The run from the back of the Jeep to the front will be about 8-10 feet.It looks like a good solution; probably couldn't measure any significant resistance increase unless the crimp wasn't done well.
What is the overall length of the 2/0 that would be used x (0.000080 Ohms per foot) --kinda hard to measure resistance that low.
In my book the Green One is the expert on crimping, Hammer Time ; couldn't find his dissection pictures but those are must see.
| Brand | Thomas & Betts |
| Color code | Black |
| Conductor Size | 2/0 |
| Conductor Type | Copper |
| Length | 2.13 |
| Material | Copper |
| Outside Diameter | 0.59 |
| Specifications | Tin Plated Finish |
| Type | 2-Way Long Barrel |
| Voltage Rating | 600 |
....and just so I'm clear, you're saying that a proper butt joint, will be able to transmit the full electrical load as if it was not a cut / butt joint - right?It looks like a good solution; probably couldn't measure any significant resistance increase unless the crimp wasn't done well.
What is the overall length of the 2/0 that would be used x (0.000080 Ohms per foot) --kinda hard to measure resistance that low.
In my book the Green One is the expert on crimping, Hammer Time ; couldn't find his dissection pictures but those are must see.
That was super stupid of me - sorry for being so obtuse - THANK YOU for that link.That is a link to one of his posts with a video, from there you can search all of his posts. run your mouse over it should be underlined, click it and go.
Orange is the standard color to identify HV cables on EVs.
The losses due to a good crimp will be very small and below your level to detect unless you have some expensive equipment.
What is the max or peak current that you expect or want to carry?
You may need some extra measures to increase the insulation of the crimped joint; tape and heat shrink wouldn't cut it. Look for the industrial solutions.
Just walked around his videos, very interesting. For a relatively new sector, after watching some of his stuff, it amazes me how far the DIY EV market and makers have come.That is a link to one of his posts with a video, from there you can search all of his posts. run your mouse over it should be underlined, click it and go.
Orange is the standard color to identify HV cables on EVs.
The losses due to a good crimp will be very small and below your level to detect unless you have some expensive equipment.
What is the max or peak current that you expect or want to carry?
You may need some extra measures to increase the insulation of the crimped joint; tape and heat shrink wouldn't cut it. Look for the industrial solutions.
Sorry about that.You didn't mention it was shielded cable initially; i don't know why you omitted that detail.
If these are for your motor wiring (3-phase) then just use a solid run without a crimp; the break in the shield will negate using a shield.
If these are for the + and - of the HV run from the pack then crimp might be okay, but i don't understand about using a shield on a single wire in a pair.
Roger roger - I can do that, well, I have tools that if properly used, I can easily do that.There is always gonna be a loss in a splice or connection. It comes with the ability to make that connection. A good one doesn't make much loss, but if it is really that important then just do a solid run of wire instead.
Thanks for sharing that.The images are at the end of the video. But here is a screen shot. Hammer vs hydraulic crimp. I will have to say that those thick connectors are difficult to hammer crimp because you can tear them. If you look closely at the part I crimped with the hammer you will see a small hole appeared and that would allow moisture and water if not properly sealed. So to avoid that you need to be sure to lubricate the tip of the crimper before crimping and be sure you don't tear them. They are thick but you can see the results. Some have commented on the hydraulic crimp as being a poor example but it was what someone else had done and used on their conversion that I fixed. View attachment 135394
The more I buy and examine Tesla stuff to understand and innovate my project, the more I discover them is some smart fellas'.Interesting discussion. Although is is intuitive to assume a lug connection you can swing across a pit of alligators on is better than one that is (just enough) electrical connection. My understanding is that stranded wire has higher ampacity than a solid copper crossection, which is what you are doing when you crimp the hell out of a stranded wire into a solid copper wad at both ends of a butted connection. So maybe the goal is to size your butt connector to allow for some interlacing of the strands inside the butt and then just crimp over the area of this interlacing. Also, to back up to ensure more "mental insurance" consider the need to be concerned at all about this issue and look up the time to heat up under actual intended load. Here is a website/calculator that will tell you how long it will take to max the insulation rating for your wire. If you are using 00 wire and it says 350A constant load capacity, then why does Tesla use this size wire and hook it up to a motor that can see 1300-1500A for short durations. Using the website below you can play with figures that you get from measuring the resistance of your butt connection vs a un-butted length of wire.
Short-Time Current Rating of Conductor - Time Calculation
Webpage calculator to calculate the Short-Time Current Rating of Conductorwww.nepsi.com
I think part of the problem, and no insult intended, is the crimper, the 'you' in this.I would say so people can see the difference and leave out the small. You did see a difference and a pretty substantial one in my image. Mine hammer crimp is also not a solid block of metal either. If you look you can see the wires but more tightly bound to help with vibration issues. With the crimped one when I removed them from the vehicle there were about 5 of them that just fell apart with no real tugging so the crimp was quite poor. Interesting that a hydraulic crimp is so crappy. Not to say all hydraulic crimps are crappy. Just showing a comparison between two different ways. I'll do a video and revisit this. I won't bother doing another hammer as you can already see what it does. I will however use my hydraulic crimper and cut it for you to compare. Give me a few days and I'll post when it's ready to view.
Would you be so kind as to send a quick picture of what you're thinking please.a tubing cutters reamer should work not sure if it would be enough but should help by directing all the wire strands into the connector.
Later floyd
