DIY Electric Car Forums banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Currently i have 20 of these

I realize they aren't ideal and the prefered method is using the crimpable ones, but i have these in hand and would rather not have to buy new ones.

Is there a specific method to connecting these?

Should I try to sell them on ebay and buy crimpable ones?

I will probably end up using the hammer crimp method with some heatsink if i get new terminals.

Are they hard to crimp with a hammer? it seems like it would be hard to bend the heavy duty terminals

I'm using 10 12v D34 batteries if that is useful

Thanks
 
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Yes, sell them and buy the copper terminals that you can use with the hammer crimper or spend a bundle and get those that are thick and buy a proper compression crimper tool and do it right with those. I did not use the battery post style terminals. I used the terminals that bolted to the bolt that is in the middle of the battery post. Worked great.

Pete :)

http://youtu.be/byZOL3XgKgA
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
the optimas dont have bolts so ill have to fork out the money for the post ones.

I just want to make sure hammer crimping works on the post style because they are alot thicker.

Anybody have a link for a good deal on post terminals?
 
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Not only that they are a lot more expensive. I guess I could test one of mine since I won't be using them. I will test it and then cut it open to show how it looks inside too. Give me a couple days and I will have that information for you.

Pete :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,302 Posts
I just want to make sure hammer crimping works on the post style because they are alot thicker.
Anybody have a link for a good deal on post terminals?
all of the EV kit guys have good quality tinned SAE lugs available... a crimped connection will be way tighter, allow shrink wrap over the joint, and by eliminating oxygen, eliminate long-term corrosion for a better connection long term.

mmmm.... I have some 'retired' sections of cable made up with SAE lugs in various lengths for sale in the Classifieds. I don't need the sections I had between lead batteries anymore since upgrade to li. take a look to see if any of the lengths work for your layout, it would save you some time and money! http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/pre-made-2-0-battery-cable-53967.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Not only that they are a lot more expensive. I guess I could test one of mine since I won't be using them. I will test it and then cut it open to show how it looks inside too. Give me a couple days and I will have that information for you.

Pete :)
That would be great. Thanks

all of the EV kit guys have good quality tinned SAE lugs available... a crimped connection will be way tighter, allow shrink wrap over the joint, and by eliminating oxygen, eliminate long-term corrosion for a better connection long term.

mmmm.... I have some 'retired' sections of cable made up with SAE lugs in various lengths for sale in the Classifieds. I don't need the sections I had between lead batteries anymore since upgrade to li. take a look to see if any of the lengths work for your layout, it would save you some time and money! http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/pre-made-2-0-battery-cable-53967.html

That would be great. Thanks

thanks for the offer but i already commited to buying new terminals. WHat size heat shrink works best 1/2" or 3/4"

here is what im using


http://store.kta-ev.com/magna2awgpositiveterminal.aspx
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,222 Posts
Those look like Magna Lugs. EV Parts in Sequim WA sell them and for me UPS standard shipping is next day shipping without the cost. I use 1 inch sealant lined heat shrink with the 2/0 and 1/0 size lugs. I use long handled manual a hex crimper, but the price of my crimper is much more than I paid 10 year ago. I would recommend something like this to make proper hex crimps that seal up nicely with heat shrink.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
thanks. the same lugs are a $1.30 cheaper ea on the kta site so ill probably go with that since im not in a hurry to get them.

Id rather not spend $60 for a crimper unless it is MUCH better. Im still waiting to find out if the hammer crimper works well with these terminals or not.

1 inch seems like a bit overkill for heat shrink. is that what most people use?
 
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
I use 1 inch sealant lined heat shrink with the 2/0 and 1/0 size lugs.
Yes, I fully agree. Be sure it's the better sealant lined. It is wonderful stuff. I use my Mapp torch to shrink the tubing. Just don't get the flame too close. It works perfect.
 
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
I'll have you a short clip tomorrow with the hammer crimper and those type of lugs. Exactly what I have.

Pete :)

That's actually a damn good price for a hyd crimper but be sure it will do your size cable. The one shown is for smaller cables. But that is a damn good price. Heck, I may spend that kind of money even if I don't do much of that kind of crimping. I do like the hammer one for those who will be doing their first on a tight budget. Later if they decide a better way is prudent then by all means yes. If you decide to build to sell then I'd say for sure go with the professional looking crimps. As for quality of crimp, I'd say the hammer one if done right will produce a perfect tight crimp.

Pete :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,222 Posts
I didn't check the reviews for that crimper and it seems it won't do 2/0 cast copper type terminals anyway (O.D. to large.)

I've never used a hammer crimper. It sounds like Pete is going to test that out for you. Hopefully it works, those lugs get my attention when crimping with my manual hex crimper. I usually end up with one handle on the floor while pushing down on the other one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,302 Posts
thanks. the same lugs are a $1.30 cheaper ea on the kta site so ill probably go with that since im not in a hurry to get them.

Id rather not spend $60 for a crimper unless it is MUCH better. Im still waiting to find out if the hammer crimper works well with these terminals or not.

1 inch seems like a bit overkill for heat shrink. is that what most people use?
hammer crimps are fine if you hammer them tight enough... its just slower, and louder. ;) yes the large heat shrinks, and DO get the sealent stuff for best results. I ended up doing a few with a hammer, and went out and bought a $250 hex crimper. ;)

I still think you should buy my old ones and return the lugs for credit. ;)
 
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Hammer Crimp movie is loading right now. When it's up on youtube you will see the results. You get to decide on your own. No speculations here. Darn thing is taking way too long to upload. Not terrible big either. Yes its the right format and we have highspeed too. Youtube issue. Might be done by morning.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
thanks. I've found youtube is always slow when you want it fast. You may want to check out vimeo. It lets you put up hd videos WAY faster.
 
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Here is the link to the new hammer crimp flick. It is mostly showing a quick crimp using the cast copper lug using a manual hammer crimper with 2/0 welding cable. I was not sure that the hammer crimper was up to the task because of how thick it these things are and that it's a cast piece. Well, I was pleasantly wrong.

Watch and make your own decisions based on the results. One crimp was made by me and the other by a professional hydraulic crimping tool.

Link: http://youtu.be/4ZIRT9kri5w

I will be posting the link to my site later but for now this will get you there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
WOW. that's much better. Ill definatly order the harmmer crimper too. The terminals i'm getting look like they have two crimp spots, but it looks like one with the hammer will be enough.

Thanks that was really helpful
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
903 Posts
Watch and make your own decisions based on the results. One crimp was made by me and the other by a professional hydraulic crimping tool.

Link: http://youtu.be/4ZIRT9kri5w
Pete, The only thing in the comparison is that the hydraulic crimp could have been made with the wrong die for the lug/wire combination. When you put the wire into the lug it was quite loose so maybe the lug/wire combination wasn't right. Don't get me wrong, it is a great illustration of the two crimps but it may just support what I have read from some that it is easier for a novice to get a good crimp with a hammer crimper than a crimp tool because the die, lug, and wire all have to be the correct size to make a good crimp.

In any case, it is good to see that the hammer crimper will work with these heavy lugs.

FWIW, I have found when crimping 1 gauge lugs that there is a definite softness to the hammer blow for the first hits and then it is a solid thud, provided the hammer crimper is on a solid foundation that doesn't bounce around.
 
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
I have cut hydraulic crimped lugs before using the thin copper type that will bolt up to the post rather than the heavy lug type and gotten the same results. The hammer crimp creates a tighter bond inside than the hydraulic crimped lugs. All of the hydraulic crimped lugs have shown this type of look within the lug. Now saying that then there is lots of lugs out there like that and have held up just fine but I can't say that I'd trust it as much. As for having your set up set wrong, yes it could have been but my results for the hammer have been consistent and I am sure most of the others are done properly. There is always some doubt when someone brings forth evidence but without cutting them all open no one will ever know now will they. How many need to be cut to prove?

What you see is what you get. If you really want to know then make one and cut it. Bet it looks like the ones I have cut.
 
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
I am making an addition to the crimp movie. The lug I crimped with the hammer had a flaw. It actually had a small split that opened a small hole to expose the cable in front of the crimp. What needs to be done is to use some lubrication on the end of the crimp tool to allow the smooth crimp. It is actually in the instructions of the crimp tool to use lubrication so you don't pull the metal that is being stretched during the forge process. If I had used lube this would not have happened but wanted to add this to the movie. I will edit the movie information to remind users of the hammer crimper to not forget the lube. It is important. In the proper light you can actually see into the tiny hole and see the cable strands within. So use lube when you crimp as instructed by the manufacturer. I did not use lube on this crimp. I hammered away. Oooops. My bad.

The hole is the tiny dark spot in the crimp divot. Don't forget the lube. No matter what type of lug you crimp you need lube.
 

Attachments

1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top