[dtbaker]

yes on stainless... with both AL and CU on terminals the stainless with noalox is a very good idea.

people seem to get by fine with the M8 bolts and lock washers usually, but I ordered a box of 30mm long set screws, nuts, and start washers because I kinda want to be sure I am getting full engagement all the way to the bottom of the blind hole.

I'll have a set of regular bolts/washers available in a couple days if you are interested to buy, let me know. I could price match a regular retailer and ship'em to you.

 

[dtbaker]

And another question: I just realized that you probably are using threaded rod as a battery post, and then a nut on top with a lock washer; is that correct?

corbin

this is essentially what I am doing, except not just threaded rod. Set screws are socket-head, and can be tighened down all the way into that blind hole. the regular bolts have more or less engagement depending on stack height of stuff.... which can vary for the ones you put regular (thicker) cable lugs on, or if the holes are not all tapped the same depth. Going into soft stuff like AL and CU, I worry about over-torque pulling the threads out if not engaged enough.

Like I said, I will have a set of regular bolts and lockwashers available, or you can order your own stuff from somewhere like http://www.boltdepot.com

Shipping is a little high, but it comes out to about what you'd pay local retail, if your local people don't have boxes of stainless metric stuff.....

 

[dtbaker]

recommended torque (per thundersky) is 20-22N-m, which is about 15-16 ft-#...

The place I bought hardware didn't have belville washers, so I went external star. I will probably put a drop of loctite on set screws, and use paint-pen on set/nut after final assy for quick visual inspections.

Next time around I may skip the factory multi-strip bus bars, and source some braided bus bars. They will probably cost a little more, but not tons would be my guess. My instincts tell me that terminals that are jiggling around between stacks of cells and moving a little with thermal expansion would do better with more compliant connections.

 

[dtbaker]

Like this? I didn't like those copper straps that come with TS cells either.

what did the price work out to in USD for those braided bus bars from AU? I was poking around a couple weeks ago, and I remember finding some for about $7.50 USD, but I had already bought all my TS straps....

 

[dtbaker]

So, as a follow up, I'll probably buy a box of M8 x 1.25 SS socket set screw bolts, 30mm length.

yes... I ordered 30mm long, and this gives about an extra 1/4" length of engagement possible compared to stock bolts... should ensure that they can be cranked down all the way to the bottom of the blind holes and have enough threads to prevent pull-out in the soft terminals.

I also though the nord-locks looked great, but way too expensive. A little lock-tite, proper torque, and paint pen on top for inspection ought to do it...

 

[dtbaker]

So are the TS terminals still steel or something else now? I laughed the other day when I saw someone had a shipment of them arrive with steel terminals and said they already had rust on them.

I don't think any of the terminals are or were steel... one side is copper, other is aluminum. Hence the need for SS bolts and noalox or other anti-oxidant recommended. Also highly recommended to lightly sand off oxidation, and apply the noalox just before final assy.