Hi everyone,
I am a student studying electromechanical engineering. I am trying to convert a smart fortwo to an electrical vehical and writing my master thesis about it.
Fair warning: I'm new to converting cars and also very new to writing stuff on fora. So please be patient with me while I try to do a fair job at it.
I have the following things:
Now I had the following questions for who ever is friendly enough to respond to this Thread:
Any opinions about the conversion and tips are always welcome!! If you need more information before giving an opinion please feel free to ask!
Best regards,
Stef
I am a student studying electromechanical engineering. I am trying to convert a smart fortwo to an electrical vehical and writing my master thesis about it.
Fair warning: I'm new to converting cars and also very new to writing stuff on fora. So please be patient with me while I try to do a fair job at it.
I have the following things:
- Donor car which is the smart ForTwo
- Two electrical motors with the following specs: Link to the motors
- Power supply voltage: 72 V
- Motor diameter: 12 inches
- Rated power: 7 kW
- Maximum power: 11 kW
- Speed: 1100-1340 RPM
- Efficiency: 83.3%
- Torque: up to 78.6 N.m
- Controller: KBL BLDC Motor Speed Controller with the following specs: Link to controller
- Controller supply voltage range, PWR, 18V-90V.
- Frequency of Operation: 16.6kHz.
- Standby Battery Current: < 0.5mA.
- 5V Sensor Supply Current: 40mA.
- Configurable battery voltage range, B+,18V-90V.
- Analog brake and throttle Input: 0-5 Volts. Producing 0-5V signal with 3-wire pot.
- Reverse alarm, Main contactor coil driver, meter.
- Full power operating temperature range: 0°C to 50°C (controller case temperature).
- Operating temperature range:-30°C to 90°C, 100°C shutdown (controller case temperature).
- Boost current, 10 seconds: 450A.
- Motor current limit, 1 minute: 400A.
- Motor current limit, continuous: 160A.
- Max battery current is configurable.
- Batteries that we are going to use are recycled from a Prius. The problem that we need to get the voltage down to 72V for inspection and safety reasons.
- Accelerator is a standard foot throttle
Now I had the following questions for who ever is friendly enough to respond to this Thread:
- Is there anything that I need to take in to acount before I start stripping the car?
- The smart holds three computers, the Desk-computer, Central-computer and Engine-computer. Does someone have experience in "cheating" the Central-Computer so that he thinks everything is fine with the engine?
- The lowering of the voltage to 72V, use a transformer or actually try to change the build of the Prius batteries?
- Changing the build of the car will undoubtedly change the handling of the car but is there anyone with experience who can say anything about this? With this I mean, can I just keep using the existing supension and still drive it safely?
Any opinions about the conversion and tips are always welcome!! If you need more information before giving an opinion please feel free to ask!
Best regards,
Stef