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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
instead of having to buy a coupler and motor mount for a car for a conversion would it just be easier to use a front wheel drive car and stick the nissan leaf motor assembly with the gear reduction transmission in there and use that in the car instead? thinking of a honda crz
 

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HELLO SOMEONE HAS ANY PROJECT WITH A NISSAN LEAF ENGINE NEEDED HELP WITH THE SPLINE COUPLING SLEEVE THANKS
 

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The Nissan Leaf motor itself has an identical spline size/count to several production cars including certain Honda’s
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The Nissan Leaf motor itself has an identical spline size/count to several production cars including certain Honda’s
what do you mean? you mean like the actual motor itself without the transmission on? i dont believe this is true.
 

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what do you mean? you mean like the actual motor itself without the transmission on? i dont believe this is true.
Check the spec of the motor spline,
the mounting face is all wrong but the 20 count 0.86” slip fit spline itself isn’t that uncommon


heck a Geo tracker Xmsn fits right up
 

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At the worst all you need is an adapter to the front mounts. There are several ways to accomplish this. All involve welding or bolting tabs. Not that hard to fabricate. Just look at other projects for tips. It will be a total custom installation.
 

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At the worst all you need is an adapter to the front mounts.
That's not "all you need". The idea of using a complete drive unit makes a lot of sense, but unless the axle shafts used with the chosen drive unit happen to be completely compatible with the axle shafts used by the car being converted, custom or modified axle shafts will be required.
 

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That is not true. I am talking about adapting the transmission and motor mounts to fit the whole Nissan drive unit in. Worst case is to lengthen or shorten the shafts. Hopefully cleaver use of wheels and spacers can solve the problem if there is one.
 

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That is not true. I am talking about adapting the transmission and motor mounts to fit the whole Nissan drive unit in. Worst case is to lengthen or shorten the shafts. Hopefully cleaver use of wheels and spacers can solve the problem if there is one.
Do you understand what is on the end of axle shafts? The outer end of the shaft is typically splined, and must exactly match the hub (spline diameter, tooth count, shaft length, thread on end). The inner end is also typically splined, but may be a flanged connection; again, it must exactly match the drive unit outputs. There is far more to this than just the length... although yes, even if the car has hubs which match the drive unit donor, the shafts still won't work unless they're also the right lengths. Changing wheels and using some hack spacers between the wheels and hubs won't make any difference to whether or not the axle shafts are right.

Starting from post #103 of Westfalia T3 with Chevy Bolt drivetrain, Yabert describes his axle shaft solution, which involves using CV joints which go with the hubs on both ends, stub axles modified to accept the van's inboard CV joints on the inboard end, and custom splined shafts between them. It is possible to buy custom stub axles for Tesla drive units which allow them to used with stock axle shafts in some Porsche models (Tesla Drive Shaft Stump 108 Porsche 930 / 964 / 993 / VW), or with a GKN joint for axle shafts having a reasonably common inboard end spline for other vehicles (Tesla Drive Unit Drive Shaft Stumps).

It is possible to go a step further in using salvaged EV parts, and use the subframe and front suspension (and brakes, and likely steering too), as well as the drive unit. In that case the axle shafts are not a problem (they're just part of what is swapped in from the donor EV to the converted car), but the structural considerations are much greater. Plus, the steering column and brakes need to be adapted to work. This has been done at the rear of some conversions, where it is somewhat simplified by avoiding the steering.
 
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