[PAK65]

My Logisystem controller died and so now I get to buy a new one!

Currently have a pack of Leaf batteries wired 3p16s for a 120 volt nominal because I was limited by my controller. Now that I can get a new one I want to go to 180 V nominal (2p24s).

The car is a 2000 miata and I have an impulse 9.

Looking for recommendations on the controller. I like the soliton jr., but it looks like they are no longer made or at least not supported.

Thoughts?

 

[Vortex]

My Logisystem controller died and so now I get to buy a new one!



Currently have a pack of Leaf batteries wired 3p16s for a 120 volt nominal because I was limited by my controller. Now that I can get a new one I want to go to 180 V nominal (2p24s).



The car is a 2000 miata and I have an impulse 9.



Looking for recommendations on the controller. I like the soliton jr., but it looks like they are no longer made or at least not supported.



Thoughts?

I am decommissioning my EV and will have a Solitron Jr and other bits for sale.

 

[Yabert]

Looking for recommendations on the controller!

http://www.zeva.com.au/
Seem like a good choice for you. 1000A or 600A.

 

[PAK65]

http://www.zeva.com.au/
Seem like a good choice for you. 1000A or 600A.

175 volt absolute maximum though. I will go close to 200 with the 180 volt nominal setup. It does look good if I end up staying at 120 volt though.

 

[galderdi]

I have the ZEVA 1000amp unit and I am very happy with it.
I suggest talking to them as I am unsure whether the 175V is an input voltage limitation or an output limitation.

 

[PAK65]

Thanks for the recommendation guys. I did check with ZEVA and they were very helpful. I just ordered the 1000 amp model. The 175 voltage is the input limit by the way, but I think that moving up to the 1000 amp model will solve my acceleration problem even at 120 volts nominal if I can get the amperage that these batteries are capable of. The logisystem just never would get over 300 amps and the ramp to that was slow even when I tried adjusting.

 

[galderdi]

I went from 500amps (at best) from a Curtis to a real 1000amps from the Zeva. The performance is way better. Did you just purchase the controller or did you opt for the EVMS too?

Where are you located? <Edit> Sorry I just checked and I can see you are one of the few people that does include their location in your profile...sorry

I will be very keen to hear how it turns out for you.

 

[PAK65]

I went from 500amps (at best) from a Curtis to a real 1000amps from the Zeva. The performance is way better. Did you just purchase the controller or did you opt for the EVMS too?

Glad to hear it. I am looking forward to seeing how it works. I got the controller and the monitor in order to be able to make adjustments to the controller. If I was starting from scratch I would definitely like to try the whole management system, I looks great. Already have the manzanita micro battery regulators and they are working well so I can't really justify the rest. These nissan leaf modules are great so far (1000 miles). They stay balances on there own.

I will be very keen to hear how it turns out for you.

I will post back here once I get it set.

 

[PAK65]

http://www.zeva.com.au/
Seem like a good choice for you. 1000A or 600A.

Yabert, I want to thank you for the suggestion and also galderi for confirming that the performance would be much better with the 1000 amp model. The customer service at Zeva is also excellent. I had several questions and Ian never took more than one day to respond. Often it was within hours.

The controller is simple to install and set up. The power I can now get from the batteries is what I was looking for. I easily start off in 3rd gear and only go to 4th above 40 or 45 MPH. Second is useful to show off. First is not really usable unless I want to ruin some tires As Ian from Zeva told me the 550 amp controller vs the 1000 is like comparing chalk and cheese (a better idiom than apples and oranges IMO).

Only about 100 miles so far and I will need to get some airflow to the controller, but another nice feature of the display is a temperature readout that lets me know the controller temperature. I am getting near the cutback temp of 70 C after long runs or lots of hard acceleration, but that is to be expected. So far I am very happy with this controller.

 

[brian_]

Currently have a pack of Leaf batteries wired 3p16s for a 120 volt nominal because I was limited by my controller. Now that I can get a new one I want to go to 180 V nominal (2p24s).

Those are module counts, not cell counts, right? That is, you have 48 Leaf modules (an entire set from one Leaf); each module contains a 2s2p combination of four cells. That means that whatever current a stock Leaf can produce, you currently can sustain at least three times that (because you have 3 modules in parallel), and will be going down to twice the stock current (with 2 modules in parallel).

Just trying to clarify the likely current requirement...

 

[PAK65]

Those are module counts, not cell counts, right? That is, you have 48 Leaf modules (an entire set from one Leaf); each module contains a 2s2p combination of four cells. That means that whatever current a stock Leaf can produce, you currently can sustain at least three times that (because you have 3 modules in parallel), and will be going down to twice the stock current (with 2 modules in parallel).

Just trying to clarify the likely current requirement...

Yes, 48 modules, so in reality since there are 2 batteries in parallel inside each module it is 6p with 3 modules in parallel. So if we are talking pouch batteries that is 6p32s instead of 3p16s when I was referring to modules.

After talking with Ian at Zeva he also assured me that they could deliver the current I needed at 120 Volts nominal and he was correct. I kept the same setup and have plenty of acceleration with the new controller.

 

[jbman]

I am using ZEVA's stuff, and it's really nice. I'm using their EVMS, monitor, and BMS modules. I am using the P&S DIY controller, however, because it matched the power levels I was looking for. My battery pack has a maximum charge of 200v, and I have the controller set to 1,000 amps, but I'm told it's good for about 340 volts and 1400 amps. It works like a champ. It was also dirt cheap to build compared to ANY controller of a similar (or even much lesser) power level. Paul is a great guy to work with, too, so that's a plus.