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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I'm starting a new project. I've been wanting to do an BMW series 5 e39 conversion for several years now. I was giving up of this car because they are almost in very bad condition because of rust and they are not good care . I was looking for cupe e46 or e46 sedan , but they are not so good quality and suspension ar also weak. They are also expencive.
Last week I found perfect car for my conversion . It is BMW 520i e39 97 year. It is in very good condition , no rust at all . Inside is almost new. It has some parts to be replaced but nothing serious. He has roof window, wich was priority and collor is also that I like. One month ago I bought Tesla battery from S 85 , 9 modules . That's 47kwh power.
I have some experience in car conversion. Two years ago I converted an old Opel Kadett.
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/opel-kadett-conversion-matija-167650.html
And it very good and reliable conversion, Now it has about 18000 km and still going with no problems .

Now I'm looking for powertrain... These days it is working on hacking Tesla drive train, nissan leaf drive train. But they are working on 400 V and I'm scare to play with this high voltage. Don't know if this will working reliable...
For instance if I took Tesladrivetrain , I'll put it on the car gearbox with cluch. There is no room on the car for complete tesla motor+inverter+diferential on the car because of car rear axle carrier...
Don't know if is possible to separate tesla motor and inverter from original diferential..
Other easiest way is to put some plug and play motor , like warp 9 and Solitron class motor.. the woltage will be about 220V. This is ok for me..
I will see what will hapend in few months.
Some suggestions are welcome :)











 

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That's a very nice donor car. I'm thinking about my second conversion and have been looking at the BMW 5 series as a donor. I'll be following your thread and am looking forward to see your progress!
 

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Just a wee comment
"Scared of 400v" - 150v DC will kill you dead - and less than that is no use for a car

Why is 400v scarier than 150v?? - it won't make you "deader"
 

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Just a wee comment
"Scared of 400v" - 150v DC will kill you dead - and less than that is no use for a car

Why is 400v scarier than 150v?? - it won't make you "deader"
150-200 V DC wont kill you currently, but sure is not good for health.
Ill see about voltage, depend of motor and controller
 

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That's a very nice donor car. I'm thinking about my second conversion and have been looking at the BMW 5 series as a donor. I'll be following your thread and am looking forward to see your progress!
Tnx :) , I'm glad you like this car :)
This car was my boy's dream :)
 

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Why is 400v scarier than 150v?? - it won't make you "deader"
There is the worry that insulation won't hold up, and that this could start a fire or at least ruined cables, smelly mess, etc. Not to mention the soiled undergarments :eek:

But under 600 VDC isn't too bad, since a lot of cable, fuses etc. can be found with 600 VDC ratings. Over that, it gets harder.

Speaking as one who helped convert a 720 V Miata/MX-5. In the end, we had no problems from flashovers or the like. However it did cost a bit in extra contactors and space to house them, to isolate each battery segment to under 120 V. That was our design decision, not a legal requirement.
 

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Some stuff on car didn't work. Like rear window, front door didnt want to lock it . I replaced both modules on front doors , now is all working . In the meentime , I bought black cotton seats and door panels so the car is going to black. Instead leather in very bad condition. I cleaned the sats and now are like new.









 

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First I wanted to put warp 11 on direct drive. But I change my mine and I will put it on the gearbox. I think motor will last longer and starts won't be with high Amperage. And it is safer with clutch. Car will be about 1.6-1.7 t .
I'm not sure about that , so I want to hear your opinion. I didn't find controller yet.
TNX
 

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I've been driving an electric E39 for over 3 years now. Great car. Use the gearbox. Forget the clutch.
 

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Tnx my friend, yestrday i watched your videos whole day. Im on the wacation and i took the time. So I decided also that way. Do you still have code signal of cranckshaft for arduino? Maybe will works on PFL model on M52 motor.
Tnx a lot ! :)
 

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I purchase another gearbox from 2.8 engine with only 120 000 km , I bought electrical stering pump and get some visual accessories , M sterring wheel . It wont past on PFL models but with some adaptation will fit :)





 

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Hello, I wasn't active for some time because of other obligations , and didn't have money to work on the car. Now is in progress.
I Bough M fenders and car is going to paintshop in two months. Is really difficult by us to find some good paintshop to paint whole car.





















 

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A lot nicer than my milling machine special:) Makes me want to do another E39.
 

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Tnx guys :)

It's a really nice car :) . I love it . :)

Distance plate is made from three 1 cm plate. First one is on the gearbox and is fixed with two pins which will allign it always in center. Second two plates are bolted fixed on the motor. Between those two parts it has enough room for floating (about 1-2 mm) arround center.
My friend will make adapter for mounting flywheel on the axes.
When that will be done, I will put it together and spin motor on 12V to allign all in center, bolting all nuts and welding all three plates together to make one peace . I think this is good metod.

I wanted to make it without clutch, as Damien recommended, but I changed my mind because of safety reasons and faster shifting. I also fill more comfortable with clutch then without.
 

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Tnx guys :)

It's a really nice car :) . I love it . :)

Distance plate is made from three 1 cm plate. First one is on the gearbox and is fixed with two pins which will allign it always in center. Second two plates are bolted fixed on the motor. Between those two parts it has enough room for floating (about 1-2 mm) arround center.
My friend will make adapter for mounting flywheel on the axes.
When that will be done, I will put it together and spin motor on 12V to allign all in center, bolting all nuts and welding all three plates together to make one peace . I think this is good metod.

I wanted to make it without clutch, as Damien recommended, but I changed my mind because of safety reasons and faster shifting. I also fill more comfortable with clutch then without.
I am a fan of everything Damien does and vividly follow all his tube videos but me I like a clutch. It means less shock to the gears which were not ever designed for direct drive and more allowance for a less perfect fit. I think.. I could be wrong. Either way horse for courses as they say.
 

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When that will be done, I will put it together and spin motor on 12V to allign all in center, bolting all nuts and welding all three plates together to make one peace . I think this is good metod.
Your aligning technique sounds very much like the one used in this build, post 15: https://www.diyelectriccar.com/foru...7137p2.html?highlight=motor+alignment+problem

Unfortunately, by post 66 they had destroyed a transmission and replaced their adapter plate with a commercial one with well located alignment dowels from CanEV. It's doubtful if this technique is sufficient to provide proper alignment of the electric motor shaft and the transmission input shaft on a consistent basis. The typical maximum shaft axes misalignment limit as listed for most ICE set-ups is 0.005"(~0.13mm). To give some perspective, the thickness of ordinary paper is ~0.004"(0.10mm).

It seems that it would be very difficult to achieve this degree of alignment with your technique. I know Damian seems to have gotten away with it in his car. Judging by this and some of his electronic antics, he must be living a charmed life.
 
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