new guy here, converting a 1958 BMW Isetta (micro car 700#) to EV. I have a Curtis controller 1234se and 2 Tesla Batteries (48 volts) Turned system on for the first time, I have error code 73 on the controller. The motor runs slow and goes in forward and reverse, I understand #3 bad crimps but I have no idea what #4 problem with power supply for the motor encoder is. Anyone have a good idea on where to start the trouble shooting?
Curtis 1234se error code 73
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LOL! I didn't mean to open the controller physically. Get in there with the programmer to see the raw inputs.
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A key piece of information is missing here - what motor are you using? If it has a resolver, looking for that 5V off the controller on J1-26 is futile
![Rectangle Font Parallel Schematic Plan]()
I have a HPEVS AC-9
5v on the 5v power control wire and 12v at the 12v power control wire, when I turn the system on the controller blinks yellow and on the display the batteries show 75% charge and the red light IS NOT ON. When I put the car in forward and pull the throttle the the red light on the display comes on and the 73 error code starts flashing on the controller.
I guess this is something I missed. I thought the Curtis 1234SE did not need to be programed. This controller does not have any input for a programing tool, all it has is the 35 wire harness plug.
The BMS is not wired at this time. (BMS Jr.2)
5v on the 5v power control wire and 12v at the 12v power control wire, when I turn the system on the controller blinks yellow and on the display the batteries show 75% charge and the red light IS NOT ON. When I put the car in forward and pull the throttle the the red light on the display comes on and the 73 error code starts flashing on the controller.
I guess this is something I missed. I thought the Curtis 1234SE did not need to be programed. This controller does not have any input for a programing tool, all it has is the 35 wire harness plug.
The BMS is not wired at this time. (BMS Jr.2)
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If you have the newer AC-9, it has a reluctor for an encoder.
![Font Screenshot Wheel Vehicle Software]()
If that's the case, sending 5VDC to the encoder means no encoder output. What exact motor revision is it?
If that's the case, sending 5VDC to the encoder means no encoder output. What exact motor revision is it?
if you got the motor/controller as a kit from HPEVS, then you likely won't need to program much, but the question is about the troubleshooting and not programming. There should be a mini fit jr connector for the display on that harness, programmer can be hooked up to that.
Good catch, I was only aware of HPEVS motors with older optical encoders and bearing encoders. Perhaps the SE series of Curtis now has the reluctor functionality as I don't recall seeing any settings for it in older 12XX series.
Hah sorry my mind must have gone there as I have been deep inside some fried ones lately.
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Things people miss on the 1234 when it has a motor stall code.
1. The 4 pin molex connector for the 1313 handset is in the harness instead of being on the controller.
2. It is possible to hook the encoder up backwards from the motor rotation and this will cause a stall code.
(Swap pins 31 and 32 if this is the case.)
3. Power for the encoder is pins 26( +5V) and 7 (-)
4. I know for a fact that the 1234 has to be reprogrammed when certain motors are used because I just did a dozen warranty claims for Hangcha over that very issue.
How I would test to see if the phase rotation of the motor was backwards from the encoder
-Test for 5 volts at 26 and 7
-Get the drive wheel(s) off the ground.
-Swap pins 31 and 32
-Make sure the drive wheels are off the ground.
-Test.
If no change, you might need a reprogram
If it ran at high speed , grab a beer.
It sounded like he got the controller as kit from HPEVS, so it should be ready to fly right out of the box. They supply a wiring harness where everything but power to the motor is already terminated with a connector, and nothing can be plugged in backwards. Also the controller has the motor setup and ready to go. I've got an AC-23 kit like that, and the only things to setup were power connections, throttle and contactor.
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Yeah , and the dozen controllers I just reprogrammed should have had the right profile in them too.
They went through Curtis and the OEM quality control with the wrong profiles and the equipment showed up at the dealerships unable to climb a 2% grade.
I've also run into the A and B phase on the encoders being swapped too many times to count.
I'm not trying to give a complete troubleshooting guide.
I'm just pointing out stuff that's real hard to figure out the first time you run into it and isn't in the service manual.
Very true, mistakes are made every day and it can be hard to pinpoint the problem when everything in the system is new to you.
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