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I've 30kWHr of 2013 Nissan leaf batteries in my little MGB gt. I used to get miles about 3 years ago. I've not done any range rest recently.

I've done about 20k miles in about 5 years. Still going strong.
 

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If you can do liquid cooling, I would go with Tesla model 3 batteries.
The Model 3 modules are extremely long - where would you put them? That, along with simply being too new to be plentiful in salvage, is presumably why they are rarely if ever used in conversions. They would have the advantage of likely being available for a decade or so to come.
 

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Hello, anybody out there???
Nobody on this site can recommend a Lithium source for me?
You’re not engaging anyone with their questions or concerns is why. Kinda rude after people are trying to understand what a total noob is trying to do.

Not only are Model 3 batteries not going to fit without major surgery to the firewall/trans-tunnel, there’s also no easy way to get your idea to 144V.

But, go ahead and learn the expensive way. Shipping is the killer. Buy them at a local wrecking yard, or buy a donor car and sell off what you don’t need.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi BGTEV,
One of the cars we have to convert is Volvo's version of the BGT, the Volvo 1800 es. Were you able to get your motor and batteries up front or did you put the batteries in back under the hatch. Thanks for suggesting the Green Energy outlets yesterday. Have tried to contact their Charlotte location as it is near me but have not gotten a response from them yet. Would love to find a east coast lithium battery recyler but most appear to be in Az. or Ca.
 

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Hi BGTEV,
One of the cars we have to convert is Volvo's version of the BGT, the Volvo 1800 es. Were you able to get your motor and batteries up front or did you put the batteries in back under the hatch. Thanks for suggesting the Green Energy outlets yesterday. Have tried to contact their Charlotte location as it is near me but have not gotten a response from them yet. Would love to find a east coast lithium battery recyler but most appear to be in Az. or Ca.
Motor under the hood, driving the rear through 240z 4 speed tranny, paired to the rear diff.
Half pack of the 24kwh Leaf pack when under the hood, just above the motor.

Other half pack went in the rear -under the hatch back.
Later I added another I think 6kwh pack to get more range for my longer commute.
 

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Brian, BGTEV's original post said something about "lied Coming" which turned out to be a auto-correct type error for liquid cooling. Once he corrected it, I saw no need to pursue such a tiny error any further.
I was responding to your post, not BGTEV's. Since he corrected it, I never saw it in his post, only yours... thus my question to you about what you were talking about.

Your second question to me was to ask what standard size batteries are. Decades ago car manufactures adopted standard sizes for batteries (for example type 24CF). Makers of lithium batteries for cars and boat trolling motors also use these sizes, I know cause my race car has one. I figured anyone with enough know how to do an EV conversion already had bought many car batteries and knew about standard sizes and I would not want to embarrass them, guess I figured wrong, forgive me.


Thought my original post was fairly clear on not wanting to use odd size re-cycled battery that might not be available in the future. Hopefully now that is clear. Y'all let me know when I have properly paid my nooby dues so I might expect some experienced adults here to offer useful suggestions.
I'm well aware of BCI sizes. I didn't ask you what standard sizes are; I asked you what you thought "standard size" meant. There are dozens - maybe hundreds - of those BCI sizes, so there's not one standard size. Modern EVs (after the lead-acid era) don't use any of those sizes, and the 12 V and 36 V nominal voltages which you mentioned are nonsensical for most lithium chemistries - they are traditional lead-acid cell multiples; BCI sizes and approximation to 12 V multiples are used for lithium batteries where they are marketed as replacements for lead-acid starting batteries. Anyone with enough know-how to do an EV conversion would know that, but it's okay that a new person doesn't... thus the question to establish the starting point of your understanding.

Also, in an EV "battery" normally means the entire battery system. A unit within that, composed of several cells in a replaceable and usually somewhat interchangeable package that needs an outer housing and BMS system is called a "module". While a module is technically a battery (which fundamentally means any connected set of cells), lithium ion modules are not called batteries in the EV business.

Keisteracer, if you ever realize how little you know please feel free to ask in a civilized way for assistance. Hint: civilized doesn't mean posting "anybody out there???" when you haven't been handed your desired answer on a silver platter.
 

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You're taking this very hard, but in your posts you've made some inappropriate assumptions and aren't letting go of them.

The lithium-based batteries used in an ICE racecar are not really like the lithium cells used in EV packs.

The difference is similar to what happens in Lead-Acid batteries: Lead Acid batteries for traction (e.g golf carts), cranking, and leisure involve 3 different duty cycles and hence different internal designs.

BCI sizes work fine if you're buying a lithium battery as a drop-in replacement for a lead brick, but no factory EV uses those sizes because normal roadcars don't have large rectangular spaces corresponding to multiples of BCI sizes.


Lithium pouch cells can be ordered in pretty much whatever size the designer wants, so there is no standard.

Google the GM Volt/Ampera battery and the Nissan Leaf battery. They're quite different in terms of shape, but fundamentally they're just strings of modules with multiple lithium-ion cells in parallel inside each module.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks, very informative and useful information. Since I have room up front for 4 36v li trolling battery modules I should be able to get 144v and 100 Ah in a well balanced mid engine sportscar. What I am wanting to know is, would this be preferable to say 3 48v chevy modules. Can I count on that module to be available 5 years from now. Is liquid cooling needed for an EV that makes short local trips? Is there a "chemistry" reason why the 4 36v LI trolling battery modules would not work? Thanks in advance for your help.
 

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Keisteracer - I'm not sure how you've come to think that the community owes you something, but you're generally being a demanding jackass to everyone.

I'm guessing you've found that everywhere you go, people seem to treat you the same way, because you haven't realized you're the problem.

Good luck with your build, I've no intentions of helping you when you see every comment or non-comment as an opportunity to pick a fight.

For what it's worth, the people you're arguing with have been nothing but helpful to everyone else in the community. You're the outlier.
 
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