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Good news/bad news.
I don't do electronics in the controller well yet. I kinda do trannies in Rangers {and I can play a mechanic or mad scientist on TV}.The trans is the 4R44E / 4R55E which wasn't the correct trans for an 89 (or at least that is the proper pan cover for it). the torque converter/motor must spin for it to build pressure and engage the gears.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/AutoTrans.html Suggest you sign up and get familiar with these people
Jack it up and put the rear axle on some heavy duty jack stand so you can spin the wheels by hand.
Spinning slowly (800) rpm is what it needs to have the inner pumps work and engage the bands. There should be a transmission cooler near the front somewhere with solid steel lines and possibly a small fan. get it to idle with one connection kinda loose and see if that connector leaks. if it does, then the pump is building enough pressure. Next: find trans dipstick. pull it and check fluid level. cold, it should be about a quart low, bottom of hash marks if the cooler is full. You are mostly looking for evidence of fluid (more later) it also should be new trans fluid magenta and smell the end for and burnt or funny odors. Go and get a new bottle if you aren't sure of color or smell. if none of the above, it should at least go into gear if you bring the idle up some, usually with a CLUNK. one foot on the brake, parking brake fully engaged should not allow it to go anywhere.
The wire means someone put in something to make part of the tranny work. if it goes to the passenger side of the tranny it is the reverse set, if it goes to the front by the shift linkage, it is the lockup switch, and should only be engaged at speed. if it does to an 6 pin connector it is the start neutral override. if it goes to the rear drivers side almost to the end, it is either a tach signal or the speedometer.
I don't do electronics in the controller well yet. I kinda do trannies in Rangers {and I can play a mechanic or mad scientist on TV}.The trans is the 4R44E / 4R55E which wasn't the correct trans for an 89 (or at least that is the proper pan cover for it). the torque converter/motor must spin for it to build pressure and engage the gears.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/AutoTrans.html Suggest you sign up and get familiar with these people
Jack it up and put the rear axle on some heavy duty jack stand so you can spin the wheels by hand.
Spinning slowly (800) rpm is what it needs to have the inner pumps work and engage the bands. There should be a transmission cooler near the front somewhere with solid steel lines and possibly a small fan. get it to idle with one connection kinda loose and see if that connector leaks. if it does, then the pump is building enough pressure. Next: find trans dipstick. pull it and check fluid level. cold, it should be about a quart low, bottom of hash marks if the cooler is full. You are mostly looking for evidence of fluid (more later) it also should be new trans fluid magenta and smell the end for and burnt or funny odors. Go and get a new bottle if you aren't sure of color or smell. if none of the above, it should at least go into gear if you bring the idle up some, usually with a CLUNK. one foot on the brake, parking brake fully engaged should not allow it to go anywhere.
The wire means someone put in something to make part of the tranny work. if it goes to the passenger side of the tranny it is the reverse set, if it goes to the front by the shift linkage, it is the lockup switch, and should only be engaged at speed. if it does to an 6 pin connector it is the start neutral override. if it goes to the rear drivers side almost to the end, it is either a tach signal or the speedometer.
Part DEAUX
the hose in pix #4 is the vacuum modulator, which is where the ICE vacuum hose went the one in pix #5. not having one means the wee beastie will shift at about 3500 to 5000 rpm and is not now an issue.
dumb question: are the batteries charged (about 12-13 volts X number of batteries?)
the hose in pix #4 is the vacuum modulator, which is where the ICE vacuum hose went the one in pix #5. not having one means the wee beastie will shift at about 3500 to 5000 rpm and is not now an issue.
dumb question: are the batteries charged (about 12-13 volts X number of batteries?)
Raise the rear end so that the tires are free to spin and not touching anything on the ground. block the front tires for testing. truck won't move then.
I've had cars that would idle at 500 rpm and still run the internal pumps. I've spun the input shaft by hand and the tranny puked out fluid. motor rpm isn't an issue now, the controller is.
What is the source of the red wire/switch assembly in that picture. Does it come from a fuse or somewhere else? does it reach a contact on the motor perhaps? a real close look shows that it has a screw connection.
I've had cars that would idle at 500 rpm and still run the internal pumps. I've spun the input shaft by hand and the tranny puked out fluid. motor rpm isn't an issue now, the controller is.
What is the source of the red wire/switch assembly in that picture. Does it come from a fuse or somewhere else? does it reach a contact on the motor perhaps? a real close look shows that it has a screw connection.
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