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David Brown 880 Tractor Conversion

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30K views 68 replies 13 participants last post by  Trickytrotter  
#1 ·
I'm looking do a 40hp tractor conversion. I've managed to find, and have now bought, a David Brown 880 Selectamatic with a tired engine - rest of the tractor is mechanically sound (so I'm told), but it does need some TLC (definitely doesn't look anywhere near as good as the one in the photo below :) ). So, here's my plan for the conversion so far:

If you look at the David Brown 880 picture below, it shows you the tractor and how the major engine and transmission components are layout.

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And, the following gives an exploded view of those major components:

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My plan is to remove the engine - basically everything above the sump frame including the crankshaft. The sump frame will remain, as it provides the structure for the front frame (and front axles and wheels) to stay connected with the rest of the tractor. Although the sump frame may need some reinforcing, which I'll hopefully be able to do when mounting the electric motor and structures for holding batteries.

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The flywheel and double-clutch, one for PTO and one for transmission, will remain (NB. the orientation of the double-clutch diagram is 180deg out - i.e. the PTO friction plate end goes into the right-hand side of the flywheel in the left diagram). So, the electric motor will be attached to the flywheel - I will need to get a coupling manufactured to match how the crankshaft was bolted to the flywheel.

However, as the engine normally runs from 700 to 2000rpm, I expect a reduction gearbox, or pulleys and belt, will need to be used between the electric motor and the flywheel. Plus the reduction box/pulleys-&-belt will also allow the motor to be mounted above the sump frame, as I don't expect there will be enough room down in the sump frame where the coupling will attach to the flywheel.

Anyway, that's my plan thus far (still waiting for the tractor to arrive). But, what do you think of my plan thus far?

Next step, researching electric motors (I'm think around 20kW?), controllers and batteries.
 
#35 ·
What about switching the transmission to reverse and vice versa (that's where I have to frequently double clutch)? I suppose though the best method would be to simply reverse the motor.

That much voltage drop for the draw you calculate seems quite excessive. Weak battery cell(s)? Might be an idea to measure individual battery voltages.
 
#38 ·
Thanks everyone.

Let me double-check my Cycle Analyst settings - perhaps I have added the wrong shunt values.
Yes, my batteries are probably a bit suspect.

Not sure what you mean about needing to double-clutch when shifting from a forward gear to reverse, sorry. I just need to stop the tractor moving, drop the motor to zero RPM and then I can change gear from forward to reverse or vice versa without any issues.

Oops, didn't know about not shifting tractors on the fly. I do it on my Fergie 135 all the time - especially 2nd to 3rd, but also down shifting when I need to slow for bumps & corners. Maybe I shouldn't be...
 
#39 ·
When shifting from forward to reverse (with tractor stopped), it doesn't grind but simply, about 1/2 the time, will not go into gear (the gearshift lever will move only a short distance. Double clutching almost always works the first time.

I suppose one could best & easiest just flip the motor forward/reverse switch - and gives the added benefit of having more reverse gears available (the YM155 has only two reverse gears, one usually too slow and the other often too high). Would be OK I guess as long as the PTO wasn't being used...
 
#43 ·
Ok, so I scrounged up a couple more batteries and hooked up the QS-180 main drive motor to 72V (increased from 48V) and that has made a definite improvement. Tractor is quite lively now and from the couple of short tests I've made the motor doesn't seem to be straining as much as it was at low RPM and it's definitely got more high-RPM speed in top gear. One battery is quite tired though, so I'll try and get a replacement, do some more testing and then post the measured results for you soon. Looks like I'll need to buy a 72V VEC500 controller for the PTO motor now though :)
 
#44 · (Edited)
Sounds like a nice improvement. Do you think more could be realized, apart from replacing the weak battery, by upgrading to batteries with higher current capacity i.e do the Surrettes have enough to drive the motors to full output?

I ask in part because I've found that a battery bank, either LA or Lithium, capable of fitting in my possible Yanmar conversion can only provide about 100A continuous which is insufficient to drive the motor that would be required.to give full continuous output.
 
#45 ·
Sorry, I'm only using the 6 LA batteries (4x Trojan T-1275 and 2x Century 120ah AGM - all secondhand that I got cheaply) for initial testing. Once I'm happy with the motor and controller set-ups, I'll then use the test data to properly size the battery requirements. I'll then see what suitable battery, BMS and charging options are available here in New Zealand.

But, yes, I have each controller set to limit the max line current to 120A at present. So, with a battery set-up that can handle a larger peak power draw then it should perform better still.
 
#48 ·
Quick update on progress. Turns out the 48V VEC500 controller and motor (Golden Motor 10kW) I have can run at 72V. Just needed to program the controller for 72V. So, the whole project is now running at 72V and everything is working well.

I now need to find some time (and clear weather) to do some some decent test runs, including mowing grass, towing a laden trailer, etc, so that I can better measure the power requirements for sizing the final battery configuration (and type). Will post the results at some stage.
 
#50 ·
Finally completed some test runs. Here's a video of one run using a 1.5m rotary slasher to mow some grass. Shots of the gauges didn't show very well in the original video, so I did a second identical test run and added the gauge videos as overlays. Hope this helps to show the electric running performance.

Apologies for my commentary where I keep over-estimating the Amps being used. I was remembering usage from previous 36V test runs, but now it's using 72V the Amps are lower :)

 
#55 ·
Quick update (I'll post a more detailed update soon): I decided on a 77V 160Ah 24S (24x 3.2V 160Ah cells in series) LiFePO4 battery pack with 200A BMS for my tractor:

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Battery arrived with 91% SOC and running the tractor for about 1/2 an hour yesterday (just taking it easy - about 30A avg) and then for about 90 mins today (moderate loads, but a couple of times at high speed - peaking 110A) and the battery has only dropped to 73% SOC (cells avg 2.97V). Now to make a cradle to mount the battery securely to the frame...
 
#58 ·
Charge to 3.4V to 3.45V per cell 24s ~ 81.6V- 82.8V let the battery rest for a half hour after battery is taken off charger. use meter as you said. Discharge to LVCC 3.0V or 3.1V/cell 24s LVC 72V-74.4V this assumes the battery is balanced.
A coulomb counter meter is often used to determine Ah in/out of a battery ,smart bms have a coulomb counter least the Ant bms has one. how accurate it is I am not sure.
later floyd
 
#61 ·
Have done a bunch more testing with the LiFePO4 battery pack and it's working out really good. The BMS's reported battery SOC is based on the Ah used, not battery voltage as I thought above. The BMS's Ah used matches pretty much what the Cycle Analyst displays say too.

Also, found that the battery voltage slumps more when the battery is cold - the numbers I mentioned above were with a battery temp of 8 degC. Testing with the battery temp at 15 degC showed much healthier numbers. Will see how my winter use goes - I might need to get an electric heat wrap sorted for it :)

Anyway, battery is now fitted with a frame to the tractor (took the opportunity to clean and paint the front of the tractor too), so looking forward to doing more testing...

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