[rillip3]

I have an 1989 ford ranger that was converted in 1996, by professionals. When I got it the control card was bad. I had it repaired but it still doesn't run. The truck has a dash display that should show error codes, but I have no errors.
I think it is important that i learn how the auto tranny works. I am hoping you can help.
Should the motor start spinning when the ignition is on?
should it spinn when i put the shift to drive?
or when I press on the gas pedal?
let me know the info you need to find the answers,

here are a few pictures of the truck http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/

When you crank the engine, the motor that pressurizes the automatic transmission system will start turning. Reason being, if it doesn't, you can't move. A common reason not to use automatic in an EV is because if you come to a stop, the electric motor doesn't idle and keep the system going like a ICE, and you need to put a second motor to account for that, otherwise you end up stuck at a stop light pressurizing the system fore a few seconds before you can move.

 

[rillip3]

Thanks,
I went out there this morning and I tried the crank. I do hear a big contactor engage(inside the controller panel) and the big motor starts spinning, not very fast, even after holding for more than 5 seconds. The second I stop cranking, the motor stops and the contactor disengages.
does the shift need to be to a specific gear? i tried P and N, i was afraid to put it in to drive and then crank.

How does the transmission work?
does the motor need to idle to make it go, or does it just need to build the pressure and then it will hold for a few seconds?
if it needs to stay in idle, do you think I have a problem? because it will only spinn if i crank. and how fast should the motor idle?

If it only spins while you are cranking, I.e. you have the key turned all the way, then you have your ignition wired to the contactor wrong. You want to have it so the accessory position or the started position (one back from cranking) is connected to the contactor. That way, you turn the key, and it stays on. If you set it so the cranking position connects the voltage to the contactor, then there will only be power to the motor while you are holding the key in the cranking position.

However, the motor should not spin unless you press the accelerator. If it is spinning while you are not pushing on the accelerator, then you have two problems. You may need to check the settings on your potbox to make sure that you've got it correctly zero'd.

But to get to your other questions, yes, the ICE has to be idling to keep pressure in the system. As soon as the engine stops idling, pressure starts to drop and the system will stop working. As for how fast you should have the electric motor idling, I'll leave that to someone more experienced with automatics, but Mo_Bandy already discussed solutions he is familiar with.

 

[rillip3]

Thanks guys!
I am learning a lot!
The controller thinks the batteries are 75% charged, so I am charging them now. the wire in the photo

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/4961801096/

is connected to the switch next to the steering wheel, it goes all the way to the rear driver side, almost to the end. I don't know what the switch is for.
The transmission does have the cooler in the front and the fluid color, smell and level looks good. I will losen the cooler hose to see if fluid comes out as soon as I get the motor to spinn faster, right now I don't think it's spinninig more than 200rpm.

So, I am starting to think that I have some other problem.
It is strange that, if I crank, the motor spinns and if I stop it doesn't.

One thing I was afraid of trying was: put the shift to drive, then crank, and as I crank press on the gas pedal.

quote from rillip3

However, the motor should not spin unless you press the accelerator. If it is spinning while you are not pushing on the accelerator, then you have two problems. You may need to check the settings on your potbox to make sure that you've got it correctly zero'd.


I am confused, doesn't the motor need to idle at least 800rpm to keep the pressure on the transmission?

I overlooked the idling issue, I'm not used to people using automatics, sorry.

My concern here is that the car could accelerate unintentionally. In a manual car, this is a common problem with the wiring and very dangerous. With your particular setup, as long as the wheels do not move unless you hit the accelerator, I will have to give whoever converted it the benefit of the doubt. Your wheels absolutely should not be receiving any power if you are not hitting the accelerator, however.

 

[rillip3]

Well,
piotrsko was asking if I fixed my problem. The motor was only spinning when I was cranking. After spending some time following wires and studing the system, I finally found that the neutral safety switch of the transmission was connected to a miniature relay that was suppost to stay on after cranking. It is a pretty smart idea, since the truck has an auto transmission. In any case, I replaced the relay and now the motor stays on after cranking. I had some really old car batteries on it, so I only drove it a few hundred feet, now I am shopping for batteries, the toughest decision.

Thank you for helping me solve the problem.

Glad you found the problem, and thanks for posting the solution, might help someone later on with the same issue.