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I plan on finding the smallest most aerodynamic car i can find that still seats at least 4. probably will end up with a metro, they're expensive here if they run (like $3,000+ for a '96 :-X) but if its just the rolling chassis then they're dirt cheap.
 

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http://www.electricmotorsport.com/store/ems_ev_parts_motors_ac-induction.php
System's performance is very similar to Advanced DC Motors' FB1-4001 @~120V http://www.electroauto.com/catalog/dcmotors.shtml which is said to be rated for ev's <5000lb's. I contacted the company and they said they will work with customers to produce an adapter plate for ev conversions. I plan on using the $3200 kit when i can and will let everyone know how it performs.

Admittedly I'm a noobie in this forum.. So...

Correct me if I'm wrong. but the Cheapest "KIT" i see at this electroauto site is over 9K. I see "Motors"
without controllers for 3000K but not full conversion kits..

Maybe it's because the market is limited. But I believe many of these EV Parts sellers are making a killing off the current Gas crunch.

I've been building all kinds of custom hand made gear for years. and I've never had to pay more than 300 for any kind of high voltage high torque electric motors and I'm talking brand new GE EQUIPMENT from the suppliers... There is no reason that I can see why any DC or AC motor should cost 2-3K.... all the other neccessaries?.. MAYBE... but I think these guys are just jacking the prices way out of proportion.

But, then again, I've been wrong before, and I'll probably be wrong some more..

also, I just found a Li po Battery pack with these specs..

37 volt 4000mAh 15C - 60+ amp Stick Style
Regular Price $689.99
Sale Price 349.00

are these specs close to what an EV would need.. seems that they might be.​
 

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What are the actual specs of the motors you were getting so cheaply?
As for that battery, 4000 mah is 4 ah, which isn't crap as far as automotive needs.
Ah ha, Well, like I said, I've been wrong before,
It's obvious that I'm not completely familar with what is needed to make a successful pure EV.

Which brings me to the story of how and why I stumbled in here..

Thursday evening . My faithful 1977 Fiat 124 spyder.. lost all compression in the engine. upon careful inspection it appears that the pistons and rings are worn beyond their useful life..

Now comes the choice, Spend a fortune to rebuilt the existing engine or apparently, the even higher fortune to go pure EV

I love my little car and it's served me well for over 200K miles. I also have a small fortune in it in keeping up all it's systems and the car has been fully refurbished nearly twice over.

So I'm looking to understand a great deal of information all at once,
Industrial 3 phase electric motors are cheap arounfd here as many foundries shut down and tons of those motors were throw in the trash.
Many ended up at a local armature rewinding house, where just about anything electric motor wise can be purchased for dirt cheap.
But would these motors be useful or not? what about controllers for them and someone else asked about Industrial electrical controllers they do apear to be rather "malluable" in their uses.

plus this whole batttery question is a serious quandry. can someone give me a "guideline" set of specs for a vechile being capable of 80 MPH and a range of say about 100 miles which is about what I have to drive during a single day. I felt like the fiat which weighs in at 2250 curb weight would be a good candidate for Conversion.. but now I'm confused. is there a formula that can help give a ratio of power/weight and is a 70 lb all aluminum transmission a good idea to keep and use or would the weight savings of direct drive be better in the long run? and why at I seeing such strange specs in reguards to RPMS.. Sory guys But I'm used to seeing RPMS in my motors in the 10s of thousands, and I'm not used to thinking about electric motors as being so limited as seems to be described here.

And then there is the whole ac/dc debate. whats the advantage/disadvantages? regen braking? system complexities?

Sorry for all the questions and I don't expect answers to all of them. But if someone could give me a direction that is more plausible than the one I'm reading around here, It would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Basically if you really need a 100 mile range then you'll almost certainly have to go with lithium, a lot of lithium, which means a lot of money. It also means you'll want a really efficient system which probably means high voltage AC, which means more money. Industrial motors are usually not efficient, and are way over built, (heavy), since they may be running constantly for years.
AC does regen but that's really only helpful if you do a lot of stop and go, so you may be able to get away with a DC system if most of your trip is flat and constant.
Plan on keeping the transmission with a DC system, maybe not with a powerful enough AC system, but still probably better with a trans.

What have you been driving with tens of thousands of RPM's :eek:
 

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What have you been driving with tens of thousands of RPM's :eek:

Machineing spindles.. pin routers . tooling for wood working primarily.

I build electric guitars and tube amps for a living.

I 've studied everything i could find about Nikola Tesla and his original electric car. and I'm very aware of some "recent" innovations in power supply tecnology in the newest generations of Audio equipment that is useing many of Tesla's "frequency conversion" ideas in the power supplies. and I just wondered if anyone has done any work along those lines as applied to EVs.

the idea is that Tesla was playing around with changing the given freq. of the electricy that he was generating to much higher than 60Hz. say on the order of 50K-150Khz and up. he was able to generate huge amounts of voltage that had very little "bite" (the tesla coil) so to speak and then convert it back down again to have it do work.

Someone once explained it like this;

120 volts of electrcity "at 60 Hz" is like an elephant knocking you over at a mere 1 mph... at that freq. even a lower voltage is gonna do damage.. where the higher the freq. of the electrcity, would be more like a mosquito hitting you at full flight speed of 100 MPH... you could have 1000 mosquitos hit you at full speed and not much would happen..except you would look like a windshield on a hot summer night..

Supposedly Tesla could convert at will, energy to whatever freqency was needed for his "transmission without wires" and then back into a 60 hz working voltage.. with very little, If any, losses.

Currently there is a company called Genz Benz, they make a 750 watt output bass amplifier that has a high freq, power supply that converts 120 Vac @60 Hz to an unknown (to me anyway) voltage at 7 Khz, rectifies it into DC and then drops it back to 60 Hz without any transformers or diodes, and the entire amp only weighs 3.5 pounds...
and I was wondering if something like this might be what Tesla was useing with his EV of 1936-7
 

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I had considered this motor and controller combo too.

46 hp is super exaggerated. I talked to the manufacturer of the motor and they said this is made for golf carts. If the motor powered a car it would be up in smoke before reaching 25mph.

The graph shown on EVParts.com was lifted from hiperformancegolfcars.com who sells the motor as an 18 horse motor. They took the graph and cropped out the motor part number.

All the motors on the EV parts website are the same frame motor with supposedly different windings. Generally speaking, a motors horsepower is based upon how much heat it can dissipate. The physical dimensions of the AC motor are about what a 2 hp frame size would be, there is no way that motor is going to dissipate the heat of a 46 hp motor for more than a few seconds.
 

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I had considered this motor and controller combo too.

46 hp is super exaggerated. I talked to the manufacturer of the motor and they said this is made for golf carts. If the motor powered a car it would be up in smoke before reaching 25mph.

The graph shown on EVParts.com was lifted from hiperformancegolfcars.com who sells the motor as an 18 horse motor. They took the graph and cropped out the motor part number.
Not sure what you mean. The small AC motor mentioned in the first post was from http://www.electricmotorsport.com/store/ems_ev_parts_motors_ac-induction.php
not evparts, and doesn't look anything like the hiperformancegolfcars.com motor. Yes the graph at 48 volts is the same, but that's it. The electricmotorsport motor can supposedly run up to 84 volts, hence the higher hp rating. I agree it's still too small for a car.
 

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Whats the general opinion on this setups durability, longevity in a highway speed, aerodynamic reverse trike, weighing say 1500 pounds (with people) and pulling 2 hour long duty cycles?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
glad we can agree because i have that metro sitting in my driveway right now lol. i have to save up for a while but plan on converting it asap and really wanted to do ac because of the regen. i'd like to squeeze a range extending generator in there as well just so it can be my main vehicle. i did some calculations and a 15kw would make it 100% series hybrid but those gen heads weigh like 360lbs :eek:. i might just go with a 10kw that i can get for cheap and is really compact and light. then just stop to eat while it recharges the batteries if i need to go for a long trip.

i think that ac system from electroauto.com is a generic commercial ac motor that they'd use in factories. the decently powerful one is 230lbs :eek:. the weight of the one from electricmotorsports.com is kinda fishy but it might just be built lightweight for e-atv's, nev's, and high performance golfcarts or maybe even the golfcarts you see designed for hauling large loads around. i drove one of those and they do have some power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
yeah your right they're not factory motors, i found some spec sheet pdf's online. only thing that bothers me about that motor is it's min operating voltage is 144 and that's a lot of lead. the metro's passenger capacity is about 688lbs and the motor only weighs like around 150 or so lbs. i'm just worried about to much weight in that little thing. i could always put stiffer springs and what not into it so it wouldn't bounce all over the place but its a '93 and i kinda doubt its structural integrity is exactily 100%.

i know i can't get away with making an ev/hev these days without a ton of lead but i wanted to do like 7 batterys and then a generator for extended range and the difference between 7 and 12 batteries is about 285lbs

i contacted electricmotorsport.com about a bit more info on their ac motor, i'd just like a bit more info then they posted like model number maybe so i can see if anyone else has used that motor and on what.
 
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