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Discussion Starter #1
I have finally decided on donor car and bought a 2004 Audi A2. It has a 1.4l petrol engine and a five speed transmission. Check out the garage at http://www.diyelectriccar.com/garage/cars/408 and the build blog at http://ev-a2.blogspot.com.
Here is an image of the car.

Nothing much has happened yet and my first move will be to convert the brakes to larger discs in the front, from drums to discs in the rear, and a larger main cylinder. This is only to circumvent the stiff Swedish regulations for converting newer (> 1993) cars. However it has some good sides to it in that the EMC regulations become looser when you change alot on the car :confused:. Anyway, since it is a VAG car I'm gaming on that VW Golf IV parts will fit.
 

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looks like a great candidate.... why do you HAVE to change the brakes? I would really hesitate to mess with brakes of all things. ;) If you go with a reasonable Lithium pack, you will finish pretty much at stock weight, no real need to beef up brakes much.
Because the law is weird.

This is only to circumvent the stiff Swedish regulations for converting newer (> 1993) cars. However it has some good sides to it in that the EMC regulations become looser when you change alot on the car .
 

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Discussion Starter #5
looks like a great candidate.... why do you HAVE to change the brakes? I would really hesitate to mess with brakes of all things. ;) If you go with a reasonable Lithium pack, you will finish pretty much at stock weight, no real need to beef up brakes much.
I totally agree. I would rather not mess with the brakes. My alternative (described below) is to use a car older than 1993 which I dont want to.

I'll try to explain the Swedish regulations for converting cars (as I understand them).
If you convert an older car (< 1993) everything is pretty easy. But, if you convert a car newer than 1993 things get messy. Basicly the are two categories of converted cars, "changed vehicle" (ändrat fordon in Swedish) and "rebuilt vehicle" (ombyggd fordon). A changed vehicle implies less changes and a rebuilt vehicle implies more changes done to the car.
For a car newer than 1993, if you only change the engine (which an electric conversion is) you need the car manufacturers certificate that the new engine is OK to put into the car. That means getting VAG to certify that the electric motor I have put in is OK for the A2. This they will never do! And this closes the path to have a newer car classed as a changed vehicle. You have to go the other path, making it a rebuilt vehicle.
In order for a conversion to be categorized as rebuilt vehicle at least two out of three major components of the car have to be changed. The major components are 1) engine and drive train, 2) brake system, 3) steering. And since the brakes are easier to change than the steering this is the way most car converters in Sweden do it.
To summarize. I you want to convert a car to electric in Sweden, either use a car older than 1993 or also change the brakes or steering.
The good thing about this is that the certification procedure actually is easier for a rebuilt vehicle than for a changed vehicle. There is an organzation called The National Swedish Vehicle Builders Organisation (Svenska Fordonsbyggares RiksOrganisation, SFRO) who perform a pre-approval of the car and the official certification agencies basicly only check that SFRO have performed the steps they need to do and then issue a new certification. Another good thing is that there are no EMC requirements for rebuilt vehicles, only recommendations (Note: this is not 100% confirmed yet).
So, some things get easier, while some things gets harder when converting newer cars in Sweden.
i guess most people would agree that this is a crazy. The cars will not get any safer for amateurs are changing important safety systems, like the brakes. Personally, I believe this is a huge limiter on the DIY electric conversions. There is an ongoing discussion about easying the regulations for converting vehicles to electric, but, SFRO representatives do not think that will happen in near time.
DISCLAIMER, This is the way I understand the Swedish regulations. It is not an official statement!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Project on the move again

It's been awfully quite from this project for quite a while.
Well, I have ordered parts and some are starting to arrive now. Also the remaining design decisions are getting fewer and fewer.
Check out the blog at http://ev-a2.blogspot.com
 

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Hi there, great blog! That pump is fairly quiet, considering you ran it outside and on top of a wooden surface. I was surprised to see how quickly it went from 600 to 800 mbars. Is that the expected hysteresis during normal braking operation? Even if it's a wider range, the pump seems quick enough to just be active for a few seconds.

I can't wait until the days when EV parts are available so we can pick an all-electric brake system and skip the vacuum pumps altogether.

JR
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks JR!

Yea, I think the noice will be bearable when I suspend the pump in its rubber bushings. The 600-800 mbar is the planned hysteresis and the pump seems to cover that in a just a couple of seconds with the 1 litre reservoir.

I agree with you and think it is amazing that todays ICE cars still use vacuum powered brake boosters instead of electrical.
 

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Re: Adapter and batteries

Got delivery of 68 CALB100FI from evpower.eu and an adapter plate from Rebbl. The cells have varying resting voltage. Is that normal? Check out the blog at http://ev-a2.blogspot.com
Some cells are either shipped at a lower SOC or need a few cycles before they stabilize.

My guess is the former, a few cells are undercharged before shipping.

Stick a label on them, and see how they go with a few cycles on them and then again later on.
 

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Re: Adapter and batteries

Some cells are either shipped at a lower SOC or need a few cycles before they stabilize.

My guess is the former, a few cells are undercharged before shipping.

Stick a label on them, and see how they go with a few cycles on them and then again later on.
Will try that.
 
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