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I have two 2012 model Transit Connects with dead batteries I am working on. We are currently trying to get them charged up. 3 days on the small 110v charger and barely anything. I got it hooked to the 220v charger at another place now. The other van I am told leaks coolant out of the battery pack. I was wondering what can be done to replace the obsolete Johnson/Saft batteries. Something with more reserve would be great 28KWH 330v is what I think is in there now. Anyone?
 

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Used Tesla bricks from salvage.
 

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If the batteries don't come up I may drop one out and see what is wrong. I think they are worth saving. One has only 45 miles on it.
 

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Swapped the battery from a working van into the one I fixed the short on. Verified the fix now I need another battery or open this one up and find out whats going on. Won't take a charge, charger shuts off immediately on 110v and the 220v cord.
 

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Great job. I've been looking into getting one for my business. I came across a dealer, Groesbeck near Detroit, that has a dead Transit with no damage and no ideas on fixes. You seem to have the skills. But I don't want to get into fixing one. I'm looking for a fully functioning one for under $20,000.
When I have ended my search, I might want your assistance in confirming a good buy, if thats possible.
Good luck with your revival of your Transits.
 

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I have two dead, one crippled goes about 20 miles, and one that we use every day. They will be for sale when I get them going. One only has 45 miles on it still has the new car smell. Rear camera in the mirror. I put a good HV battery under it already to test it. Everything works. They have 50% marked off the 60k sticker price right now. I'm sure you guys could strike a deal if interested. I'm going to try and get one of the dead ones myself.
 

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I am a transmission tech at a Ford dealer. Ford only helps on the "glider" part. Anything AZD installed is not in our Ford service information. Learning as I go. LOL that's why I joined up here. Warranty is extinct on these jewels.
 

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Did you find the problem with the pack that you opened--was there a burn mark on that circuit board?

Was the pack holding voltage? Many times i have found that the monitoring circuit will not allow charging even though the cells are fine. The problem turns out to be some component not the cells.

Does the cooling loop run thru that pack to where each cell has contact with the loop?

i can trace out the circuits for you if you need help with the electronics.

It looks like 12 cells per module and the little daughter board above the cells has a resistor network, maybe for balancing.

192 cells total, A and B side have 96 cells in series of the VL41M, approx 2" diam. 9" tall, 3.6V 41 A-hr, no longer available.
 

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So who is selling what? I thought you fixed them and sold them? I was just looking for someone to help confirm a good buy on one of the 3 "new" (never owned) ones in Kentucky. How would you check an EV (or what program would you use to check battery & electrical) before purchase?
 

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I didn't open up every bank to look at the boards. I was getting 39.4 to 41.5 on each bank. There are 16 banks. Two BMUs made by Johnson Controls, two precharge resistors, and panasonic contactors. The coolant tubes run through each bank. When I get the Kvaser cable I can maybe troubleshoot which area of the battery pack the problem is in. I have Azures diagnostic program. We have swapped known good packs under dead vans and they charge/run fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
So who is selling what? I thought you fixed them and sold them? I was just looking for someone to help confirm a good buy on one of the 3 "new" (never owned) ones in Kentucky. How would you check an EV (or what program would you use to check battery & electrical) before purchase?
You will need Azure's diagnostic program and a cable to diagnose. OBD2 is useless. If no wrench light, no turtle light on and the led flashes green at the charge port when you plug it in. I'd say it's good to go. If you can get one for 20k jump on it. Better learn how to work on it or find a EV tech though. Sitting around is not good on lithium ion. I'm fixing these for my dealership on the side. I work for Ford during the day. They are selling them no warranty and no support from Ford AS/IS
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We bought a 2012 Azure Electric transit van with 5,000 miles on it a month ago from a Ford Dealer in Hollywood Florida for $20,000 and it ran when we test drove it. We bought it because we wanted to use it to drive our disabled son in his wheelchair to the doctor or the few miles from our Kissimmee home to Disney about once a month, and want to be environmentally responsible. They had it delivered to our home which is 200 miles North on a low boy and it ran once around the block when we got it. I parked it in front of the garage and plugged it in but it did not charge at all. The green light by the plug never came on. I checked the fuses and they all seem OK. Then I traced the wiring and the Axiomatic Wake on Charge Module was not connected. I plugged that module in and now the vehicle will neither run nor charge.

So we told the dealer we wanted them to take it back, and they gave us only the option of turning it back in and getting a trade-in which would be a gas powered 2014 Ford Transit Connect wagon. We don't really want a gas powered van, so we wonder if there is a way to get this electric car to charge and to keep it running. Might buying and installing an Axiomatic Wake on Charge Module possibly be the answer, or is that module just a symptom of a different problem? I have no technical skills or background.

Or on the other hand is it worth our effort to get an attorney and try to fight to get them to take it back for fraud. They sold us an electric vehicle that will not charge and they had to know that. There is no lemon law for used cars here in Florida.

Alternatively is there anyone who can get this vehicle running for us? Thanks for your help.
 

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We bought a 2012 Azure Electric transit van with 5,000 miles on it a month ago from a Ford Dealer in Hollywood Florida for $20,000 and it ran when we test drove it. We bought it because we wanted to use it to drive our disabled son in his wheelchair to the doctor or the few miles from our Kissimmee home to Disney about once a month, and want to be environmentally responsible. They had it delivered to our home which is 200 miles North on a low boy and it ran once around the block when we got it. I parked it in front of the garage and plugged it in but it did not charge at all. The green light by the plug never came on. I checked the fuses and they all seem OK. Then I traced the wiring and the Axiomatic Wake on Charge Module was not connected. I plugged that module in and now the vehicle will neither run nor charge.

So we told the dealer we wanted them to take it back, and they gave us only the option of turning it back in and getting a trade-in which would be a gas powered 2014 Ford Transit Connect wagon. We don't really want a gas powered van, so we wonder if there is a way to get this electric car to charge and to keep it running. Might buying and installing an Axiomatic Wake on Charge Module possibly be the answer, or is that module just a symptom of a different problem? I have no technical skills or background.

Or on the other hand is it worth our effort to get an attorney and try to fight to get them to take it back for fraud. They sold us an electric vehicle that will not charge and they had to know that. There is no lemon law for used cars here in Florida.

Alternatively is there anyone who can get this vehicle running for us? Thanks for your help.
Watch the Friday April 24 2015 episode of EVTV where they revive the EVTV E-Transit connect. The problem sounds similar to yours. You can find the program at EVTV.me or on youtube

April 24, 2015 EVTV show

My impression was that the 12V battery died and then a couple of fuses popped and this took out some components. The Wake on charge module was the problem for EVTV and in their case they bought a bunch of them from a supplier in England but the guys sort of repaired the one in the car until the ones they ordered showed up.

Good luck repairing it as you will like the vehicle if you can get it going or good luck getting the dealership to refund your money if not.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Wake on charge module will blow fuses if shorted internally. I fixed one that was giving us fits. Installed a WOC from another vehicle. Been busy with transmission work haven't had time to play with them again. I don't advertise EV work because lack of parts or support from manufacturers. Everything Ford supplied is serviceable and parts are available. I'd just buy a WOC from Jack at EVTV and try that.
 

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David Sanners has a 2012 AZD Transit Connect for sale in Indiana 812-471-3673 Under $20k with low miles.
 

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You will need Azure's diagnostic program and a cable to diagnose. OBD2 is useless. If no wrench light, no turtle light on and the led flashes green at the charge port when you plug it in. I'd say it's good to go. If you can get one for 20k jump on it. Better learn how to work on it or find a EV tech though. Sitting around is not good on lithium ion. I'm fixing these for my dealership on the side. I work for Ford during the day. They are selling them no warranty and no support from Ford AS/IS
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super glad to have found this thread on DIY. I am trying to diagnose/repair a 2011 that recently stopped taking a charge. I do NOT have diagnostic software, which would really help.... I'm wondering if you know where I can get a copy? a 'shop manual' for the Azure stuff? any reference material?

feel free to email me direct: dan at envirokarma.org
 

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Wake on charge module will blow fuses if shorted internally. I fixed one that was giving us fits. Installed a WOC from another vehicle. Been busy with transmission work haven't had time to play with them again. I don't advertise EV work because lack of parts or support from manufacturers. Everything Ford supplied is serviceable and parts are available. I'd just buy a WOC from Jack at EVTV and try that.
whats a WOK, where is it located in vehicle, and how can I test to see if this is the fault preventing charging?

has anyone found a source to buy a replacement if that's what it turns out to be?
 
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