Duncan,Cheapest and best is the drive unit from a production EV - that is the way I would go today
Then there is second hand DC - Forklift motor - LOTS of grunt simple and cheap - but not as sophisticated as AC
Then you have a "New" AC system - wimpy and expensive - but you do get regen - which is not worth that much unless you are a Taxi driver
Then you have a "New" DC system - just as expensive as a new AC system but no regen and more power
1200A and 340V?!?Forklift motors
The Hitachi motor in my device is 102 kg - and I'm feeding it 1200 amps and 340 volts - its peaking at 500 hp and it cost me $150
The motors are limited not by the motor but by the controller
And you can buy much more powerful controller's for the DC motors - but not for the AC motors
I've considered it, but I'm hesitant about using permanent magnets (even if they are good quality) with motors, but I am a fan of that particular battery chemistry.. Have you had success with a leaf build? If so, what kind of performance are you seeing?What about a Leaf? For maybe $6-8k, you get the whole car—motor, inverter, batteries, and a few other bits. Less if you can find a "good" wreck. The Leaf motor outperforms all the Hyper9s and ACs I've seen...the only tricky bit is getting the voltage high enough for the inverter (Thunderstruck says that 140V is the bare minimum).
The manufacturer constraints start leaving when you use aftermarket computers...and if you're willing to remove the inverter board, you can pretty much do anything you want with the motor.
That is one rad ride sir, and I tip my hat to you!! Any kind of issues with the CANbus (this is completely new territory for me)?
I am besides myself with what you have accomplished using a 48V DC motor! This gives me an itch I cannot scratch with conventional means..The motor is a Hitachi
In the forklift its rated at 48 volts and 10 kw (200 amps) - and it will go forever at those loads! - and 1400 rpm
I am overloading it a touch !
But its not as bad as it seems - when I feed it 1200 amps I accelerate rapidly - haven't done a 1/4 mile - I planned on doing one at the end of the season last year but Covid intervened
On the 1/8th mile - I did a 7.8 seconds and 96 mph run - motor rpm would be 5300 rpm
The motor was getting the full current up until about 60 mph when the current would start to drop as the revs were rising
So it was full current for only about 4 seconds
The other reason I can do this is that I have a spare motor - which cost me $200
I'm using a Chevy Volt Battery - it seems to be OK with the mistreatment - but again its only for seconds
On the road I limit myself to 500 amps - and the motor limits itself to about 170 volt
On the track (not drag strip) I find that I'm on the power for only a couple of seconds before the next chicane
I don't have a license for high speed events - just autocross - and the organizers are meant to keep the speeds down by keeping the straights quite short
This is true, most of the manufacturers are using PM, but I'm not ready to introduce a cooling system yet. I plan to run the motor hot on multiple occasions until I figure out some things regarding my controller. I don't think this particular motor will like what I have planned as I make my way through this process, and possibly motors.Why? Do you realize that the majority of current production EVs use permanent magnet synchronous 3-phase motors?