[probuild521]

Has anyone had any experience changing to a contactor with a different coil voltage on 1238-7601 (650amp model). I was looking in the programming manual and it looks like the controller is capable of outputting any voltage 0-100% of pack voltage (mine will be 111V nominal). I've only used a 24V Tyco LEV200. I need to buy a new contactor for a different project and trying to determine what makes most sense. Also, do I want an economizer or not?

 

[probuild521]

It's been awhile since I wired one, but IIRC, the economizer interferes with the coil driver so cannot be used. You can change coil rating but why not just use the 24V?

I need to buy a new contactor and just trying to get a feel if there is any reason to not get exactly what I've used in the past.

Also, at 24V the switching frequency coming out of the 1238 to drive the contactor is rather annoying, I'm not sure if that PWM is fixed or if it varies without coil voltage.

I believe the higher voltage 1239 now supports an economizer, I just couldn't remember regarding the 1238.

 

[probuild521]

For anyone's future reference that may have this question...I just talked to Bill at HPEVs.

They are now recommended 48V coil GV200QA. No economizers on the 1238. He suggested these gigavac contactors are much quieter than the tycos were.

 

[probuild521]

Didn't a contactor come with your Curtis 1238? Mine came with the LEV200A6NAA one. And it takes 48V on the orange wire with white stripe. And the blue wire with white stripe is the coil return.

I remember being surprised at that when I found out. I was expecting it to be 12V.

*I haven't actually measured it in real life to make sure it is 48V however.

http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?keywords=LEV200A6NAA

Back when i bought my contactor the recommended one was a tyco 24V coil. However since then they have changed to recommending 48V gigavac GA200.