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David Brown 880 Tractor Conversion

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30K views 68 replies 13 participants last post by  Trickytrotter  
#1 ·
I'm looking do a 40hp tractor conversion. I've managed to find, and have now bought, a David Brown 880 Selectamatic with a tired engine - rest of the tractor is mechanically sound (so I'm told), but it does need some TLC (definitely doesn't look anywhere near as good as the one in the photo below :) ). So, here's my plan for the conversion so far:

If you look at the David Brown 880 picture below, it shows you the tractor and how the major engine and transmission components are layout.

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And, the following gives an exploded view of those major components:

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My plan is to remove the engine - basically everything above the sump frame including the crankshaft. The sump frame will remain, as it provides the structure for the front frame (and front axles and wheels) to stay connected with the rest of the tractor. Although the sump frame may need some reinforcing, which I'll hopefully be able to do when mounting the electric motor and structures for holding batteries.

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The flywheel and double-clutch, one for PTO and one for transmission, will remain (NB. the orientation of the double-clutch diagram is 180deg out - i.e. the PTO friction plate end goes into the right-hand side of the flywheel in the left diagram). So, the electric motor will be attached to the flywheel - I will need to get a coupling manufactured to match how the crankshaft was bolted to the flywheel.

However, as the engine normally runs from 700 to 2000rpm, I expect a reduction gearbox, or pulleys and belt, will need to be used between the electric motor and the flywheel. Plus the reduction box/pulleys-&-belt will also allow the motor to be mounted above the sump frame, as I don't expect there will be enough room down in the sump frame where the coupling will attach to the flywheel.

Anyway, that's my plan thus far (still waiting for the tractor to arrive). But, what do you think of my plan thus far?

Next step, researching electric motors (I'm think around 20kW?), controllers and batteries.
 
#65 ·
Right, time for a project wrap up, and... I bet you'll be keen to see what it cost!

Ok, let's start with the cost bit first. Total project cost me NZ$24,536 (US$15,600), including the cost of the old diesel tractor (NZ$2,600).

However, the total cost includes the cost of 6x 2nd-hand SLA batteries I used for testing, plus the cables to hook them up and 12V chargers to charge them all, and a Golden Motor VEC500 I bought that I didn't need (thought I needed it when I changed from 48V to 72V). So, excluding these costs, the build cost NZ$21,428 (US$13,660). Here's the breakdown:

Base Costs:
ItemCost (NZ$)NZ$ to US$Cost (US$)
1967 David Brown 880 Donor Tractor2600.000.671742.00
QS-Motor QS-180 & ND72850 Controller2007.700.681360.00
Cycle Analyst CA3 for PTO229.260.69157.11
1-3/4" Pillow Block Bearing82.000.6956.58
7/8" Pillow Block Bearing36.000.6924.84
Golden Motor 10kW + VEC5003160.350.662085.83
Cycle Analyst CA3 for Transmission338.140.64215.13
Various Switches & 12V Relays161.170.64103.15
300A Shunts70.280.6344.47
100Ohm 10W Precharge Resistors20.910.6212.87
10k Potentiometer (x10 turn)11.220.6118.39
600A Main Contactors (12V switched)228.990.61140.76
Battery Cables (battery to contactor then to controller)291.080.65189.20
T10 Timing Belt Pulleys (x4)477.710.64304.78
T10 Timing Belt Steel36.890.6222.89
T10 Timing Belt Steel48.220.6229.92
Machined steel Motor Brackets1008.550.62625.30
Hall Effect Foot Controller57.900.6235.90
Hall Effect Angle Sensor (Hand throttle)51.030.6130.89
T10 Idler Pulley20.430.5411.03
Timing Belt Pulley Machining1101.700.57627.97
200A Circuit Breaker117.500.6171.68
Shaft Collars (to hold pulleys in place)155.600.6296.47
160Ahr LiFePO4 Battery Pack & Charger7980.240.624947.75
Kevlar replacement Timing Belts90.300.6356.89
Steel for battery mounting251.900.62156.18
Replacement front Tyre100.000.6262.00
Misc Nuts, Bolts, cables, cable ties, etc693.340.62429.87
NZ$21428.41US$13659.84
Testing Costs:
ItemCost (NZ$)NZ$ to US$Cost (US$)
4x Trojan T-1275 Batteries750.000.62465.00
Battery Balancer93.380.6157.30
13pin Plugs & Sockets61.000.6338.43
4x 12V Battery Chargers128.500.6380.96
2x 120A Batteries400.000.57228.00
Heavy cables (for test batteries)156.160.6195.26
Replacement 140A battery (replaced 1x Trojan)405.130.62251.18
Golden Motor VEC5001047.380.65680.80
2x 12V Battery Chargers65.980.6542.89
NZ$3107.53US$1939.81


So, if this tractor got stolen (or someone offers me a great price for it 😄), would I do the same as a replacement?

Yes, I think for our needs and the cost and effort involved that this conversion works out well. It is a bit noisier than I expected though, so perhaps I'd explore a more modern donor tractor (one without straight-cut gears and final drives). However, the David Brown 880's ability to lock the 3-point link arms in the up position is perfect for electric operation - means you don't need to keep the PTO motor running unless you're actually raising or lowering the arms. I guess if you converted a tractor that didn't have this then you could design and install some sort of arm locking mechanism.

Is there anything on this build I'd do differently next time?

Yes, definitely. It was a good experience trying two different motors and controllers, but for any other build I'd recommend just going with one model. In my case, I'd go for two Golden Motor 10kW motors and VEC500 controllers. The GM motor is quieter, runs cooler and the controller is simpler to configure.

Using two Golden Motors means I could've kept the voltage at 48V too. As a side-note, I've now found that most hybrid solar inverters only support batteries up to 48V. So, my plan to use the battery to bank some of our solar power on the days I'm not using the tractor has got quite a bit more complicated now that I'm using a 72V battery (if anyone has any ideas on how to use my 72V battery for solar storage please do let me know).

All the best, everyone! It's been fun sharing my build. Cheers!
 
#66 ·
Adore your project! Doing similar and figuring out the motor, when you were driving with that behind you drew 8kw did the qs180 get warm with only that, have heard it got lot of torque at 72v. Did you ever use it at that voltage? Was first thinking of qs138 but maybe torque to low and get to warm, heard 180 was a monster so surprised at your don’t work that well. Would love to hear more about your opinion
 
#67 ·
Thanks Philip. Yes, the QS180 can get a bit warm when worked hard for a while. Definitely better now I'm running at 72V than when I was using 48V. I have a temp sensor on the motor and just keep an eye on it - I try not to go above 60degC, even though I know it can handle being hotter. Interesting that the 10kW Golden Motor motor on the PTO doesn't get as hot (has a bit of fan cooling I think), but the GM motor controller runs hotter than the QS180's controller.
 
#69 ·
For the size and weight of my tractor I think the QS180 is a bit small. I'm lucky that our property is flat and not too big, so I get by with the power it delivers. If our property was hilly and bigger (so need more speed to get around efficiently) then I thinks I'd want something with more power. So, if you're using the QS180 for everything (PTO as well as traction) then you may struggle. 850A controller is fine - not sure on what the peak power is, I can get it to draw up to about 150A from the battery (so 150A x 72V equates to 10.8kW less losses), but most of the time it's drawing less than 100A.