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Discussion starter · #43 ·
Ok, so I scrounged up a couple more batteries and hooked up the QS-180 main drive motor to 72V (increased from 48V) and that has made a definite improvement. Tractor is quite lively now and from the couple of short tests I've made the motor doesn't seem to be straining as much as it was at low RPM and it's definitely got more high-RPM speed in top gear. One battery is quite tired though, so I'll try and get a replacement, do some more testing and then post the measured results for you soon. Looks like I'll need to buy a 72V VEC500 controller for the PTO motor now though :)
 
Sounds like a nice improvement. Do you think more could be realized, apart from replacing the weak battery, by upgrading to batteries with higher current capacity i.e do the Surrettes have enough to drive the motors to full output?

I ask in part because I've found that a battery bank, either LA or Lithium, capable of fitting in my possible Yanmar conversion can only provide about 100A continuous which is insufficient to drive the motor that would be required.to give full continuous output.
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
Sorry, I'm only using the 6 LA batteries (4x Trojan T-1275 and 2x Century 120ah AGM - all secondhand that I got cheaply) for initial testing. Once I'm happy with the motor and controller set-ups, I'll then use the test data to properly size the battery requirements. I'll then see what suitable battery, BMS and charging options are available here in New Zealand.

But, yes, I have each controller set to limit the max line current to 120A at present. So, with a battery set-up that can handle a larger peak power draw then it should perform better still.
 
Discussion starter · #48 ·
Quick update on progress. Turns out the 48V VEC500 controller and motor (Golden Motor 10kW) I have can run at 72V. Just needed to program the controller for 72V. So, the whole project is now running at 72V and everything is working well.

I now need to find some time (and clear weather) to do some some decent test runs, including mowing grass, towing a laden trailer, etc, so that I can better measure the power requirements for sizing the final battery configuration (and type). Will post the results at some stage.
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
Finally completed some test runs. Here's a video of one run using a 1.5m rotary slasher to mow some grass. Shots of the gauges didn't show very well in the original video, so I did a second identical test run and added the gauge videos as overlays. Hope this helps to show the electric running performance.

Apologies for my commentary where I keep over-estimating the Amps being used. I was remembering usage from previous 36V test runs, but now it's using 72V the Amps are lower :)

 
Discussion starter · #55 ·
Quick update (I'll post a more detailed update soon): I decided on a 77V 160Ah 24S (24x 3.2V 160Ah cells in series) LiFePO4 battery pack with 200A BMS for my tractor:

Image


Battery arrived with 91% SOC and running the tractor for about 1/2 an hour yesterday (just taking it easy - about 30A avg) and then for about 90 mins today (moderate loads, but a couple of times at high speed - peaking 110A) and the battery has only dropped to 73% SOC (cells avg 2.97V). Now to make a cradle to mount the battery securely to the frame...
 
Charge to 3.4V to 3.45V per cell 24s ~ 81.6V- 82.8V let the battery rest for a half hour after battery is taken off charger. use meter as you said. Discharge to LVCC 3.0V or 3.1V/cell 24s LVC 72V-74.4V this assumes the battery is balanced.
A coulomb counter meter is often used to determine Ah in/out of a battery ,smart bms have a coulomb counter least the Ant bms has one. how accurate it is I am not sure.
later floyd
 
Discussion starter · #60 ·
Thanks for the discussion, team. Yes, the battery supplier agrees. The BMS's SOC display is not accurate until the battery pack has had a number of cycles. I thought the minimal drop in capacity was too good to be true :D
 
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