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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Interesting discussion. Although is is intuitive to assume a lug connection you can swing across a pit of alligators on is better than one that is (just enough) electrical connection. My understanding is that stranded wire has higher ampacity than a solid copper crossection, which is what you are doing when you crimp the hell out of a stranded wire into a solid copper wad at both ends of a butted connection. So maybe the goal is to size your butt connector to allow for some interlacing of the strands inside the butt and then just crimp over the area of this interlacing. Also, to back up to ensure more "mental insurance" consider the need to be concerned at all about this issue and look up the time to heat up under actual intended load. Here is a website/calculator that will tell you how long it will take to max the insulation rating for your wire. If you are using 00 wire and it says 350A constant load capacity, then why does Tesla use this size wire and hook it up to a motor that can see 1300-1500A for short durations. Using the website below you can play with figures that you get from measuring the resistance of your butt connection vs a un-butted length of wire.

The more I buy and examine Tesla stuff to understand and innovate my project, the more I discover them is some smart fellas'.

Every single thing I get from Ebay to get inspiration from is amazingly well engendered - really really impressive work and design.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I would say so people can see the difference and leave out the small. You did see a difference and a pretty substantial one in my image. Mine hammer crimp is also not a solid block of metal either. If you look you can see the wires but more tightly bound to help with vibration issues. With the crimped one when I removed them from the vehicle there were about 5 of them that just fell apart with no real tugging so the crimp was quite poor. Interesting that a hydraulic crimp is so crappy. Not to say all hydraulic crimps are crappy. Just showing a comparison between two different ways. I'll do a video and revisit this. I won't bother doing another hammer as you can already see what it does. I will however use my hydraulic crimper and cut it for you to compare. Give me a few days and I'll post when it's ready to view.
I think part of the problem, and no insult intended, is the crimper, the 'you' in this.

Meaning, I made some horrible crimps with my hydraulic crimper when I started - fell right off, super awful.

Then I disovered when I bought a better TE 5ton tool with double the number of dies, that it wasn't just 'use the 2/0' die and move on. Nope, there was a 2/0+, 2/0 and 2/0- for most of the important sizes.

I use the hell out of the 6awg, 8awg dies also. Those too, +'s and -'s helped me dial in perfect crimps. That and a good supplier of adhesive single wall or double wall heat shrink and I've got crazy strong lug / connections.

I look forward to seeing your section demo for crimped work.

- Patrick
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Here's a question; is there any reason to bridge / jump the metal sheathing layer - from one side of the cut to the other?

Since it's mostly an EMF shield, NOT a ground shield (per sa), not sure I need to take step.

Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
First pics - sizing and such.
Handwriting Office supplies Font Writing implement Plant


Steps:
Ruler Office supplies Wood Writing implement Font

Mark

Writing implement Wood Office ruler Font Office supplies

Trim back jacket NOT inside jacket.

Office ruler Ruler Wood Writing implement Office supplies

Trim back inside jacket to coupler specified length, in this case, 1".

Lipstick Ruler Writing implement Office ruler Cigar

Alrighty, pretty...

Cosmetics Wood Writing implement Font Art

Doesn't really fit the non-shielded EV West cable (on the left).

2/0 AWG Cable
Left: EV West brand cable Right: Champlain EXRAD XLE HVFX 1000V Shielded Cable (also from EV West).

Anyway, stuff....

- Patrick
 
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