DIY Electric Car Forums banner
1 - 6 of 24 Posts

· Registered
Land Rover Serie 2A, 88" 1970 Nissan Leaf / Resolve EV conversion
Joined
·
22 Posts
Hello,

Has anyone here successfully converted an old Land Rover successfully? Are there any EV kits available? How hard would it be? It is probably the same effort as converting an old Jeep or Land Cruiser

Any help is really appreciated.
Hi I am working on an 1970 series 2a 88" Landie. I have some struggle with the choice of transmission right now. In case you want to ask or share something?
 

· Registered
Land Rover Serie 2A, 88" 1970 Nissan Leaf / Resolve EV conversion
Joined
·
22 Posts
I’m resto-modding a 1960 SWB and here are some options I’ve come up with…
View attachment 126309

I like the LT230 transfer case because it is very versatile - hi/low, locking diff, many ratio options. But then again a dual motor would be nice 😊
Hi Chris, thanks for sharing!
I also like the double motor version but I think you get very short prop shafts if you mount them in a row. I think it is possible to mount them with longer if the rear axle is turned upside down. One on the right side facing forward and on the left side facing backwards. Like a cross.
The LT 230 transfer also looks nice with upsides as you mention + handbrake. What reduction gear are you planing to have? (1,9:1, Torque box?)
I am also looking at changing the stock Leaf gear ratio from 8:1 to 4:1 or even 3:1 as an option, With an reduced diff if possible. I am trying to find a company interested and able do the work.
If not possible I think I go for the LT 230 with Torque box in between. (I am also hoping to fit the Leaf battery in one box under the hood. It will be tight, I know...)
 

· Registered
Land Rover Serie 2A, 88" 1970 Nissan Leaf / Resolve EV conversion
Joined
·
22 Posts
Hi,

I converted two Series III Land Rovers into Electric, both with Oneton Transferboxes and without Main Gearbox (the all over ratio is 7,1 long and 15,5 short and it works really good). If You like, You can get more informations on my little Website:

blackcockatoos.wordpress.com

jens
Hi Jens, nice work and thanks for sharing!
I see in the 1.0 that you connect the motor direct to the transfer box. A few questions pop up in my head that you might be able to answer.
How wide is your motor? It must be pretty slim to fit to the transfer case I guess? (My Leaf motor doesn't fit to the original gear box but maybe to a LT230)
Do you have any reduction gearbox in between motor and transfer box or do you run it direct? How high can you rev it in that case?
Tor
 

· Registered
Land Rover Serie 2A, 88" 1970 Nissan Leaf / Resolve EV conversion
Joined
·
22 Posts
I’m resto-modding a 1960 SWB and here are some options I’ve come up with…
I like the LT230 transfer case because it is very versatile - hi/low, locking diff, many ratio options. But then again a dual motor would be nice 😊
Hi again Chris,
Your torque table really helps allot! 🤩
When looking at it again I understand you might not have any reduction gear in between and limit the max rev instead, right? (about 5500 rpm) It should give enough or same torque as original 4479 at 1 low. This is great even though I love torque. But maybe I shouldn't worry to much about it... ? See also that you are planning to use the newer 150hp 320Nm Leaf motor? Right?

I was dissing the two motor solution because I thought I had to wait for the 3:1 Torque box, they are currently working on. But looking at your figures and calculating with 2*250 Nm *1,9*4,7 I end up with 4.465 which should be enough?? Or what do you think? 3:1 =7050 Nm is madness!! maybe?? 😵 (Please correct me if I am wrong, I am not an mechanical engineer...) And a top speed of 168 km/h @ 10k rpm, which I will never use. I will not run it at higher revs than 6000 rpm (100 km/h) most likely. Then maybe I can use the Black box which is cheaper... Thinking loud now.... 😏
 

· Registered
Land Rover Serie 2A, 88" 1970 Nissan Leaf / Resolve EV conversion
Joined
·
22 Posts
Hi, I have bought a LT230 box now and made a rough line up in my old chassis. (I have a new waiting but I do all the mock-up work in the old one.) When putting the motor behind the transfer case it ends up close to the middle seat. I think it needs to be lowered even more. Did lay it down even more but it is still very tight. After all it seems like the old 88" isn't as roomy as I first thought... :rolleyes: Off cause it gets a little better if I remove the hand brake drum and replace it with a disc brake.
I will try to find a company who is able to change the Nissan gearbox from 8,1:1 to 3,5:1 or similar if possible?? This can be followed on the new thread I will start now. LR 88" series 2A.
Wood Motor vehicle Asphalt Gas Composite material

Wood Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Gas Trunk




Wood Motor vehicle Asphalt Gas Composite material
Wood Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Gas Trunk
 

· Registered
Land Rover Serie 2A, 88" 1970 Nissan Leaf / Resolve EV conversion
Joined
·
22 Posts
Firstly I love the innovative minds on this forum! I would therefore love to pick your brains about In hub motors..
Goal: build an series 3 EV as simply and cheaply as possible with a range about 50-80km (would be a summer cruiser here in the Dordogne; roofless green laning in an LR S3 EV is a dream right?)
I don't want a lot of horspower, top speed of 80km/h is perfect and although 4wd is nice, it is not mandatory especially with some nice tires.
I found this product from QS motors for E.3500 (Complete kit without battery and cables)
For 100km range i only need 17kwh battery (Thanks ESK for this information!) 2x times this one pre built with BMS etc. should suffice? (96v and 400 amp dicharge) E.5000 for 20KWH
Charger like this one: E.550
Cables, mounting brackets, misc: E.1000
Rebuild the mounting axle of the motor so it can be bolted onto the location of the axle stubs.
Motor is including brake system if I understand correctly. The mounting bracket for the calliper should be custom made.

So; arround 10K with all new parts?

Pro's:
  • Easy to install with the only a couple things to be custom made: The axle stub and mounting bracket for the brakes, mounting of the batteries. (althought they seem to fit perfectly under the seat?)
  • Total should be lighter than stock without engine, transfer box, exhaust, diffs, axles, etc. (arround 400kg stock I think?)
  • 0 parts that can potentially leak (Like diffs, engine, etc)
  • Reliable?
  • Cheap compared to Leaf or tesla conversions?
  • Easy to expand to 4wd, with double the range.

Con's:
  • Unsprung weight is quite a bit higher.. although i doubt you will feel this on a solid axle vehicle like this?
  • Prebuilt batteries are expensive.
  • Need some very well build axle stubs that can handle the weight of the car.

Questions unaswered:
  • Weight baring capacity electric motors..
  • Durability
  • How much power do we need to have a car that can do 80km/h and have a decent acceleration? 20kw? 40kw?

Quite the story.. but am I on to something? Or are there some glaring issues I missed?
I would love to hear your input!

Greetings from France!
Hi Robert, first I must say that you are really innovative and thinking outside of the box! I would love to see a Land Rover with "real" four wheel drive!
I think you might have an challenge to make it as rough and tough as Land Rovers originally are. It is close to an tractor for a reason. Just as you mention. Will it be weight baring and durable with the Ali-Express hub motors? When it comes to power I think you need at least as much power as the LR originally had. 50-60 hp.
Greetings from Sweden
 
1 - 6 of 24 Posts
Top