
1200 amps and 340 v

I built it a bit too heavy - 805 Kg - 900 kg with me in it

55% of the weight on the rear wheels, Subaru diff with LSD

It will smoke the rear tyres! - I have ordered some super sticky only just road legal tyres for next year

I normally drive it at 45% power - 100% is a bit too exciting
That is really impressive! I now have to read your build thread again from start to finish :D

My super Seven had a Curb weight of about 500kg and 200hk/250N. I can only imagine how it would be with almost twice the Power :D
 

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Hi, I know this is an old thread, but was just wondering if you got anywhere with the coupe? I am really keen to convert one, but am just at initial planning stages
Regards, Matt
 
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