[remy_martian]

What exactly is your "L1 charge circuit" and your "L2 charge circuit?

 

[remy_martian]

Why not just have a separate 110V plug, behind a protective cover and where you can plug any extension cord into it (like an IEC cord entry on a PC), but put it behind a dustproof protective door/cover) on the car for the 110V charger and always have the J1772 plug as a Level 2 connected directly to the 240V charger?

 

[remy_martian]

Correct. I met your requirement. Two plugs.

Why on earth do you want Level 1 J1772?

 

[remy_martian]

I appreciate all the other comments, but I'm more interested in the technical question. Not all my friends have 240V accessible at their apartments and I don't want a connector that anyone can accidentally pull out. I think using my locking plug is a good idea. So I still need to solve my technical problem.

You don't have the skills or the PE license to design/build stuff for the public to use. It's illegal.

This started out as your car, and now it's come out that you're building something for everybody who went to your wedding.

And none of you had the foresight to put a multivoltage charger in your cars? All are homebuilt copies of your dual charger abomination?

Hard to believe.

Yes, it can be done.

There's no reason to, though, because everybody owns an extension cord and apartments have 110V plugs in garages. Production EV's EVSE's run off 110VAC or 220VAC as do their onboard chargers.

 

[remy_martian]

Buy a new charger

 

[remy_martian]

The 0.1 second dropout on that brownout PROTECTION relay is long enough to cook the charger...

 

[remy_martian]

You can buy 10 wide-voltage onboard chargers for the cost of smoking one J1772 charger.

Again - it's ILLEGAL to design such a device for use in a public living space.

What you do at home is between you and your god of choice, but burning down an apartment complex with your unattended rat's nest of wiring is a different matter.