) since I couldn't find acceptable cells to fit my truck. I've checked with people about the motor and controller at this voltage and apparently there's no problems being reported in the field. Below in italics is a post I put on another thread, followed by additional data.
You're using the pack voltage as an indicator of cell level LVC? Good luck. You should not be depending on the controller to monitor cell level LCV. You should monitor with something that can actually detect the 2V. The controller only detects pack voltage.
Changing out the caps is not the only thing that'l change the voltage to a higher voltage. There are many problems that come with doing that. Just ask Logisystems. Its not a simple matter of changing out the caps/diodes and FET's to a higher voltage. Other components need to change as well. If you do it, make sure you get a warranty and guarantee that it'l meet the higher voltage and higher current spec. Don't take his word.
See if "opening it up and sealing it back up" voids any warranty that you'd get.
I'd still say stay closer to the nominal rating of the controller. There's a reason Curtis says its a 144V controller. Its meant to go a little higher, but that doesn't mean that the controller is built to run at the higher voltage with less overhead. Inductance, voltage, current all play into how well the controller functions. It sounds like everyone is telling you to run at 144V but you want to push it. I'd say spring for higher capacity cells and just run 144V.
Who is this "guy" that is wanting to do this work? Has he done this on other controllers on the road? Does he have proof? I'm skeptical.
Changing out the caps is not the only thing that'l change the voltage to a higher voltage. There are many problems that come with doing that. Just ask Logisystems. Its not a simple matter of changing out the caps/diodes and FET's to a higher voltage. Other components need to change as well. If you do it, make sure you get a warranty and guarantee that it'l meet the higher voltage and higher current spec. Don't take his word.
See if "opening it up and sealing it back up" voids any warranty that you'd get.
I'd still say stay closer to the nominal rating of the controller. There's a reason Curtis says its a 144V controller. Its meant to go a little higher, but that doesn't mean that the controller is built to run at the higher voltage with less overhead. Inductance, voltage, current all play into how well the controller functions. It sounds like everyone is telling you to run at 144V but you want to push it. I'd say spring for higher capacity cells and just run 144V.
Who is this "guy" that is wanting to do this work? Has he done this on other controllers on the road? Does he have proof? I'm skeptical.
