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Chevy volt battery layout question

2048 Views 46 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  piotrsko
Hi there,

I have a full Chevy volt pack that has 7 12 cell 48 v 50 ah batteries plus 2 6 cell I assume 24 , 25 ah batteries.

for my lay out I would like to have a 144 volt setup.

please confirm if this is correct:

3 rows of 48v batteries in parallel making it 144 v total

theN each row makes a series. If I buy a few more I can have 3 12 cell batteries plus 1 6 cell battery in series, making one string. I think this would be 175 amps 50 + 50 + 50 + 25 = 175 amps around 21kw
Can someone confirm if this assumption is correct ? Many thanks
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So yeah, I ran for a few years (maybe 6 - 8k miles) on Volt modules, 24kWh pack in 4 parallel strings, each 36S (3 x 2kWh(12S) modules in series per string). The entire time with no BMS or balancer whatsoever. And eventually I lost 1 cell, and only noticed during a routine voltage check of the individual 12S modules, which did in fact wander only slightly from each other in voltage - and one of them being particularly low alerted me to the dead / dying cell which was by then starting to drain my entire pack slowly, while also over-charging the other cells in the string. I believe it would not have happened if I had used a balancer. That said, the rest of the entire pack is fine. 43Ah x 4 parallel = 172Ah pack. I often pushed ~250 amps (~1.5C) on acceleration but usually pulled 100 - 150 amps (<1C) for normal driving.

I use the same Volt modules in my Solar Energy system. The cells wander very little - on the order of a few 100's from each other - throughout the entie pack (like for example 4.01, 4.02, 4.01, 4.02, 4.04, 4.01 etc). Those that wander more noticeably, get a balancer for a few days evey few months. And they behave wonderfully.

I wasn't ready for the mess of wires or hasstle that would be 4 parallel 36S balances wired up in my car, each set interconnecting the 3 modules in series. But now that I lost 1 cell and thus 1 usable string, I wish I had done it. But those batteies will go to other fun projects. I have a new set of 40 x 200Ah LiFePO4's so now I get to have one big string, and I damn sure will wire in that balancer - a pair of 25S 5Amp active balancers, overlapped to cover the entire pack. I think I'm going to make a voltage view screen with a hand full of Cell Meter 8's. Have my own little BMS for a fraction of the cost (under 200 all told)...

Cheers!
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So yeah, I ran for a few years (maybe 6 - 8k miles) on Volt modules, 24kWh pack in 4 parallel strings, each 36S (3 x 2kWh(12S) modules in series per string). The entire time with no BMS or balancer whatsoever. And eventually I lost 1 cell, and only noticed during a routine voltage check of the individual 12S modules, which did in fact wander only slightly from each other in voltage - and one of them being particularly low alerted me to the dead / dying cell which was by then starting to drain my entire pack slowly, while also over-charging the other cells in the string. I believe it would not have happened if I had used a balancer. That said, the rest of the entire pack is fine. 43Ah x 4 parallel = 172Ah pack. I often pushed ~250 amps (~1.5C) on acceleration but usually pulled 100 - 150 amps (<1C) for normal driving.

I use the same Volt modules in my Solar Energy system. The cells wander very little - on the order of a few 100's from each other - throughout the entie pack (like for example 4.01, 4.02, 4.01, 4.02, 4.04, 4.01 etc). Those that wander more noticeably, get a balancer for a few days evey few months. And they behave wonderfully.

I wasn't ready for the mess of wires or hasstle that would be 4 parallel 36S balances wired up in my car, each set interconnecting the 3 modules in series. But now that I lost 1 cell and thus 1 usable string, I wish I had done it. But those batteies will go to other fun projects. I have a new set of 40 x 200Ah LiFePO4's so now I get to have one big string, and I damn sure will wire in that balancer - a pair of 25S 5Amp active balancers, overlapped to cover the entire pack. I think I'm going to make a voltage view screen with a hand full of Cell Meter 8's. Have my own little BMS for a fraction of the cost (under 200 all told)...

Cheers!
im using 4 paralleled 96v batteries
after traveling just a few miles in the free way I will get an audio alert tone from I think solotron jr
when I see the voltage below 93-91 volts esp if I am accelerating
this never happened before and keeps me from driving any longer distances like I did before
some say I can go down to 88v or maybe less and have no harm done ??

before I leave it’s full charged to 96-97v
about 4 v a cell
when I return home and check each cell they
are still about 4v per cell
im guessing since 4 battery’s are parallel they equal out over time??

solarron jr has a seaperste switch for water cooling
should that be on all the time?
it seems like it runs cool without it on
there is also a blower to blow air on the motor
they guy said he usally just uses that on the freeway wich seems back ward to me
but it dose take a lot of power

normally I have both off

know of any plugs that will plug in to the bms cable so dosnt have to cut the cable up?
to try to read the voltages from the plugs on top of the battery vs just taking covers off and read with a voltmeter ?

the car sat for about a year but I charged it up every month or so
but no load on it no bms etc

now the solatron jr dosnt turn on with the key anymore maybe a bad relay someplace ?
Cues are good
i added a switch directly to the battery and it seems to work now

thanks for any help/advice
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Sounds like you have battery cells die ing from old age. Sol's didn't do tones, they had programmable outputs that turned on/off whatever you connected. Not sure about Juniors, but SOL1 were designed to run aircooled, they are happier running water cooling so you get more power longer before they reduce power. Key system sounds broken, you need to do some troubleshooting. Start by checking fuses. Run your battery for a while, say a couple times around the block then measure the individual cell voltages. You'll see low ones which are the suspect going bad cells.
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Yea checked fuses Maybe a relay Buried someplace ? But when added 12v directly to sol jr seems to work Ran of a few miles on the freeway when goes below about 93-94v Seem to get a tone and doesn't accelerate much When I got back Before recharging I checked all 96 cells manually and they all read 4v So I’m stumped Anything else I can check? I usually do t run the liquid cooling since it just take battery power away Engine fan even more Retorqued axel nuts all wheels seem to rotate ok Haven’t checked the gearbox for oil in over a year but seems to work ok any suggestions appreciated Thx
How do you set the min battery voltage on your controller? What is it set to?
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This is one of the reasons I like the Batt-Bridge

It will tell you if any of your cells are failing UNDER LOAD
In a Sol, there is an web window that gives you access to changeable parameters. you just need a length of cat 5/6 and a computer /web browser that still does hard connections. Address is 192.168.1.1.1 or something like that, OXBEEF is required for some reason, heck I forgot all this stuff.
Oddly the brains in mine look to be a teensy two computer on a board hobby computer.
If you can find the downloadable files for updates there's a readme file for doing all this. Think the last updated was 5.2, but the readme file hasn't changed much. I would have to find either the laptop and power supply or reassemble then fire up the XP tower to post those files, GOOGLE them.
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