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I've been working on a conversion for our BCS 2-wheel tractor and I'm not finished but it's going pretty well and I wanted to share, partly because it's related to some work others have documented and shared here and partly because it's something that small-scale vegetable farmers like me have been dreaming of doing for some time but it wasn't really feasible until good lithium cells were available at a reasonable price - the weight of lead made it impossible.
These machines are called 2-wheel tractors or walk-behind tractors or walking tractors because they can pull draft loads and also drive PTO-driven tools and because tools are numerous and they are interchangeable, even between brands to a certain extent.
Our tractor is an older (circa Y2K mfr) Italian machine called a BCS model 730GX11 meaning it was powered by a Honda GX340 ICE developing 11hp. It has a full oil-bath gear transmission with 3 non-synchromesh sliding gears and a reverser mechanism as well as a lockable diff. Power delivery is through a cone clutch which is bolted to keyed output shaft of Honda engine. Single clutch for traction and PTO thus they are engaged at the same time. PTO can be disengaged by lever and should be kicked out of engagement any time reverser flips to reverse travel direction with rear-mounted tool. I mention this because it's something I have to duplicate in the electric version where I'm not using the gear reverser mechanism if I can avoid it.
Anyway, instead of going on and on I'll try to make this succinct.
I found an appropriate motor (AMD DD0-4002 sepex 6.7") thanks to fate and I made an adapter plate to mount in place of Honda GX. removed clutch and used scrap clutch provided by sympathetic BCS retailer to make coupler shaft from DC motors 7/8" shaft to BCS splined metric input shaft, including dbl roller chain union in driveline to eat the poor alignment inherent in my marginal machining tools.
The motor mounts directly to the tractor frame bell housing and mounting plate also provides tabs to support a battery and controller cradle subframe which I slowly assembled out of various bit of scrap metal on hand. The goal was to keep it tight and tidy and I'm happy with the results. Airflow has to be managed so there are some partitions made from tractor inner tube that cause the motor to only draw in at the front and then expel air up under controller's aluminium mounting plate.
The controller is a second-hand Curtis 1243 that seems well-suited to the task at 300A 24V peak.
Batteries are 6S 24V modules from Chevy Volt battery packaged in waterproof ammo boxes, each with their own voltmeter, low voltage buzzer, ANL fuse and balance cable for periodic balancing. They're a very tight fit in the PA19 ammo boxes and it takes some time to assemble one but it's a pretty solid little 30 pound kWh when you're done so I'm happy with them.
Batteries are wired in parallel and system runs at 24V so batteries can be used singly or as a pair which can prove quite handy. We currently only have two tools for our BCS - a rototiller which we're trying to use less, and a rotary harrow that's less hard on soil structure. The rotary harrow is more than 30lbs heavier than the rototiller so the 2nd battery helps to rebalance the machine whereas for the rototiller a single battery balances it better. My goal is to have 4 or 5 of these "power brick" batteries on the farm, shared between a set of 24V tools including the rototiller, pallet jigger, earth auger and others. There should always be one or two charged and waiting if you need to do a big job and run down more than one or two batteries.
There are some videos of the early process and a first test run on YouTube if you search for my name "Reid Allaway". More complete photo album on my Facebook page because I haven't yet found a better place to document.
I hope these ideas help someone and I'd be really interested to know if others have or are planning to undertake such a project.
I'll post new pics when I finish the controls and top cowl/cover.
Thanks to everyone here at DIYelectriccar for inspiring and encouraging each other. I might not be tackling projects like this if I didn't know the community of enthusiasts was there to support me if I needed it.
~ reid Allaway
Ferme Coopérative Tourne-Sol
les Cèdres, QC
These machines are called 2-wheel tractors or walk-behind tractors or walking tractors because they can pull draft loads and also drive PTO-driven tools and because tools are numerous and they are interchangeable, even between brands to a certain extent.
Our tractor is an older (circa Y2K mfr) Italian machine called a BCS model 730GX11 meaning it was powered by a Honda GX340 ICE developing 11hp. It has a full oil-bath gear transmission with 3 non-synchromesh sliding gears and a reverser mechanism as well as a lockable diff. Power delivery is through a cone clutch which is bolted to keyed output shaft of Honda engine. Single clutch for traction and PTO thus they are engaged at the same time. PTO can be disengaged by lever and should be kicked out of engagement any time reverser flips to reverse travel direction with rear-mounted tool. I mention this because it's something I have to duplicate in the electric version where I'm not using the gear reverser mechanism if I can avoid it.
Anyway, instead of going on and on I'll try to make this succinct.
I found an appropriate motor (AMD DD0-4002 sepex 6.7") thanks to fate and I made an adapter plate to mount in place of Honda GX. removed clutch and used scrap clutch provided by sympathetic BCS retailer to make coupler shaft from DC motors 7/8" shaft to BCS splined metric input shaft, including dbl roller chain union in driveline to eat the poor alignment inherent in my marginal machining tools.
The motor mounts directly to the tractor frame bell housing and mounting plate also provides tabs to support a battery and controller cradle subframe which I slowly assembled out of various bit of scrap metal on hand. The goal was to keep it tight and tidy and I'm happy with the results. Airflow has to be managed so there are some partitions made from tractor inner tube that cause the motor to only draw in at the front and then expel air up under controller's aluminium mounting plate.
The controller is a second-hand Curtis 1243 that seems well-suited to the task at 300A 24V peak.
Batteries are 6S 24V modules from Chevy Volt battery packaged in waterproof ammo boxes, each with their own voltmeter, low voltage buzzer, ANL fuse and balance cable for periodic balancing. They're a very tight fit in the PA19 ammo boxes and it takes some time to assemble one but it's a pretty solid little 30 pound kWh when you're done so I'm happy with them.
Batteries are wired in parallel and system runs at 24V so batteries can be used singly or as a pair which can prove quite handy. We currently only have two tools for our BCS - a rototiller which we're trying to use less, and a rotary harrow that's less hard on soil structure. The rotary harrow is more than 30lbs heavier than the rototiller so the 2nd battery helps to rebalance the machine whereas for the rototiller a single battery balances it better. My goal is to have 4 or 5 of these "power brick" batteries on the farm, shared between a set of 24V tools including the rototiller, pallet jigger, earth auger and others. There should always be one or two charged and waiting if you need to do a big job and run down more than one or two batteries.
There are some videos of the early process and a first test run on YouTube if you search for my name "Reid Allaway". More complete photo album on my Facebook page because I haven't yet found a better place to document.
I hope these ideas help someone and I'd be really interested to know if others have or are planning to undertake such a project.
I'll post new pics when I finish the controls and top cowl/cover.
Thanks to everyone here at DIYelectriccar for inspiring and encouraging each other. I might not be tackling projects like this if I didn't know the community of enthusiasts was there to support me if I needed it.
~ reid Allaway
Ferme Coopérative Tourne-Sol
les Cèdres, QC
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