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Hey guys,

Can any of you guys identify this battery? cells type, config, ect?

It's suppose to be a 2013 Smart Lithium pack ( I thought it was suppose to be the Tesla round cells... BUT IT DOES NOT appear to be so... :( What in the heck did I get?

Attached photo.

thanks
 

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Mercedes Benz Smart Car I believe, from the photo. Same logo as their website.

You can start your internet search there.
https://www.smartusa.com/
http://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=329
Quote - These used 18650 Tesla-Smart Car modules are comprised of 2600mAh cells arranged in a 22p15s configuration. They are rated at 100 amps, 150 amps peak.
Then same page, pdf files.
http://evwest.com/support/ncr18650.pdf

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?321567-Interesting-comparisons-between-2900mAh-NCR-18650-and-3100mAh-NCR-18650A
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2224790-Panasonic-NCR-18650-cells-in-RC


Pretty useful site that evwest.com website. The price seems pretty heavy. I can buy tool pack batteries for $225usd and get 63V (15S) and 75Ah so that is 4700Wh, they are average discharge 18650 cells at 10A, but low Ah, like 1.6Ah. You can try looking at other sites, because you can buy 18650 cans for $3cdn which is like $2.25usd. You could even buy them cheaper then that. But its a lot of work to connect them up the way you want.

I was reading on this site too that the prices for vehicle battery packs can vary from one seller to another, so keep your eyes open.

LOL I wrote all that and you got that pack sitting at your home. Oh well, I will leave it.
So I assume you want to move around the configuration of what you have?

If you do anything, anything at all to that pack, leave the tab welded strips on, do not take them off. I made that mistake with my a123 pack and I had a hard time even soldering onto them which I wouldnt recommend soldering onto the can, it was my last ditch effort, without making my own MOT tab welder.
 

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Mercedes Benz Smart Car I believe, from the photo. Same logo as their website.

You can start your internet search there.
https://www.smartusa.com/
http://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=329
Quote - These used 18650 Tesla-Smart Car modules are comprised of 2600mAh cells arranged in a 22p15s configuration. They are rated at 100 amps, 150 amps peak.
Then same page, pdf files.
http://evwest.com/support/ncr18650.pdf

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?321567-Interesting-comparisons-between-2900mAh-NCR-18650-and-3100mAh-NCR-18650A
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2224790-Panasonic-NCR-18650-cells-in-RC
Different year, different battery...

A lot of Mercedes batteries are difficult to re-arrange unfortunately...

The Tesla batteries were only for a couple of years, I don't know what years, someone else probably will.
These are NOT the Tesla round cells... They are the pouch type lithium made by Li-Tec in Germany.


Here is a link to a seller that has a battery that matches pretty close to what you have when I compare pictures. https://evbatterycenter.com/HAC4/index.php?option=com_hikashop&ctrl=product&task=show&cid=221&name=6kwh-lithium-battery-pack-111v-52ah-31-cells-litec-diy&Itemid=605

Might be helpful.
-YS
Yup, that's it right there...
 

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You are right, these are not Tesla, they are Li-tec. They made the batteries for the Smart car after Tesla did. Dont remember which years exactly.
Reason they switched from Tesla was because it did not have the power output they wanted.
They have since gone out of business. I have several of those packs with one cell shorted out in the middle of the string.
They also canceled the warranty on those batteries, so anyone who has that car is not in a good position.
Each module has 31 cells in series. The pouch cells inside are GIANT!!
Here is an older thread about them. Some good information in there.
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/li-tec-batteries-2013-smart-car-172458.html
 

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You are right, these are not Tesla, they are Li-tec. They made the batteries for the Smart car after Tesla did. Dont remember which years exactly.
Reason they switched from Tesla was because it did not have the power output they wanted.
They have since gone out of business. I have several of those packs with one cell shorted out in the middle of the string.
They also canceled the warranty on those batteries, so anyone who has that car is not in a good position.
Each module has 31 cells in series. The pouch cells inside are GIANT!!
Here is an older thread about them. Some good information in there.
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/li-tec-batteries-2013-smart-car-172458.html
Thanks for posting the picture... But I have remove the water cooling plate... I keep on counting... many time... I can only count 30cells.... I measure the pack total voltage = 109volts... measure each cells show 3.6v... 109/3.6 = 30.27 which mean it should be 30cells... I can not see how this is a 31cells? Maybe a dead cell?
 

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I was confused the first time i got these too.
I just double checked, there are 31 cells. Thats why the terminal switches sides, if it were even amount of cells, they would both be on the same side.
Here is another way to confirm the amount of cells.
We know the spot welded tabs on top are for the BMS, and we know the BMS measures every cell.
The BMS will have one connection per cell plus the main ground, so there are always one more BMS connections than there are cells. There are 32 spot welded BMS tabs.
Measure the voltage between each BMS connection to find the bad cell.
More than likely, it is on the end, otherwise you would have seen it.
 

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I was confused the first time i got these too.
I just double checked, there are 31 cells. Thats why the terminal switches sides, if it were even amount of cells, they would both be on the same side.
Here is another way to confirm the amount of cells.
We know the spot welded tabs on top are for the BMS, and we know the BMS measures every cell.
The BMS will have one connection per cell plus the main ground, so there are always one more BMS connections than there are cells. There are 32 spot welded BMS tabs.
Measure the voltage between each BMS connection to find the bad cell.
More than likely, it is on the end, otherwise you would have seen it.
That make sense. Not the easiest pack to work with, German engineering... lol, even those damn threaded rod with the half rounded nut they use is up there...
 
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