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Im looking forward to getting mine. You may have to sell the 3rd one on ebay. Maybe you could advertise it in some of the VW bus forums? I have contacted a few people I know of who have VW buses that are converted and they have confirmed that this would work in my bus. The engine is 17" long and weighs almost 200 lbs. There are 26 batteries required which with lead acid pushes the weight of the early bay window VW bus within about 1000 lbs of the recommended loaded weight (mine is a 1970 with curb side of about 1950 lbs.) Of course with lithium weight would not even be close to maxed.
 

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I'm very envious of such a deal - very cheap!

Happycamper, if you want to recharge the van while towing it behind your RV you can do so relatively easily without a generator, etc. The drive system is capable of regenerative braking so you could set it up to have some mild regen while you're towing it. I'd suggest a remote control system with some failsafes.

If the charger only works on 240VAC (which might be the case for an online charger) you could just buy a step up transformer to do the job. We have loads of them here in NZ for running american appliances. It might weigh 50lbs for a 3kW trafo.

I'd really recommend lithium over lead acid. When you do the full life cycle cost, lithium always wins.

Sam.
 

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Well ***** you just volunteered to be one of my mentors in this project :D Thank you!!! Could you give me a link to batteries you would recommend for this conversion? Because of cash flow, Im thinking I will start with lead acid and then later upgrade to the lithiums. I have people I can sell the lead acid to if they still work. I'd like to have this up and running before next summer, so that would mean unless I could get lithiums for under about $5000 I would be using lead acids (flooded at that)....
 
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Well HappyCamper I will help where I can as well. I'd say not to worry so much about the batteries as yet. You have more than enough to keep you very very busy. When the time comes we can help as well as others. Maybe by then there will be a drop in prices and a local US based supplier so we don't have to worry about being ripped off sending money away and having to wait weeks or months. During that time anything can happen. Not a good business model in my opinion. So for the time being lets concentrate on getting the motor, controller and components installed into your ride.

Pete :)
 

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Well ***** you just volunteered to be one of my mentors in this project :D Thank you!!! Could you give me a link to batteries you would recommend for this conversion? Because of cash flow, Im thinking I will start with lead acid and then later upgrade to the lithiums. I have people I can sell the lead acid to if they still work. I'd like to have this up and running before next summer, so that would mean unless I could get lithiums for under about $5000 I would be using lead acids (flooded at that)....
As others have said, don't worry too much about batteries right now. If you go with a test string of lead acids you can size them for a 10C discharge. LiFePO4 is usually happy at 3C discharge so your LA string could be 1/3 the capacity of the LiFePO4 string for about the same weight (and probably 1/6 of the range).

With the remote regen control, you want it to be ultra reliable. I suggest you cable through from the RV to the car rather than going with an RF system. The cabin control circuit could have a simple "heart beat" pulse as well as the control signals. When the car no longer hears the heartbeat, shutdown immediately. That'll protect against short and open circuits in the cabling. I can help give you a bit more detail on what goes in the control boxes at each end of the comms line.

The regen should be set to recharge the EV over the course of your RV journey. For instance, you know you've got 4 hours of driving ahead, set up the regen for 4 hours of constant power, etc.

Other than that it should be a pretty "standard" conversion :)
 

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Would be a good application for the Fluke 233 meter



The meter stays in the tow vehicle, the LCD can be mounted up to 33 feet away =)



With the remote regen control, you want it to be ultra reliable. I suggest you cable through from the RV to the car rather than going with an RF system. The cabin control circuit could have a simple "heart beat" pulse as well as the control signals. When the car no longer hears the heartbeat, shutdown immediately.
 

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Thanks Eric. That could work...

What I was thinking was an industrial PLC to control when and how much regen to apply based on speed and acceleration and battery gauge. That way it's just set-and-forget. The only remote control you'd need is an emergency kill switch in the RV in case something goes weird.

Sam.
 

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I have my regen set to taper off once the voltage reaches 330, by 335 there is no regen. I like the idea of towing it to charge, seems like it should just work. I could charge up 100 mile range in less than 1 hour!



Thanks Eric. That could work...

What I was thinking was an industrial PLC to control when and how much regen to apply based on speed and acceleration and battery gauge. That way it's just set-and-forget. The only remote control you'd need is an emergency kill switch in the RV in case something goes weird.

Sam.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
The closest I got was 2 people wanting to make payments on a package plus yourself Theresa, and on top of all else, Ive set some "loss records" in my main business this month, I dont know that I can bridge the difference, Ill have to bow out.

Ill send your deposit back first thing in the AM

I would have loved to do this for everyone, but just dont have the funds to make it go :-(
Tom
 
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