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I am having trouble getting my 1314 software to connect to my controller and I am hoping someone can help me. I've read the other threads on this subject but nothing seems to work.

The controller is a 1238-7501.

I am using a Compaq M700 laptop running a fresh install of XP Pro SP3
The M700 Has a Pentium III at 450MHz. (Also tried a newer Dell D630 running Vista with same result)

The 1314 software is up to date.
The 1309 dongle is a straight serial type connected to Com1 port. I am not using a USB adapter.


Autodetect does not find anything so I manually set to Serial on Com1.


On the 1309 dongle, I see RX flashing about 4 times per sec before connect and during connection attempt, both the Rx and Tx flash quickly for a second or so and then I get the #23 timeout error.
The 1314 Help File says I should contact Curtis if problem persists but I'm getting no response from my emails.


I did a loopback test on the com port so I know it is working.

Here are the default settings for my com port.

BPS 9600
Data Bits 8
Parity none
Stop Bits 1
Flow Control None
Receive Buffer High 14
Transmit Buffer High 16

I'm pretty sure that 9600, 8, N, 1 are correct so I didn't try other combinations.
Besides, I would expect that the 1314 software would set the port correctly. Is that a good assumption?
I tried Flow Control at None, Hardware and Xon/Xoff
I tried buffers at High and Low settings

I tried setting 1314 software at Serial and Enhanced Serial
I also tried changing the registry setting for Communications Timeout from 2000ms to 4000ms
No luck

As another test, I tried using Hyperterminal to see if I could pick up any data from the 4/sec flashes. Nothing.

Any suggestions on resolving this would be much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Solved my problem.

I made up a cable that goes into the plug for the 840 meter based on info from other threads on this forum.

Here’s the pinout for the cable. (I just ordered the molex connector today so I’m not sure I got the right part numbers. I hot-wired it to make it work for now)

Molex 8-pole 2 row connector is 39-01-3089 (Digikey WM24063-ND) Pins 39-00-0083 (Digikey WM3114CT-ND)
Computer connector is DB9 Female
Molex --------------- DB-9
TX 6 -----wht------ 2 Computer RX
RX 1 -----grn------- 3 Computer TX
GRD 8 -----blk------- 5 Signal Ground
12v 5 -----red------ No Connection
Com Port set at 9600 8 N 1

You can also use Hyperterminal and read the data being sent to the 840 meter.

There is no optoisolation so be carefull not to have computer and charger connected at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Same connection. Computer to 840 cable.
As it turns out, the dongle from curtis was faulty. It would pass data from computer to controller but not from controller to computer. This very expensive dongle is nothing more than a serial cable with optical isolation.
 

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Hi. This is an old thread but...

This very expensive dongle is nothing more than a serial cable with optical isolation.
I thought the 1309 was a CAN<->Serial converter. I'm glad to see you got the software to run over the serial port.

Is there a cheaper source for the Curtis software than their MSRP of $450?

JR
 

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I purchased an OEM curtis cable (1309USB) and software but it seems to be missing a USB device driver. I thought the software would have this included but no luck.

Can anyone help?
 

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Ask your supplier. IIRC, it's just a serial-usb driver you need, but I forget if it's Prolific, FTDI or SiLabs (it wouldn't come with the dongle, your computer should recognize it if it's running an up-to-date OS)
 

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You may already know this but...

There is no TTL involved, it is just straight serial.

When making the cable, TX to RX and RX to TX, ground to ground and NEVER connect the 12V wire. (a 3 wire cable)

There are no converters involved. It is straight serial. Opto-isolator is optional, but buy several as they will burn out if the computer touches the car.....

The older software is serial interface and it is a real problem to get it to finally connect. It is a serial interface only and you must use a USB to Serial converter (with the driver supplied with the converter). I managed it and used it for a while. The trick is to check your computer, transfer what ever is using COM 1 to some other COM port so the software can use COM 1.

An acquaintance bought the newer Curtis package. It recognises USB interface and is native. It needs no "driver"..... and has a few new features too. DO NOT allow the laptop to touch the car anywhere!!! (Charger on or off) It will send a charge through the USB port and kill it through the ground wire....(Don't ask)

I have used the older "Internet" software, the newer software and the hand held programmer.

The hand held is the absolute best for me. It is extremely portable, connects fast, will toggle between 3 screens with configurable buttons and is almost fool proof.

It cost me $400 (it eliminates Microsoft from the picture, a good thing)
 

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Ask your supplier. IIRC, it's just a serial-usb driver you need, but I forget if it's Prolific, FTDI or SiLabs (it wouldn't come with the dongle, your computer should recognize it if it's running an up-to-date OS)
All good - supplier came through rather unexpectedly with the drivers. I can now let you know that the Curtis 1309USB appears to use the FTDI drivers.

Windows 7 pro (6.1.7601 SP1) did not recognise the device nor could it locate device drivers online...

I will let you know when I get it working!
 

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An acquaintance bought the newer Curtis package. It recognises USB interface and is native. It needs no "driver"..... and has a few new features too. DO NOT allow the laptop to touch the car anywhere!!! (Charger on or off) It will send a charge through the USB port and kill it through the ground wire....(Don't ask)
Hi Miz I'm not asking but what were the symptoms and how did you go about fixing them I'm afraid I may have done this as I'm getting an "unknown controller error" message when attempting to connect, I'm receiving data and my gauge still works fine
 

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If you even think you have had a discharge
between the car and laptop, plug in any
other USB device to make sure the port i
s working. It does not take much to kill
the board traces on a USB port.

The Data part might be fried but it will still
have power through it, so check a mouse,
or memory stick to check the data part.

If that is good and you are still having
issues, plug in a serial device to the adapter
and get it working. It will be easier to do
than that controller software.

Then, Windows 7 is a special case. XP is
easiest, Vista harder but 7 is a pain to
make work.

First get a device that states "Win 7" on it.

Second, it is a simple deal really to understand,
but harder to do. Any windows version needs
to view the USB port as a serial....

Open the Device Manager, ports section. Open
each listed port, then properties, then resources
to see which one is COM 1. Change it to COM 11
or something other than COM 1.

Then plug in the adapter alone. Did it register a
new port? Did it try to load a driver? If so, Good.
( Or You might want to delete it and plug it in until it does.)

Under the new listed port, open "Properties".
Then "Resources" choose to set it to COM 1.
Then Exit.

Open the Curtis program, At the top is the
settings to set the port. Make sure it is set
to recognise COM 1.

I had to do this 10-15 times and one time....
"BINGO" it recognised the port and started working.

Ain't windows wonderful.

There is another longer article on it here...
ivanbennett dot com/forum/index.php?topic=13.0

You will have to type it into your browser as
linking to other sites is against forum policy.
(At least for me it is)

Miz
 

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This may be of interest to anyone that owns an arduino, the arduino has a built in serial to usb convertor even if you don't it's probably better money spent than buying a cable or making one yourself, and you're left with a new toy to play with, all you need to do to use it is remove or busy out the chip by writing an empty sketch "void loop(){}" upload that to the Arduino close the Arduino software and connect the controller to pins 0 and 1 on my 1238-7601 green to pin0 and white to pin1, black to arduino gnd, connect your arduino cable to the USB of the laptop as you would anyway if you have successfully connected the arduino the drivers are already installed, connect the software to the same com port the arduino uses and you're away, hope this helps, I now have a unused serial usb cable I payed 30 bucks for oh well you live and learn.

Update this works but you must use a MAX232 chip, as the Arduino is ttl and the controller RS232 I'll post pictures later.
 

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All good - supplier came through rather unexpectedly with the drivers. I can now let you know that the Curtis 1309USB appears to use the FTDI drivers.

Windows 7 pro (6.1.7601 SP1) did not recognise the device nor could it locate device drivers online...

I will let you know when I get it working!
The USB 1309 is FTDI based but it is given it's own Curtis specific VID and PID (vendor/product ID) ... USB\VID_1FA1&PID_00C8 .
It's possible to reprogram the FTDI Chip with this 1309 Curtis custom VID/PID using FTPROG from FTDI.
http://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Documents/TechnicalNotes/TN_100_USB_VID-PID_Guidelines.pdf

I have done this myself and although I can communicate with a controller the access level is defaulted to USER as there is still an error....this appears to be down to Curtis programming the chip with a specific I.D. identifier.


Sometimes missing from the software installation.
Driver Package Installer (DPInst)
dpinst32.exe AND dpinst64.exe should be present in the 1309 USB Driver folder as dpinst64.exe is required for 64 bit puters.

The 1309 config is also "silent" as the "Wizard" display is turned OFF in a small file called DPInst.xml

<?xml version="1.0"?>
<dpInst>
<suppressWizard/>
<quietInstallStrict/>
<deleteBinaries/>
</dpInst>

This can be modified in Notepad to be ...

<?xml version="1.0"?>
<dpInst>
</dpInst>

The installation progress is then displayed on screen when you click on the relevant DPInst32 or 64.exe
 

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What's that about insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result, who ever thought that one up had never tried connecting to a curtis controller using Windows 7, Thanks guy's I have it working manly due to Miz saying he had to try 15 times I just tried it over and over again connected to COM 1 here's a pic of my set up
 

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Here's 2 types of setups that work for me on Windows 7 64 bit on any COM port upto 8...with the OLDER 1314 SOFTWARE.
I have 3 of the blue serial leads .... 2 use the CH340 chip and work just fine ...the other uses a Prolific PL2303 and doesn't.

The TTL to Serial via an inverter chip SN74HC14N also works fine and seems to work happily with any type/model of USB - TTL adapter.
 

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Hi guys

I'm new on here and realise this is an old thread, but I'm looking for some help. I've got a axiom mega EV, with curtis controller. It seems to be in some sort of safe mode, which gives low power no reverse and lots of dash functions are disabled.

Upshot is I'm looking for a the 1314 PC software download link, or failing that if someone would be willing to burn a disc with the .exe install file on that I'd be willing to pay for time, trouble, postage, etc! I really don't know where to turn with this, as the car manufacturer isn't proving much help.

Hoping someone can help me get back on the road
 
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