Can't get Curtis 1314 software to connect

Solved my problem.

I made up a cable that goes into the plug for the 840 meter based on info from other threads on this forum.

Here’s the pinout for the cable. (I just ordered the molex connector today so I’m not sure I got the right part numbers. I hot-wired it to make it work for now)

Molex 8-pole 2 row connector is 39-01-3089 (Digikey WM24063-ND) Pins 39-00-0083 (Digikey WM3114CT-ND)
Computer connector is DB9 Female
Molex --------------- DB-9
TX 6 -----wht------ 2 Computer RX
RX 1 -----grn------- 3 Computer TX
GRD 8 -----blk------- 5 Signal Ground
12v 5 -----red------ No Connection
Com Port set at 9600 8 N 1

You can also use Hyperterminal and read the data being sent to the 840 meter.

There is no optoisolation so be carefull not to have computer and charger connected at the same time.

You may already know this but...

There is no TTL involved, it is just straight serial.

When making the cable, TX to RX and RX to TX, ground to ground and NEVER connect the 12V wire. (a 3 wire cable)

There are no converters involved. It is straight serial. Opto-isolator is optional, but buy several as they will burn out if the computer touches the car.....

The older software is serial interface and it is a real problem to get it to finally connect. It is a serial interface only and you must use a USB to Serial converter (with the driver supplied with the converter). I managed it and used it for a while. The trick is to check your computer, transfer what ever is using COM 1 to some other COM port so the software can use COM 1.

An acquaintance bought the newer Curtis package. It recognises USB interface and is native. It needs no "driver"..... and has a few new features too. DO NOT allow the laptop to touch the car anywhere!!! (Charger on or off) It will send a charge through the USB port and kill it through the ground wire....(Don't ask)

I have used the older "Internet" software, the newer software and the hand held programmer.

The hand held is the absolute best for me. It is extremely portable, connects fast, will toggle between 3 screens with configurable buttons and is almost fool proof.

It cost me $400 (it eliminates Microsoft from the picture, a good thing)

If you even think you have had a discharge
between the car and laptop, plug in any
other USB device to make sure the port i
s working. It does not take much to kill
the board traces on a USB port.

The Data part might be fried but it will still
have power through it, so check a mouse,
or memory stick to check the data part.

If that is good and you are still having
issues, plug in a serial device to the adapter
and get it working. It will be easier to do
than that controller software.

Then, Windows 7 is a special case. XP is
easiest, Vista harder but 7 is a pain to
make work.

First get a device that states "Win 7" on it.

Second, it is a simple deal really to understand,
but harder to do. Any windows version needs
to view the USB port as a serial....

Open the Device Manager, ports section. Open
each listed port, then properties, then resources
to see which one is COM 1. Change it to COM 11
or something other than COM 1.

Then plug in the adapter alone. Did it register a
new port? Did it try to load a driver? If so, Good.
( Or You might want to delete it and plug it in until it does.)

Under the new listed port, open "Properties".
Then "Resources" choose to set it to COM 1.
Then Exit.

Open the Curtis program, At the top is the
settings to set the port. Make sure it is set
to recognise COM 1.

I had to do this 10-15 times and one time....
"BINGO" it recognised the port and started working.

Ain't windows wonderful.

There is another longer article on it here...
ivanbennett dot com/forum/index.php?topic=13.0

You will have to type it into your browser as
linking to other sites is against forum policy.
(At least for me it is)

Miz

Nick Smith said:

All good - supplier came through rather unexpectedly with the drivers. I can now let you know that the Curtis 1309USB appears to use the FTDI drivers.

Windows 7 pro (6.1.7601 SP1) did not recognise the device nor could it locate device drivers online...

I will let you know when I get it working!

Click to expand...

The USB 1309 is FTDI based but it is given it's own Curtis specific VID and PID (vendor/product ID) ... USB\VID_1FA1&PID_00C8 .
It's possible to reprogram the FTDI Chip with this 1309 Curtis custom VID/PID using FTPROG from FTDI.
http://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Documents/TechnicalNotes/TN_100_USB_VID-PID_Guidelines.pdf

I have done this myself and although I can communicate with a controller the access level is defaulted to USER as there is still an error....this appears to be down to Curtis programming the chip with a specific I.D. identifier.


Sometimes missing from the software installation.
Driver Package Installer (DPInst)
dpinst32.exe AND dpinst64.exe should be present in the 1309 USB Driver folder as dpinst64.exe is required for 64 bit puters.

The 1309 config is also "silent" as the "Wizard" display is turned OFF in a small file called DPInst.xml

<?xml version="1.0"?>
<dpInst>
<suppressWizard/>
<quietInstallStrict/>
<deleteBinaries/>
</dpInst>

This can be modified in Notepad to be ...

<?xml version="1.0"?>
<dpInst>
</dpInst>

The installation progress is then displayed on screen when you click on the relevant DPInst32 or 64.exe

What's that about insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result, who ever thought that one up had never tried connecting to a curtis controller using Windows 7, Thanks guy's I have it working manly due to Miz saying he had to try 15 times I just tried it over and over again connected to COM 1 here's a pic of my set up

Here's 2 types of setups that work for me on Windows 7 64 bit on any COM port upto 8...with the OLDER 1314 SOFTWARE.
I have 3 of the blue serial leads .... 2 use the CH340 chip and work just fine ...the other uses a Prolific PL2303 and doesn't.

The TTL to Serial via an inverter chip SN74HC14N also works fine and seems to work happily with any type/model of USB - TTL adapter.