[griffin]

i have a couple of question for any one why can answer them for me.

i orded a motor for south australia were i live was 330v 11" and was told by the small company that they had used this motor in ev's before. but they said they could not get any for 12 months i got a refund, but my problem is i have ordered the batterys from bmsbatterys i orded 1000 38120 10C C-Rate 10Ah LiFePO4 Cylindrical Battery Cells, working out i think im new so sorry if im wrong im a newB

320v 100ah c10 continues current:1000ah right?????
10 blocks of 320 in series then connecting the 10 blocks together in series???

no i dont have a motor i need to buy one i was thinking kostov 11" hv or the 9"hv, but then there is the warp11 or 9. the kostov motors will run at 240v so i will have extra batterys, so my question is should i keep the batterys at 320v and limit my soliton1 to put out 240v's to my motor and have the controller step the volts to amps giving me more torque for longer during acceleration getting to my top speed quicker or should i just give the blocks around about 30 more amps.

what will give me at better out come????

now the cars im thinking of using is my already striped kingswood i have in my back yard my 92 camry or holden vt if i have the money i would use my dads fibreglass ford cobra kit for low weight. now i know the kingswood and the vt would be too heavy, kingswod especially and the camrys not so cool so what do i use????? i was thinking getting a dual kostov or a transwarp 9 and getting another warp 9 running the kingswood or vt to pull the weight.

im 19 so yes i would like to have a massive fast car but this is what i can afford for now, so if any one can give me a hand please do iv never done a conversion before but will love the challenge so im going for it

 

[poprock]

Hi Griffin; Suggest that you go to Nuwiki link at top left of page for all beginners question. I would suggest the HJ ? as a starter, if only for the simplicity of lack of electronics ; also loads of underbonnet space where a 350 could sit and also the old Chevy type wishbone suspension. The VX? is smaller and has more wiring headaches. Good luck.

 

[Woodsmith]

I can move your thread to the motors forum for better response coverage.

 

[griffin]

thanks guys for you help moving is fine just starting so i didnt know were to post

 

[Bellistner]

"The Kingswood?! You're not taking the Kingswood! I just had the dipstick polished! Damn thing, every time I check it, it's covered in oil!"

I wouldn't use the Commodore. It's not a Euro, but it's probably got enough Computer wizadry in it that I certainly wouldn't be using it as a first-time conversion. The Cobra would be ideal, but to get it on the road will probably cost more than you can afford. The Kingswood would be good due to it's inherent simplicity, but it would have the aerodynamics of an aircraft carrier and is heavy to boot (some 1350-1450kgs).

I'd actually hit the classifieds, Trading Post, and evilbay, and find a small car with a body in good nick. There's plenty out there. You don't care about the condition of the motor, exhaust, etc, maybe not even the gearbox. As long as the body is in good nick, it's a goer. The vehicle auctions (plenty of water damaged auctions coming up in Eastern Australia, I reckon), including Government and Police disposal are a fantastic place to get good cars at dirt cheap prices (but watch yourself. It's easy to get caught up in a bidding war, and a lot of people have no idea what the cars are worth. If you've got time, I'd attend a few auctions as a spectator until you get an idea for prices, before buying).

My planned first on-road EV is my beloved Gemini. Small, light (reducing weight is the same as increasing power, to some extent), nimble, heaps of space for batteries, and stuff-all complexity. If I was looking to buy it, I wouldn't, because it's got a decent amount of rust that needs repair, but since I already own it I'm going to fix it up. And then, even though it's not being built as a performance car, I think it's going to scare a lot of ICE drivers.

 

[algea07]

what ever car you use it's going to be fast.

think of it like this, Kw = voltage X current, and you have 320 volts and 1000amps, that's 320Kw minus motor efficiency you'll still get well over 200 kw. even a heavy car will still move along with that much power.

As for range, clearly a small modern car like the cramry of the more aerodynamic commodore, will get better range but with a battery pack that big you'll be able to drive the kingswood over 100km.

as for the motor, id suggest you, get the biggest one you can fit in the car, you've spent the money on the batteries you may as well use them.

I'd suggest use the Kingswood, not because its the smarted choice but because its the funnest, and it's already stripped (i asume that means no motor/gearbox). figure out what size motor you can fit where the gearbox used to be, if you can only fit a 9" motor go dual 9" if you can fit a 11" motor go a 11"HV or a dual 11" motor.

maybe i'm optimistic and someone will shoot me down, but a motor is a motor and a 9" isn't any harder to install (electrically) then two 11". but i think with the batteries out of the way you might as well have some fun with it.

look up some ev dragsters id you haven't already "white zombie" "crazy horse"
and "bi moto BMW"

 

[griffin]

all sounds good im thinking maybe if find al old corolla ke55 or some thing with a big engine bay but light still with the batterys will it be good to keep the volts and have the controller step it into amps or add some extra batterys in and go for the 400v for two motors would only be an extra 250 cells and i think the SOLITON 1 is going to be implementing the parallel and sires swapping soon, dus the lack of rpm's limit the top speed when u dont use a transmistion

 

[algea07]

dus the lack of rpm's limit the top speed when u dont use a transmistion

the long answer is it depending on the max rpm of motor you end up using, the diff ratio of the car, and the circumference of the wheel and do some math. (max rpm x circumfrence /diff ratio = max speed... i think)

the short answer is yes. you should be able to go fairly quickly, quicker then you'll feel is safe.

most cars have a top gear ratio of pretty much 1:1 and an engine will rev at about 2-4,000 revs to go at 100km. when you take out the old transmission you'll get a ratio of 1:1 (pretty much driving around in top gear) so if the motor max rpm is grater then the engine rpm at 100km/h then your set..

most motors will be fine. but do a little looking into it. (any thing that revs above 4000rpm should be sweet)

also you might want to figure out where the motor is most efficient, they vary from about 70-90% depending on rpm, you'd want to try and make sure that when you cruse around at 80-100km/h your motor is as efficient as it can be.

 

[algea07]

i fear i may be making this sound easier then it is.

while i just looked at the corollas engine and it only has 50kw, so you are significantly increasing both power and torque, something that the car is not designed for.

putting even a dual 9" motor in this car will probably result in bits of flying metal.

you have to make this safe and legal and you wont be able to get it registered otherwise.

so take into account the max torque and Kw of a motor before you put in the car, or be prepared to do some expensive upgrades.

so ideally you wan to match the electric motor to the petrol engine.

example: the corolla has roughly 50kw and 100Nm with a first gear ratio of roughly 4:1 and a top gear ratio of 1:1 so that's about 400Nm in first gear and 50kw in last gear

so the max working load on the diff is 50kw and 400Nm, and you need to find a motor that resembles that a, transwarp 9" will get about 80kw and 400Nm and is probably you best bet.

i should point out that i am a noob too and i haven't even started my conversion.
so please wait for what i tell you to be backed up buy someone who knows what they're talking about before you act on what i say

 

[rwaudio]

all sounds good im thinking maybe if find al old corolla ke55 or some thing with a big engine bay but light still with the batterys will it be good to keep the volts and have the controller step it into amps or add some extra batterys in and go for the 400v for two motors would only be an extra 250 cells and i think the SOLITON 1 is going to be implementing the parallel and sires swapping soon, dus the lack of rpm's limit the top speed when u dont use a transmistion

Careful with the voltage, a Soliton1 can only handle 340v (and that's for a fully charged pack, not nominal voltage) So if you charge to 3.6v per cell that's 94 series cells. Charge to a lower voltage and you can squeeze in a few extra cells. 96 - 98 in series (10 parallel) would make good use of your 1000 Cells and have a few left over in case of bad cells and make a replacement 12v battery. Just don't charge higher than 340v.

If you can find a car that will handle the power I'm sure you would have fun with a Warp11HV or a pair of impulse/warp 9's.

 

[griffin]

so the SOLITON 1 isnt good for any more then 340v witch is way more them the hv11 is rated for, if i use 2 wap9's i can only have running 340v, still i would say that a zilla would be better for two motors, can u suggest a controller that would be better if i can sell the SOLITON 1, sorry just thinking out loud so would a gemini or datsun or even an old celica be a better choice???
or even use my camry as a sleeper.

 

[rwaudio]

so the SOLITON 1 isnt good for any more then 340v witch is way more them the hv11 is rated for, if i use 2 wap9's i can only have running 340v, still i would say that a zilla would be better for two motors, can u suggest a controller that would be better if i can sell the SOLITON 1, sorry just thinking out loud so would a gemini or datsun or even an old celica be a better choice???
or even use my camry as a sleeper.

Controller choice between a zilla/soliton somewhat comes down to peak current vs continuous current. The Soliton1 is 1000A continuous, Where the Zilla's are 1000A/2000A peak for the 1K /2K, continuous current is 300A/600A. Be careful when zilla hunting, there are -LV, -HV, -EHV, which refers to max battery voltage. The Zilla xK-EHV will take a bit more voltage than the Soliton but only up to the high 300's I don't think there is much out there that would take 400V (especially if you were talking about nominal pack voltage) The highest Warp Drive is rated for 360V but listed as 72-450v on evolveelectrics.com, I'm not sure if that number is accurate, and if it is derated at higher voltages, just an observation.

Unless you need more peak motor current I don't think there is a reason to move away from a Soliton1.

 

[algea07]

you've also got series parallel switching with the soliton. remember you need high current for torque and high voltage for speed, and you will rarely need both at the same time.

you'll start in series which means each motor will get 150v and 1000amps. which is the max amps for the motor.

then you change to parallel, which means each motor can get up to 300V (288V) and 500amps. which means you get maximum speed and only half torque.

it will not be as good as being to pump 288v and 2000amps into the motors but even the zilla cant do that.

think about changing gear in a car you start with max torque in first, then as you change up you get less torque but more Kw.

keep the soliton it's a vary nice controller, and they have regular software updates, and the makers (tessarect) are very active on this site.

a petrol engine will only produce max torque or Kw at a certian rpm, a dc motor will produce all its torque at 0rpm. in the time it takes someone else to drop the clutch you are already putting out max torque. an equivalent electric motor will always out perform a petrol engine.

Note: most cars only need about 15-20 kw to do 100km/h, you' don't need realistically more then 100kw max in a dc motor.

 

[Bellistner]

I don't see any reason to sell the Soliton. Even if you could get your hands on a Zilla, it's more or less equal to the Solition anyway.

Now, if you could get your hands on an old Escort...