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I have a leaf motor and controller, I keep hearing to run t 2 complete volt batteries. I’m wondering why there better than leaf system.
 

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I have a leaf motor and controller, I keep hearing to run t 2 complete volt batteries. I’m wondering why there better than leaf system.
The Volt batteries are temperature controlled with a very impressive temperature control system

This appears to massively reduce the degradation that the Leaf's suffer
And permits you to draw more power

On the flip side it means they are slightly larger and heavier for the same energy

I have most of a Volt battery in my car - and I was very impressed with the engineering
 

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Factory 388 volts, fused for 400 amps. 96s3p (I forget)

My pack 396 volts split in two,( 198 v ) max current so far: 800 amps

Low cutoff 160v @ 0 current, 100v max current

So far 6 years installed
 

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Factory 388 volts, fused for 400 amps. 96s3p (I forget)

My pack 396 volts split in two,( 198 v )...
Yes, the first-generation Volt battery is 96S3P; 388 volts would be well charged, versus a nominal 360 volts.

Both generations of Volt batteries split into smaller blocks, and (with some mechanical work) the blocks split into smaller modules, of two different cell counts.

Lots of good info on the Volt batteries from GM:
VOLT_BATTERY.pdf
 

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LG Batteries don’t degrade like the Leaf cells, they are usually cheaper as well
LG Chem cells are found in GM EVs and plug-in hybrids (all recent models other than the first year of the Spark EV) and the Chrysler Pacifica Hybrid, among others.
 

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The Volt "fuse" and service disconnect is probably a 400 amp fuse - however I'm pulling a peak current of 1200 amps through mine and it has not blown (yet) - I only hit 1200 for a couple of seconds
 

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The Volt "fuse" and service disconnect is probably a 400 amp fuse - however I'm pulling a peak current of 1200 amps through mine and it has not blown (yet) - I only hit 1200 for a couple of seconds
Nope, i know for a fact i have 350A fuse inside service disconnect. I took it apart out of curiosity and it states 350A on the fuse. I am talking about 1st gen Volt and Ampera cars.
Makes sense since battery cables are 35mm2 and both motor cables are more like 16mm2. All in all very thin considering system capability.
 

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So it's a 350 amp fuse - and it still holds up to 1200 amps for a couple of seconds

I do plan on doing a 1/4 mile rather than the 1/8th mile - so we will see if it lasts for that as well
 

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So it's a 350 amp fuse - and it still holds up to 1200 amps for a couple of seconds

I do plan on doing a 1/4 mile rather than the 1/8th mile - so we will see if it lasts for that as well
Than you can use two disconnects each on its own battery poles.
 

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More seriously a quarter mile will mean I am drawing current for longer

The Fuse may blow

The Motor may blow

Something else may fail

So its something for the last event of this season (we are in Autumn now)
 

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More seriously a quarter mile will mean I am drawing current for longer

The Fuse may blow

The Motor may blow

Something else may fail

So its something for the last event of this season (we are in Autumn now)
I dont think motor will blow just from an OC event.
Your inverter may fail though...
Fuse is there to keep your cables from melting so you can oversize it with your cable size in mind.
Battery may be damaged if there is an acute event. Too much overcurrent or overtemperature etc...
 

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I have been looking for some Chevy volt modules as the EV trike I just picked up had them installed and would like to use the same set up. Also, would be nice to use them interchangeably with other EV projects I have going on. Is anyone selling any or know of a good decent used set? I've tried the EV west and eBay, just wasn't sure if there was any others out there or anyone that has some laying around they wouldn't mind getting rid of. Any thoughts on the Valance Batteries and their uses for EV's? Haven't heard much talk about those and wasn't sure if they're hard to find, too expensive for what you get or reliability aren't up to par or any of the vice versa.
 

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More seriously a quarter mile will mean I am drawing current for longer

The Fuse may blow

The Motor may blow

Something else may fail

So its something for the last event of this season (we are in Autumn now)
Tesseract used to quote something he called an IRT table back in the SOL1 build days. It deals with how fast a fuse will fail at what (wattage) levels.

If you're water cooling, I doubt that a 1/4 mile will hurt the batteries.
 
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