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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got a good deal on this charger but I didn't know it needed the Club Car computer to charge batteries. I intend to use it to charge eight 6 volt t-105 batteries for my Commuta-Car. I came across this guy on eBay who claims he knows how to modify it so you can charge your batteries without the computer. He is selling a "turbo" type speed switch for your golf cart.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Electric-GOLF-CAR-SPEED-BOOSTER-Super-Duty-NO-LIMITS_W0QQitemZ130287261943QQcmdZViewItemQQptZOther_Vehicle_Parts?hash=item130287261943&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A727|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318






I just grabbed this charger because I assumed I could use it if/when I get my commuta-car going. He wants $25.00 for a .pdf file with instructions on how to modify the charger to work without the club car's computer.

Dan
 

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I haven't been able to find a pinout of the connections to your charger but for some reason it appears you just have a normal 3 pin AC setup and charge wires on the other connector?

Am I wrong, could you show pictures of the connectors?

If it does indeed need input from a computer of sorts I'm uncertain what they would be for as the charger isn't a dumb charger and should monitor voltage internally, unless it does smart balancing which I doubt.

I do know that most normal chargers that have a transformer can be forced into charging without inputs but they usually suffer brain damage (I've done that to a few stubborn units)

Good Luck
Ryan
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I haven't actually received the charger yet. I bought it on eBay. The pictures above are from the auction.

Dan
 

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dolinick,

I aquired one of those chargers as part of a lot I bought, Mine's a bit beat up and it's missing whatever is supposed to be in the spot next to where the power cord goes into the chargers case. (it's been jumpered out). Can you tell me is it a fuse holder or on off switch or maybe a curcuit breaker?

Anyway to make the charger work:

Inside the plug if you look carefully you will see 3 pins one will be smaller then the other two. On mine at least the plug has a + and - embossed into the plug next to the pin. those of course go to positive and negitive of your battery pack. The third pin is the sensor wire and as far as I can tell this wire needs to go to the most negitive terminal of the battery pack. There is a little unit inside the charger that seems compare the voltage from the rectifier and the battery pack.

I guess this should shut down the charger when the the voltages reach a some matching point. I dont have 48 volts worth of lead acid batteries to check this with, all I have are AGMs

So you should be able to make your charger work just by hooking up the charger's positive and negitive pins to the battery then also hook the sensor wire to the negitive terminal of the battery. At least that made mine work.

I get about 60-61 volts out of mine which I guess is OK for lead acid. It's a little high for the AGM batteries I'm now going to use, But I think I have a way to fix that.

I think I just saved you $25.00, have a beer on me

By the way any one who would charge you $25.00 for a PDF of that kind of information does not really want anything but as much money as he can get from you for the least value given. Just like his TURBO kit. From what I can see it's made up of cheap crap and sold high. The info to build that turbo system is available all over the place for free.

If you shop eBay you should be able to find the other half of the plug. I've seen them but they are pricy. 75.00 comes to mind.

Anyway good lucjk with your charger.
 
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