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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone know of a safe method for cutting the packs down to make them into 12 volt unit? I really want to swap out my deep cycles in my boat and RV with some volt batteries but those forums seemingly just like to deal with tech that they fully understand. I don't want to convert the entire thing to 48 Volt so I'm looking to make 12 Volt batteries. Maybe someone knows of a better DC to DC converter than I do but I want more than the little golf cart units and I don't want to spend a crap load of money on a converter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Maybe I need to look into converters more. I really just want it to run navigation lights and electronics, house water pump and bilge pump and other assorted low power electronics. The biggest draw I would introduce at some point would be a DC refrigeration system. I have seen refrigeration systems that run on 24 volt but maybe one exists that runs on 48. I'll have to look into that more. I have a line on an affordable Volt battery so that got my brain juices flowing. It would be cheaper than buying the typical 6 volt bank of golf cart batteries for both my RV and sailboat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I would like to see that picture. Upon further review it seems like it might just make sense to leave the 48 volt modules intact and use an inverter that accepts 48 volts. Considering all the 48 volt modules have posts and would have intact BMS leads it might just be the way to go. As I learn more about these batteries and the lithium world I feel more comfortable breaking away from what is normal for the lead acid 12 volt world.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Buy you def want good BMS protection on a boat using a chemistry at risk of thermal runaway.
I think You're right, I'm going to hold off on the boat for now. I can always bail out of my motorhome if things get a little warm but I should make sure I fully understand what I'm doing before I sail miles from shore with a fire in the making. The motorhome will be a great and hopefully dry place to really learn everything I need to know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Whoa, apparently I'm not subscribed to my own thread. I definitely am going to keep the packs at 48 volts and while i considered that most loads would be 12 volts I'm actually in a position where the entire interior of my motorhome is being rebuilt so i can install whatever size loads I can find. 48 volt seems to make the most sense currently for inverters and a DC mini split as well as not having to chop up the modules. For the things i can't find in 48 volts I'll weigh my options between running something off the inverter or using a DC to DC converter. Specifically the fridge is what my biggest question is. Thanks for the info everyone!
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
If the fridge is the typical newer multi way the 12v load is only an amp or so for controls.

Fwiw I have an old 3 way in the casita that draws 40 amps but it runs while driving down the road. It's a rare beastie and when if fails.......
I am currently renovating the motorhome and when I put a refrigerator back in I would like to upgrade. The old 3 way I have has seen better days so I was contemplating a DC unit that I could swap between the RV and the Boat. Something like a whynter portable Fridge. They have dual zone models that are top loading that seem pretty efficient! I eat mostly food prepared from fresh ingredients or dry ingredients and my residential fridge is mostly empty so I don't need a lot of space.
 
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