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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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Hello all
I had been looking for a a 4x4 to convert to electric for quite some time. When i initially researched the 4x4 ATVs used a separate transfer case to power the front and rear wheels. UNFORTUNATELY, the CFmoto UTV i bought doesn't do that. The transfer case is built into the engine block. I've included a couple pictures of the engine/drivetrain setup.
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So i guess my first question is: Do you know of any companies that sell a standalone transfer case for ATVs/UTV/ Side by Sides/ buggies?
There's so much room with the engine removed I'm excited about the possibilities.
Are there any similar builds i can look up to figure out the best motor, controller, battery setup to run?
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Looks like you might be able to couple to the crankshaft? Pull the head off and put a coverplate on.
Thanks for the reply. I had considered that. The downside is then i have to have that big, heavy bottom portion of the ICE engine, CVT transmission and the backup pull starter from the ICE engine.

After taking these pictures and thinking about things more.I wonder if i can find an electric motor that has output shafts on each end? I could then mount the motor transverse. Then modify the current driveshafts to attach to the motor output shafts. That would take me to the front and rear differentials. I'd have to make sure the rotation direction works that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I decided to connect the front driveshaft and take a top view picture.
If I could find a dual output shaft electric motor. I could machine an adapter to mount the driveshafts to the motor shafts.
If not a dual output shaft electric motor. Maybe a rear reduction device that has dual outputs? See the crude illustration in the picture.
Are there any suggestions for motors or a gear reduction type device to allow for a dual output?
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Just remember that when cornering, the forces of your 2 drive axles fighting with different rotational speeds in that "locked center dif" configuration will have to go thru the little motor end shafts and the internals where the windings may be attached. Twisty twisty.
I mentioned this dif option in a different thread on similar idea:
If you could find a standalone transfer cases with sealed input and output hubs/shafts this would be the way to go. I am assuming that the quality of the old t-case was not very high after seeing some cratered plastic internals of modern UTV parts a few weeks ago. If you trust the rest of the drivetrain to take higher torque, maybe you could choose a larger t-case to allow for the higher torque levels the EV motor may deliver.

Another option I will throw in to be critiqued : Small IRS differential (possibly LSD if required) as the transfer case with the motor on top/ behind/whatever, using a beefy timing belt (or 2 or 3 normal sized). Pick a common cog sizing and you have a lifetime supply of scrapyard pulleys of different sizes to tune or change your motor:drive ratio as desired.

Also with a UTV with a low daily "yard" range requirement, you could keep the onboard battery small to start and build a utility trailer with a battery floor for range extension later on.

Good luck!
You could skip the center dif portion of that and use a thicker shaft with 2 end bearings and timing pullies between. (multiple in parallel if needed). If you spec your motor to have good operation/efficiency in the ratios made possible by different available junkyard pully combinations, that could work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well this UTV has front and rear differentials. In fact a cool feature about this model is the ability to switch between 4wd and 2wd modes by pushing a button. When 4wd is turned on the front differential is locked and essentially drives the front wheels. When off the front diff is an open spool.
Because of the front and rear diff. won't this reduce any loads put on the motor when cornering?
 

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Does that 2WD/4WD locking action happen in the transfer case? That is usually the way they work. With that gone it will still put the strain into the center driveshaft from my understanding of your system. The front and rear differentials equal out the different rotational speeds of the wheels at that axle, but without a center diff (usually in the transfer case) there will be different axle speeds. If your motor is big enough with strong couplings it may be fine, it was just something to consider.
 
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