The Outlander PHEV rear drive unit is promising in size and power, but the rear motor of that vehicle is behind the axle line:Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV has rear motor and drive unit as 1 unit.
They are very small unit like what Swindon people are using for Mini conversion kit. If you have driveshafts different length, you might have a torque steer.
I have an Outlander PHEV and when i took my car to my friend who is a mechinc, we checked out how big they are and so on.
You know, for $20,000US you could buy, with possible tax incentives, 2 or 3( that's TWO or THREE) used Nissan Leafs with maybe slightly less range available. And, drive any one of them to work and play tomorrow. With your admitted minimal skill level, this project could take many months-to years to complete, if ever. All this to convert one of Honda's first regrettable econobox death traps? That said, as a classic car in its original form, it still would be worth more to collectors or any other buyers than probably any conversion you could come up with.My end goal is to have a reliable car, with good acceleration and a range of 75-100 miles.
Budget: 20K?
Probably... if you handle the reversed rotation, including motor control and lubrication. I don't know how the Outlander PHEV gearboxes handle the oil - is it pumped?I thought you can turn rear Outlander unit back to front.
It's not a permanent magnet DC motor, so to wire a change in rotation you reverse two of the three phase wires, but the encoder also has to be changed. The other method is to just tell the controller to go in reverse to move forward, and vice versa... but there can be issues such as a lower speed limit in reverse.For a normal motor(toy) you change +ve and -ve to change direction of motor rotation.
The Honda Z Coupe is a front-wheel-drive car with a transverse engine... the typical modern small car. In this configuration the engine is normally mostly ahead of the axle line; there is typically not enough space from the axle line to the firewall to fit an engine, or even an electric motor, behind the axle line.Brian said: The Outlander PHEV rear drive unit is promising in size and power, but the rear motor of that vehicle is behind the axle line:
Steve: Wouldn't this work (behind axle set-up) according to my drawing?
I don't think you'll find much useful by the term "electronic differential"; most likely online search matches would be mechanical differentials with electronically controlled slip limiting clutches, and skid-steering systems.Due to possible size restrictions, another suggestion has been to use 2 smaller motors, one for each wheel and using a electronic differential eliminating transmission or other differential. Small motors
Anyone with input on electronic differentials?
Yes, but would they be as much fun?
Maybe 2 or 3. See post 5. And, is this the best use of soon to be hard to get, more expensive batteries? The batteries could be used for more practical DIY projects. Fun is great. Fun and practical is better. This includes the best use these EV parts for reducing CO^2 production related to climate change. Please think about it.You know, for $20,000 you can buy a better car?
That subframe looks good.The Outlander PHEV rear drive unit is promising in size and power, but the rear motor of that vehicle is behind the axle line:
Forward is to the left, as indicated by the trailing suspension arms. The motor position behind the axle would make it an unlikely fit in the front of any car designed for a transverse engine ahead of the axle line.
Mitsubishi actually used essentially the Outlander PHEV rear drive unit as the only drive unit in their Kei-class EV, the i-MiEV. In the i-MiEV, the motor is ahead of the axle line.
The Outlander PHEV rear motor is a Meiden Y61, rated at 60 kW and about 195 Nm of torque from zero to about 2900 RPM, with a maximum speed of 9,300 RPMThat subframe looks good.
what is the power spec on it
I plan to convert my Honda 600 ZCoupe to electric. Regarding skill level, I can do basic repairs:adjust valves, change plugs but not comfortable going much beyond that. My starting point is to figure if I have enough room in the engine bay. Once I know what motor set up I can use, I would then proceed to the battery setup.
My end goal is to have a reliable car, with good acceleration and a range of 75-100 miles.
Budget: 20K?
After some research I've come up with a few ideas, but I don't know if these will fit in my engine bay.
I've got about 26 inches between the axle shafts. The parts so far are an AC-50 motor, a Honda manual trans, and an adapter plate to connect motor and trans (adapter plate is available). I know the dimensions of the AC-50 motor (about 14 inches, not including shaft) but I don't know which would be the best Honda manual trans to get and thus what size it would be. I suggested the Honda trans as I know there's an adapter plate available, but I'm certainly hoping to get more suggestions for a good set up.
A friend has come up with this drawing as to the basic plan and a pic of a similar Honda 600 empty engine bay:
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Mine is a '72 N600 sedan. I've a friend with a classic mini-cooper with the set-up I think you are refering to. It's a popular conversion evidently to drop in a Honda transaxle in the classic coopers. He used the HPEV AC50 and a curtis controller. I've had my Honda for 24 years and am on version III with a 9inch DC motor, zilla 1k, manzanita pfc20 and a lithium pack of 48 CALB cells. I'm not sure a transaxle-motor arrangment will fit, what with all the other components needed....mine is a 72 sedan the N600. With the help of a coupla very knowledge and capable friends we've been upgrading it for the last 15 years. It currently has a 9inch DC motor, Zilla 1k controller and manzanita charger and lithium battery pack of 48 CALB cells. It's been fun, a learning experience, and a lot of work. I've friend with a classic mini-cooper and I think he has the same trans-axle and adapter plate you are thinking of. I don't think it'll fit. I wasn't sure a 9inch DC motor would fit till I mocked it up with a cardboard model.
QUOTE="SteveWonder, post: 1082951, member: 279786"]
I plan to convert my Honda 600 ZCoupe to electric. Regarding skill level, I can do basic repairs:adjust valves, change plugs but not comfortable going much beyond that. My starting point is to figure if I have enough room in the engine bay. Once I know what motor set up I can use, I would then proceed to the battery setup.
My end goal is to have a reliable car, with good acceleration and a range of 75-100 miles.
Budget: 20K?
After some research I've come up with a few ideas, but I don't know if these will fit in my engine bay.
I've got about 26 inches between the axle shafts. The parts so far are an AC-50 motor, a Honda manual trans, and an adapter plate to connect motor and trans (adapter plate is available). I know the dimensions of the AC-50 motor (about 14 inches, not including shaft) but I don't know which would be the best Honda manual trans to get and thus what size it would be. I suggested the Honda trans as I know there's an adapter plate available, but I'm certainly hoping to get more suggestions for a good set up.
A friend has come up with this drawing as to the basic plan and a pic of a similar Honda 600 empty engine bay:
View attachment 126431
View attachment 126432