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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all! Another member here suggested I should post a build thread here!
I bought this car about a year ago, for the purpose of converting it to an EV. It's a 1949 Cadillac 60 Special. It was "running and driving" when I bought it, at least good enough to pull it out of the shop and line it up with the tow truck! Pretty solid, no rust, and complete as far as trim is concerned, so I think it's a good overall start to the project. It also has a decent chassis, which is part of the reason I chose this model, there's plenty of room for activities underneath.

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I've made a bit more progress since I bought it, I'll make some follow-up posts with progress!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I am trying to make this build "high tech" so to speak, i.e. I'll use 3D scanning and CAD more than is necessary.

One of the first steps was to 3D scan the underside for a first check to see what kind of room I have under there, so that I know what I could use for batteries/motors.
My goal here is to put the batteries where the chassis goes, between the wheels, like in a modern EV for weight distribution.

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That's extremely difficult with that era's x-frames, unless you plan to replace the frame with a custom built one...
Yes, the plan is to replace the entire frame.

I originally wanted to do a '59 or '60 Cadillac, but the X-frame in those is worse, in that the rear footwells sink below the top of the frame in the middle of the X. With this one at least the entire floor is up above (for the most part) the top of the frame. So at least I'll be able to keep the floor original and not compromise that too much.

I haven't gotten to a point yet to where I have all the parts mocked up where they need to go, so it's not clear how much, if any, cutting is required.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Right around August of last year, I purchased the donor car for the swap. I bought a 2019 Tesla Model 3 Long Range AWD from Copart. I was hoping it might have the 980 motor, but I didn't luck out, I have the 990. Either way, the plan is to use the entire battery pack and both motors for the swap.
Here's what the car looked like the day I got it:
Car Wheel Tire Vehicle registration plate Vehicle

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I spent the rest of last year basically tearing down the Tesla and parting it out. It's been surprisingly good, apparently Tesla parts are in high demand!
Here's what the car looked like at the end of 2022:
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Getting closer to present time with the updates here. Initially, I was thinking about maybe reusing the entire rear subframe and suspension components from the Model 3, so I set about 3D scanning and reverse engineering it.

I've scanned the rear subframe separately, motor and subframe together, and also every suspension link separately. Only things that were not modeled were the axle shafts and springs. After that, they were individually reverse engineered and put together in an assembly that allows you to articulate the suspension. This would be useful to check for fit in the car, fitment of wheels, etc...
Unfortunately, right about when this was done, I decided I wouldn't be using the entire Tesla Model 3 suspension in my project for a few reasons, track width being the main one, and also cost. I sold the subframe and the good suspension parts for a good amount.

Here's a couple of pictures of the 3D scans, and the end result. Also click on the thumbnail for a gif of the suspension flex.

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Thank you! I saw your build thread, did you figure out your drive unit separation?
I decided to change the frame to keep the drive intact. the separation involves a lot of electrical knowledge I do not have. physically separating it is the easy part. all of the worries of the wire routing and shielding left me no desire to deal with that along with all the other challenges of building an EV. It is much better to avoid separating the drive if at all possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have a couple of updates, not that many. I started working on the rear suspension, I posted a new thread here:

I dismounted and scanned the front motor as well.
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Motor itself is intact, but I did have some damage around the area. Oil pump looks pretty toast, the wiring harness around the motor is damaged (I can see metal wires), and I also broke a plastic coolant inlet on the back driver side of the motor. The coolant inlet on the heat exchanger is also bent (visible in the scan there), so I might have to source one of those as well.
 
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