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Discussion Starter #1
I was very happy to get the new controller after mine died a while ago.
Alltrax had it for only 5 days and sent me out a new one, with a 2 year warranty.
Put it in today and all is well.
These are very good people to deal with.
 

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I've heard that also from others, I was though disappointed when I asked Alltrax a question about installing a controller bypass relay with my 7245 controller, and the first thing they came back with was "You've voided your warranty, by using an aircraft generator for a motor" Well, I was never told that I had to purchase a particular motor for an Alltrax Controller, when I purchased the controller. So far, knock on wood, the motor and controller are working nicely together.
 

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the first thing they came back with was "You've voided your warranty, by using an aircraft generator for a motor" Well, I was never told that I had to purchase a particular motor for an Alltrax Controller, when I purchased the controller
Ouch! that stinks. I wonder what the big deal is.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When I got my 7245 they didn't say a thing about what I was using for a motor.

I did have a question about how warm it should get. Mine seems like it gets a little too hot and I don't want to damage it. It is almost too hot to leave your hand on it, but cools right down after it is off.

I was told that it had an overheat switch, that would shut it off in case it got too hot.

How warm does your's get?
 

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Mine barely gets warm, but, I've also mounted 3ea Pentium4 heatsink & fans to the flat surface of the Alltrax 7245, and I have the highspeed fan left over from the I.C.E. days of the car, blowing air over the motor and contoller.

The ambient temperature here in the summer can hover around 110F w/80+humidity during the summer, so I try everything I can to keep all the electronics COOL.

I'd suggest adding heaksink(s) & fans at the very least.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I ran mine home today for lunch (5 miles), as was the purpose for building it and it did fine and not so much heat buildup.

Am going to afix a heat sink to the top and see if that helps.

On my 48 volt system, I didn't run the controller through the pot box snap switch and the car seemed to start smoother. I had solenoids on the pack + & - and lit the controller without the big contacter. The foot feed just brought the controller to life.

The 72 volt system has brought about a lot of changes.

Now when I step on the pedal, the contacter and all come on fast and the car has a lurch to it, that I don't like. Possibly driver practice will calm that down.
 

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You are running with the resistor across the contactor right? You need this to precharge the capacitors in the controller.

I don't use the switch on the pot box, as my pot box was used from a discarded golfcart, and the switch was bad. You might also want to connect the controller to a laptop, and run the free controller software from Alltrax. There are several options you can play with in that software for your accelerator pot box. This will help you find that sweet spot for your takeoff.
 

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Mine barely gets warm, but, I've also mounted 3ea Pentium4 heatsink & fans to the flat surface of the Alltrax 7245, and I have the highspeed fan left over from the I.C.E. days of the car, blowing air over the motor and contoller.

The ambient temperature here in the summer can hover around 110F w/80+humidity during the summer, so I try everything I can to keep all the electronics COOL.

I'd suggest adding heaksink(s) & fans at the very least.
You can buy the neodymium electric-turbos on ebay for 39.95 each--they blow air very hard-just put a varable switch on them or use several different therm temps with several different relay overides-so as it gets hotter the fan speeds up. Also I am going to put coils of 1/4 copper around my motors and my controllers to keep them cool using water cooling. Its easy to hook up a closed water/antifreeze system using a transmission cooler and single 10 inch ele fan on a therm. Using a small 12v water pump. Neogeogray
 
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