[brainzel]

I will use this motor (D&D ES-31B) to get my wheels turning
I only found some 72V data like lbs torque or rpm.

Has anyone some data about this motor @ 120V ?

 

[brainzel]

Two weeks and no reply ... I thought that motor belongs to "standard" in ev-conversion ...

 

[Jan]

Two weeks and no reply ... I thought that motor belongs to "standard" in ev-conversion ...

I can't help you directly, but to get more attention you could add some redicilous claims. Like a nuclear fusion drive train. That might boost the response a little.

 

[Tesseract]

I can't help you directly, but to get more attention you could add some redicilous claims. Like a nuclear fusion drive train. That might boost the response a little.

Hey, what's wrong with nuclear fusion?

brainzel - the ES-31B is only a 6.7"/170mm diameter motor, so it's rather small for all but the lightest EVs. It is wound for 120 or 144V so it can't tolerate nearly as much current as a motor wound for a lower voltage but with advanced brush timing. That said, it seems to be up to the task when paired with a suitably limited controller in vehicles under 1000kg gross weight.

Rebirth Auto, prior to the development of the Soliton1, used them in their VW Bug kits with good results. Since you are in Europe you might want to give strong consideration to a 9" Kostov, which you should be able to get for the same price as having an ES-31B shipped from the US.

 

[brainzel]

Thank you Jeffrey. I already bought one, but have no curves which would be helpful at the approval by German Boiler Code.
There are a few conversions out there with this motor in "light" and "medium" cars (http://www.evalbum.com/mtrbr/DAND), so I hope the performance fits our prospects.

 

[Tesseract]

No problem... it appears we are unable to search for "d&d es-31b" here, but plugging it into google reveals an earlier thread on this site about them:

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/d-d-es-31b-motor-specifications-26251.html

On a golf cart forum someone asked exactly the same question but was told by D&D they wouldn't help them because 120V would result in the cart going too fast and they'd get sued, or something. Since you are putting it into an EV, though, 120V is eminently reasonable. Try bugging the manufacturer: D&D Motors

 

[DavidDymaxion]

I think http://www.e-volks.com uses D&D motors, they might know about running them harder than 72V.

 

[brainzel]

Try bugging the manufacturer: D&D Motors

I think http://www.e-volks.com uses D&D motors, they might know about running them harder than 72V.

Both of them couldn't give me any informations about the ~120V running
So it seems that I have to make my own experiences and curves

 

[Jan]

Hey, what's wrong with nuclear fusion?

It's at least 3x more expensive as holy smoke. And what does it give you more?

But my tip worked! You're welcome, Brainzel.

 

[TX_Dj]

Both of them couldn't give me any informations about the ~120V running
So it seems that I have to make my own experiences and curves

The amperage you feed to the motor will be much more important than the voltage of your pack, unless you intend to be running this motor at redline RPM all the time.

72v is about the maximum the motor will likely see during "normal" operation, even with a 120v system.

Voltage and RPM go hand in hand. Unless you're spinning it without a load, or driving on the freeway in 1st gear, I don't think you'll ever see 120v at the motor.

That being said, if the curves you see include amperage comparable to what you expect your controller to output, then you can expect the motor to perform more or less the same as you see in the curves.

You can see this demonstrated in dimitri's thread about his soliton controller. One or more of the graphs shows motor volts and motor amps. Most of the time his motor isn't seeing much more than about 24-36v.

 

[fugdabug]

Hey, what's wrong with nuclear fusion?

brainzel - the ES-31B is only a 6.7"/170mm diameter motor, so it's rather small for all but the lightest EVs. It is wound for 120 or 144V so it can't tolerate nearly as much current as a motor wound for a lower voltage but with advanced brush timing. That said, it seems to be up to the task when paired with a suitably limited controller in vehicles under 1000kg gross weight.

Rebirth Auto, prior to the development of the Soliton1, used them in their VW Bug kits with good results. Since you are in Europe you might want to give strong consideration to a 9" Kostov, which you should be able to get for the same price as having an ES-31B shipped from the US.

Brainzel,
I have an ES-31B in my 1989 Toyota Corolla Stationwagon conversion... It is rated at 49HP (it actually works out to about an 18HP rating!!!) ... it is 15.5" long and 6.5" dia... which makes NO (#*$&% difference for a small to mid-sized vehicle as far as I can tell from the power of this motor! I am running 108VDC Yes, 18 6V's... I modded the frontend to accomodate a six-pack!.. The motor is a workhorse.
I am however having an issue (unfortunately) with the motor at this time... It may be due to corrosion from fire extinguisher spray getting into the motor's brushes (when I burned up my first Kelly Controller... I am now running a 1231C-8205 Curtis...)
My ES-31B begins overheating after 10 miles (I mean it got really hot!), the motor has been excellent for cruising at about 40mph on the back roads (gravel with occasional flat spots) and the county paved roads. I took it for an 18.6 mile run to the 'corner store' today, and until it started overheating it was heavenly! Now like I said this is a motor that was through a traumatic beginning in this car, but has been a workhorse when it runs!
Please understand I am not the normal... so this is just to say 'I like the motor' but I am leaning toward a change out...