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· Registered
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·

I am doing a BMW 120i conversion using a ZEVA MC1000 controller. Just wondering if I can keep using the existing throttle. The controller supports HEPA.

My question is how to wire it up? Does the 120i even have a HEPA throttle?

See below for the wiring colours on the existing pedal; (Also attached images)

1 Yellow
1 Yellow/Green
1 Brown
1 Brown
1 White/Yellow
1 White

The controller throttle connector has four wires (Ground, 5v+, Throttle A, and Throttle B)

The MC1000C controller supports a variety of different throttle types, which may be selected via
CAN bus interface. (Controller expects Type 1 throttle by default.)
• Type 1, 0-5V + Enable: Any throttle device which outputs a 0-5V level representing 0-100%
throttle may be used. Non-contact Hall Effect types are the best option due to their reliability and
virtually unlimited lifespan. They should have three wires to connect to Gnd, 5V and Throttle
A (0-5V level). The Throttle B pin should be connected to 5V through the enable switch on the
potbox (COM and NC terminals) for redundant safety in case of hall sensor fault.

• Type 2, 0-5KΩ + Enable: Although not considered a great option due to their tendency to wear
out and become unreliable over time, legacy 2-wire resistive 0-5KΩ potboxes (such as the Curtis
PB-6) can be used. The two throttle wires connect to Throttle A and 5V (either polarity). The
enable switch should be wired between 5V and Throttle B, using the COM and NC terminals.

• Type 3, Hall Effect Pedal Assembly (HEPA): HEPA pedals are becoming the industry standard
for throttle devices in vehicles as they offer high reliability and safety through the use of dual
(redundant) hall effect sensors. A variety of different HEPA pedals are available, typically having
6 wires for two independent 3-wire hall effect type throttles. The MC1000C was designed to
work with pedals providing dual analog outputs of around 0.7V–3.5V and 1.4V–4.2V. Use the
Gnd and 5V pins on Plug 2 to provide power to both sensors. The 0.7-3.5V signal connects to
Throttle A and the 1.4V-4.2V signal to Throttle B. With a HEPA throttle, the controller can detect
a throttle fault if any four of the wires are disconnected, or if either of the throttle sensors are

How would I go about finding what wire does?



· Registered
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
OK so I figured it out.

Connect both the yellows together (5v+)

Connect both the browns together (Ground)

The pure white cable gives out 0.7v - 4v

The white/yellow gives out 0.4 - 2v

Tested with a multi meter - hope it may help anyone else with an e87 BMW or similar.


· Registered
217 Posts
Good to Know.

Do you have a side picture of pedal assembly showing mounting holes.

One of those might suit my application, Ive got a PB6 pot box to adapt to my LandRover pedal arm but I think the BMW style pedal might also work with my Curtis 1239 controller, looks like a good solution.

· Registered
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yeah sure.

The car is finished now - just waiting on DoT to give me the modification permit so I can get in licensed.

Basically it's a direct drive conversion with 28 CALBS in the front and 12 where the fuel tank was, giving it about 140volts when fully charged.

The controller is a Zeva MC1000 with a Netgain 9" . It's got a Zeva BMS monitor which is handy when keeping an eye on the controller temp.

I actually ended up changing the throttle from the BMW stock throttle to a 2009 Prius HEPA throttle which was designed to work with this specific controller.

It's a really smooth ride, I recently changed the rear differential from a 3.38 ratio (stock manual) to a 3.91 ratio (e90 auto) to give it better pick up. It has made a big difference. If you're doing a direct drive conversion you really need to check what diff ratio the car has and your options.
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