Blew pack fuses on ignition. Curtis 1238se controller and AC-50 motor help
Sort of a huge disappointment, but after wiring up my whole conversion verifying the wiring and turning the ignition I blew the pack fuses and my worry is that I fried the controller.
I wired up my system matching the attached EV West schematic, I've got the AC-50 motor with the 1238SE-7971 controller.
I've got 5 Tesla Modules wired in series, they're divided into three battery boxes, two boxes each with two modules wired in series with those two boxes each containing one 150 V 600 amp fuse on the negative lead coming out of the box. Then the final battery has its own 150 V 600 amp fuse on the negative line, which is the pack most negative lead.
When I turned the ignition for the first time I heard a big click. I thought this was the contactor, but discovered the controller didn't light up, or turn on. I discovered that the fuse between the negative most battery terminal and the shunt had blown. I wasn't sure if it was perhaps a bad fuse, or what, so I thought I could perhaps test to see if it was by bypassing that last fuse and try again without touching the throttle or anything. I did that, and ended up blowing the two other fuses apparently?
Definitely a bit unsettling, as I checked all my HV wiring against the schematic. I measured resistance of the main contactor after the event (with batteries disconnected) and it looks like the contactor is still open so I'd imagine that wasn't the issue? I also checked resistance across B+ and B- on the Curtis controller and there was no resistance, but I'm not sure there is supposed to be. I checked to make sure that my KSI was still functioning correctly and it seems to be.
Where/what would you start to diagnose next? My fear is that I not only fried three $100 fuses but also a $2k+ controller.
![Product Schematic Font Rectangle Parallel]()
I wired up my system matching the attached EV West schematic, I've got the AC-50 motor with the 1238SE-7971 controller.
I've got 5 Tesla Modules wired in series, they're divided into three battery boxes, two boxes each with two modules wired in series with those two boxes each containing one 150 V 600 amp fuse on the negative lead coming out of the box. Then the final battery has its own 150 V 600 amp fuse on the negative line, which is the pack most negative lead.
When I turned the ignition for the first time I heard a big click. I thought this was the contactor, but discovered the controller didn't light up, or turn on. I discovered that the fuse between the negative most battery terminal and the shunt had blown. I wasn't sure if it was perhaps a bad fuse, or what, so I thought I could perhaps test to see if it was by bypassing that last fuse and try again without touching the throttle or anything. I did that, and ended up blowing the two other fuses apparently?
Definitely a bit unsettling, as I checked all my HV wiring against the schematic. I measured resistance of the main contactor after the event (with batteries disconnected) and it looks like the contactor is still open so I'd imagine that wasn't the issue? I also checked resistance across B+ and B- on the Curtis controller and there was no resistance, but I'm not sure there is supposed to be. I checked to make sure that my KSI was still functioning correctly and it seems to be.
Where/what would you start to diagnose next? My fear is that I not only fried three $100 fuses but also a $2k+ controller.
