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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
had a little accident under the hood today

contactor came off the bracket and touched the buss bars on the controller. the bars partially melted and the case is pretty messed up too.... is it even worth fixing?

the reason i ask is because the car still moves although the controller terminals are pretty much toast, but it may be repairable. can anyone recommend a place that can at least take a look at it???

none of the electric repair places in my area will touch motor controllers.....
 

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What controller model and what location are you in? Can you post pics of the controller? Does it act normal and just looks damage or does it act damaged as well.
 

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Just for an example: If you join the Endless-Sphere, and ask the same question, AND post a couple photos, there are many people that can pretty much diagnose your situation, and, probably have a couple to offer to fix it, OR, walk you through the repairs.

There are several guys there, that BUILD- repair, modify, and diagnose problems on controllers, that ARE highly credible with the ES Community.

This is what I would do. No cost, no obligation, to get GREAT input. This Forum here is GREAT as well, but, more into total builds than in depth electronic repairs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
its an ep1000 and it works but there is very little left of the buss bar

i would rather not open it up myself. i have a reputation for making things more broken than fixing them
 

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Send it back to EPC and they will replace it at no charge. They have a no-fault warranty so it doesn't really matter if it's your fault or not. You could set the thing on fire and it wouldn't make a difference... they have to replace it.

- Paul
 

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Send it back to EPC and they will replace it at no charge. They have a no-fault warranty so it doesn't really matter if it's your fault or not. You could set the thing on fire and it wouldn't make a difference... they have to replace it.

- Paul
Bumblebee

Paul works for the manufacture of the ep1000! So u may want to go that way.
Good luck
ps how old is it? 1 year? or less

let us know how it goes I am in need of a controller my self, and as good as your self in making things smoke and go boom!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i just got my controller back from epc

they rebuilt it at no charge and sent it back to me. and they told me not blow it up again. i had to pay shipping back but since it was my fault to begin with i didnt complain.

anyways, i just installed it and it ran great so im happy now :)
 

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BB,

Could you post specs on your car? There could be some here that are thinking of getting that controller and may want a datapoint.
 

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Bumblebee,

that was surely a lightning-quick repair, from asking february 15th how to cope with a molten bussbar, till feb. 27th a completely repaired car, including 2-way shipping and removing and installing in the car. Sounds almost too good to be true.

Did EPC repair/rebuild or replace the controller?

Regards,


Huub
 

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that was surely a lightning-quick repair...Sounds almost too good to be true....
Yeah, I thought so, too, so I did a quick search on Mr. Bumblebee's history and these two tidbits sort of stood out:

On February 4th Bumblebee recommends to someone they buy an EPC controller:

If you're looking for high power at a low cost, you may as well just pick up an EPC industrial controller.. they run on 12 volts, and handle a billion amps...
But 5 days later on February 9th Bumblebee asks:

I'm sick and tired of the limits kicking in on these controllers when I'm in the middle of a race. What's cheapest and most powerful controller for racing????
Yeah, so, I guess the EPC controller that handles about a billion amps just wasn't good enough?

Puhhhlleeeze. These two characters, PZigouras and Bumblebee, seem to be working together, but I'm hardly an unbiased observer. :D
 

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The guy Bumblebee was recommending the EPC controller to was using a 1hp motor in a VW Bug, and considering mechanical PWM to run it. For that application, nothing wrong with Bumblebee thinking EPC would be a good fit for his budget.

PZigouras had previously stated he works for EPC. I think it's great they have a no-fault warranty, customer support doesn't get much better than that. A 10 day turn around, maybe Paul gave Bumblebee extra special treatment, maybe they do this for all customers.


Yeah, I thought so, too, so I did a quick search on Mr. Bumblebee's history and these two tidbits sort of stood out:

On February 4th Bumblebee recommends to someone they buy an EPC controller:



But 5 days later on February 9th Bumblebee asks:



Yeah, so, I guess the EPC controller that handles about a billion amps just wasn't good enough?

Puhhhlleeeze. These two characters, PZigouras and Bumblebee, seem to be working together, but I'm hardly an unbiased observer. :D
 

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Puhhhlleeeze. These two characters, PZigouras and Bumblebee, seem to be working together, but I'm hardly an unbiased observer. :D
I think I am an unbiased observer :D And I notice the two of these guys have a common complaint yet show no evidence of owning an EV having this problem :confused:

I was racing against Cadillac STS on interstate 495 when my old controller's current limiter kicked in and he sailed passed me.... I didn't spend $2900 on a [name removed to protect controller company] controller to get my butt kicked by a 10-year-old Cadillac....
I'm sick and tired of the limits kicking in on these controllers when I'm in the middle of a race.
Not that there is anything wrong with that :) Tag teams :rolleyes:
 

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You guys are far too industrious...

I'm not going to bother looking up these past posts to paste them, but I rolled on the floor
when I saw PZ brag about taking ownership of other cars that he has won in races with a 120 volt lead based EV.

Well, I have a very small and light 120 volt AGM lead EV and every other vehicle I own will beat it in a race, including a mini-van!
 

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Yeah, I thought so, too, so I did a quick search on Mr. Bumblebee's history and these two tidbits sort of stood out:

On February 4th Bumblebee recommends to someone they buy an EPC controller:



But 5 days later on February 9th Bumblebee asks:



Yeah, so, I guess the EPC controller that handles about a billion amps just wasn't good enough?

Puhhhlleeeze. These two characters, PZigouras and Bumblebee, seem to be working together, but I'm hardly an unbiased observer. :D
GOOD NEWS!!! We work together with ALL our customers, not just B-man, to make SURE they win races! Yay! :D

Oh, and we save them money too... but who cares about that, right? ;)
 

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You guys are far too industrious...

I'm not going to bother looking up these past posts to paste them, but I rolled on the floor
when I saw PZ brag about taking ownership of other cars that he has won in races with a 120 volt lead based EV.

Well, I have a very small and light 120 volt AGM lead EV and every other vehicle I own will beat it in a race, including a mini-van!
I think the AGMs are your problem.... although low resistance, they will never put out the current that a set of regular flooded cells will... the AGMs I had acted more like deep cycle batteries. They lasted a while, but could never out power the flooded thin-plate batteries. Plus they are wicked expensive... almost 3 times the price I paid for my flooded cells.

- Paul
 

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I think the AGMs are your problem.... although low resistance, they will never put out the current that a set of regular flooded cells will...... They lasted a while, but could never out power the flooded thin-plate batteries....
This is contrary to the experience of many, if not all, of the fastest electric drag racers in the world.
 

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Hey Paul,

would be great to see some details of your car, as this would be a practical example of this battery-controller-motor combination.

Any reference to a site and/or blog would be mightily appreciated.

Regards,


Huub
 

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This is contrary to the experience of many, if not all, of the fastest electric drag racers in the world.
Not really... AGMs may have higher current for the first few seconds, but the flooded thin-plate batteries seem to put out high amps until they are almost completely depleted.

AGMs output drops to almost the same as a deep-cycle battery after a few minutes. Drag racers never notice this because the race is usually over before the amp curve even starts to drop...
 

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Hey Paul,

would be great to see some details of your car, as this would be a practical example of this battery-controller-motor combination.

Any reference to a site and/or blog would be mightily appreciated.

Regards,


Huub

The race car is kind of a secret, so I'm not showing that until I get a challenge.... but my daily driver (one of them) is a 2000 Daewoo with 20 flooded batteries and an 8-inch double shaft ADC motor. The EP-1000 works great all the time, and stays very cool -- a lot cooler than the motor.

I also just installed one in someone else's car and I will post photos of that soon. He just had a Logisystems blow up on him after a few trips, so hopefully this will take care of all his problems.... he has a Kostov 11-inch.
 

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Not really... AGMs may have higher current for the first few seconds, but the flooded thin-plate batteries seem to put out high amps until they are almost completely depleted.

AGMs output drops to almost the same as a deep-cycle battery after a few minutes. Drag racers never notice this because the race is usually over before the amp curve even starts to drop...
I don't think you know what you're talking about. To prove otherwise, please give specific product examples, reference literature citations or provide test data.
 
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