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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Proof of life:
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I had the motor spinning forward & reverse. Once started it did not stop. When the power was removed from the Resolve Controller it all stopped. Very happy & moving to the next step of mounting everything in the car.
 

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I am installing a 2015 leaf into an antique Chris craft. I had the following problems and solutions:
  • HV interlock error, checked the orange plugs and found them okay, the problem was the inverter to motor fasten point... that original plastic cover needs to be installed. it seems to have a long plastic straw that is an interlock
  • multiple hv communication codes. connecting and soldering all the body grounds together fixed it.( I measured 5 ohms between some of the case and body grounds before fixing this, now when working it is closer to zero or the limit of my multimeter)
  • note I am direct driving the prop shaft and my next issue is reversing the spin.
  • also note...I abandoned the "openinverter version 3 inverterboard because I wanted to keep the nissan charging system.
  • here is a link
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Update:

My machine shop has created a timber template for the connector between the Leaf motor and BMW gearbox. See image of the mockup:
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Time for some more test fitting. The good news is that with the gearbox/ motor adaptor there is no clash with the firewall.
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The iBooster from the Honda CRV fits nicely - or in other words very snugly. The iBooster is the same as Tesla brake booster. Time for a bracket to be fabricated.
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I also ordered a charger but made the mistake of ordering a Type 2 plug rather than Type 1. 🙁
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Update:

The Resolve Controller is now working as the battery, motor, inverter and charge controller. Very happy to have this running. Well done Isak at Resolve controller — Resolve-EV

I was able to charge the battery today after my new portable Type 1 charger arrived. I also connected the cooling system with the original Leaf water pump and BMW radiator.

Finally, LeafSpy was also able to connect again.

Some great progress.

Nest steps are:
  • gearbox/motor adaptor & coupling (still being manufactured)
  • Engine mounts once the final motor location is confirmed
  • Respray the engine bay
  • iBooster brake & new hydraulic lines

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Nice. Is the pump being controller by the original computer? I never could get mine to spin.
@Tremelune - I followed the instructions that Isak put together:

I was confused at the start as the pump did not start immediately when it had 12V. As per the documentation from Isak, there is something like a 10-second delay before the pump starts.

The Nissan Leaf pump does not need any computer control - just power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Update - there has been lots happening:

- Engine bay respray
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- Adaptor plate designed and constructed. Note that I am using half of the original gearbox from the Leaf.
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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
- iBooster brake fitted (still need hydraulic lines) - this is from a Honda CRV - but same as from Tesla. This means I don't need the vacuum boosters anymore. This was a significant challenge because I had to line up the brake pushrod, avoid the steering column and mount it to the firewall. I used 16 mm Aluminium which had been water cut.
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- Suspension reconditioned - may as well do it now!!!
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- Preliminary engine mounts - I am trying to use the original mount plus the a new 16 mm AL plate as shown.
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That fits amazingly well. Very cool that you can keep the full power stack intact, and you can probably get some battery up front, too! This car is gonna fly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
@Tremelune I am not sure on the clearance at the top of the charger to the bonnet. As you have previously suggested I could make a new lid & cut down on the honeycomb.
 

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I own a BMW 2002 and I leased a 2017 Leaf.
My approach would be mid engine (trunk/rear seat) with battery and controllers forward.
Keep on this forum did a space limited leaf front wheel drive train in an old Mini Cooper.
You are at the point where you can still consider these changes. The BMW trans, drive shaft, diff, rear axles are not the strongest bits nor do they add anything except complexity, weight and problems for battery placement. Just my opinion and either way I applaud your efforts.
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There are 2 BMW 3.0 Coupe projects I have seen where a Tesla based rear sub frame and motor assembly were fabricated with forward mounted batteries, charger and controller. 50/50 weight distribution and simplicity (least number of parts) in a 2002 is the key to a great end product you can drive anywhere including the track. I love your creative thinking and open minded approach.
Thanks for letting me borrow your thread.
 

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HI Matthew,

Nice project you have, very clean. I to have a 1973 2002 on going project, bit of start -stop project ( mainly stop ).

Currently doing what you are, fitting a leaf motor to the current gearbox, The Resolve google link brought me to your page.

I went ahead and bought the Thunderstruck Vcu some time ago as that was all that was available then. Very impressed with the Resolve controller as a all one solution.

Id like to see how to making up the motor mounts as Im stuck there at the moment, there doesn't seem much space over the original mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
@zippy500 great to see someone else doing a 2002 & leaf conversion. I am very happy that the Resolve controller came onto the market as I was not that keen on the Thunderstruck VCU.

I had a plan for engine mounts however my automotive engineer (who is required to sign-off the build) did not like it. I am working on my plan B.

My new plan (B) is an Aluminium C Channel beam bolted across the front of the motor & supports down to a new steel member which is fitted between the chassis and the engine/ suspension subframe.

See concept images below. Note the first image is upside down & will change slightly.
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Does the engineer have to pass your design before to can make it up ?

I did consider something similar to what you are thinking. I just thought that it would a lot of weight at just one end, the gearbox mount isn't very substantial, thought it might strain in the middle on the adapter plate. I am more thinking to try if possible, to make some mounts centre of the motor.

How does your motor coolant inlets line up. mine look dangerously close the original motor mount that sticks up, I am half tempted to cut the original mount down.

I did the same with using half leaf gearbox as a adaptor and made a 20mm ali plate to mount the two together.

have you made your coupler ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
The engineer does not need to approve the design before I proceed - but if he does not like what I have done then I need to change it.

The engineer was much more concerned about torque than the weight of the motor. This is why the mounting points need to be nearer the body. This is because of the improved torque over the ICE.

I did actually cut out the original LHS engine mount because of the cooling pipes. I figured I could not use it anyway so may as well get rid of it. My first plan was to enable a return to ICE but I have gone too far now. My priority is now to make it look as elegant as possible.

I looked at various coupler options. I ruled out mating the old Leaf spline with the BMW clutch because I could not get a clutch with a plate on it.

The coupling in the photo below looks great. It was however expensive (nearly 1200 AUD). It has a bearing which goes into the half leaf gearbox.

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