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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
DCP Raptor 600

Anyone out there know much about the DCP Raptor 600?

I think a previous owner of my EV limitted to about 200amps (probably to save weak batteries). I'm sure I can find the dial to turn it up, but should I? Or just live with the people honking in the mirror :cool:?


-Bruce
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I bumped the Current Limit up about 25% (from ~180amps to ~230), HUGE improvement in low-end torque. I may bump it up more. I actually used slightly less kwh (5%) to get to work today (maybe because I spend less time climbing hills?)
 

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If anyone is following this 5 years from now... The throttle limiter plays a big factor too, setting it too low and the motor runs uncomanded (zero throttle)... aahh! Too high and it won't let the motor spin-out in low gears as it really should. It seams like its used to set the sensitivity of the RPM limitter.

-Bruce
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I turned it up... a lot, and my performance is far better. But... now the BMS has started to chirp that I'm some number of cells voltage have gone too low (any one will do it). So I backed it off a little and now I'm about perfect! I'm sure towards the end of the charge, it will go off, but I'd rather have the hill climbing power when I need it.

-Bruce
 
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What kind of batteries and how old are they? Keep it set high but just under the max limit. It will save your controller. 550 limit would do you OK. I think you'd like that performance and I'd almost bet you never see 550 amps if you have lead batteries.

Pete :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
What kind of batteries and how old are they? Keep it set high but just under the max limit. It will save your controller. 550 limit would do you OK. I think you'd like that performance and I'd almost bet you never see 550 amps if you have lead batteries.

Pete :)
TS LifePo4, 100ah... It's at about 250 absolute maximum now, so I'm safe. At this setting, when I really pound the throttle, total voltage drops under 128v for 44 cells, 2.9v/cell, that's average, some are probably dropping lower.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Update... now my raptor wants to quit when it gets hot. It appears to be dropping out after hills. Not on the hills... after them. Failure is de-energizing the contactors (it controls them). So the entire high-V system goes cold. Wooohoo! I need a new controller :confused:

-Bruce
 
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Update... now my raptor wants to quit when it gets hot. It appears to be dropping out after hills. Not on the hills... after them. Failure is de-energizing the contactors (it controls them). So the entire high-V system goes cold. Wooohoo! I need a new controller :confused:

-Bruce
No, you need to mount a good thick base deep finned aluminum heat sink to that controller. Dang another one trying to get away with no heat sink. It is an absolute must to have a good sink and good fan so you can keep the heat away. Heat will kill that controller post haste if you don't stop driving until you get one installed. It needs to be flat and you need good thermal compound between the sink and controller to transfer heat properly. NO EXCEPTIONS. I'd say bump up the amperage for your acceleration. Keeping it low means your vehicle is pushing those 250 amps far too long. Put the amps up so you can use them when needed. Mine is set at 700 and will be reset to 800 tomorrow. I almost never see those high amps except maybe briefly.

Get a sink on that controller NOW.

Pete :)
 

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The DCP controller has a built in large finned heat sink and thermostatically controlled fan. There have been issues with the fan dying and sometimes issues with temperature sensing.

There are several version of DCP controller out there. The older units where built by DC Power Systems in Washington state. These had an inductive throttle and specific instructions for setting it up. These units have either a DB-9 connector for the 12 volt wiring or a terminal strip for these connections (most have the later.) New DCPower controller as also available from Black Sheep Technology. These are a little different with minor case changes and a regular resistive throttle system. Peter from BST can repair older DCP controllers.

These used to be the controller to have. I installed a rare DCP 450 in the Rabbit Pickup I built. Here are my links on DCP controllers:

Black Sheep Technology
EV album page with model information
DCP wiring diagram
DC Power Systems owners manual
 

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Heat will kill that controller post haste if you don't stop driving until you get one installed. It needs to be flat and you need good thermal compound between the sink and controller to transfer heat properly. NO EXCEPTIONS.
Yes exception on both accounts. Slapping a heat sink on a Soliton won't do jack, because the only flat surface you can mount it on won't contribute a bit to the cooling (that's why there's additional water cooling). A Soliton will also handle overheating gracefully to protect itself, so you can safely keep driving even when it's hot. It just might not produce the motor current you expect it to until it cools off again.

So, yes, there's at least one exception to your "NO EXCEPTION"-claim. Don't spread FUD.
 
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QER,

Yes there are a few exceptions. I had just forgot. Had to go take a look again. Another that has a built in heat sink and fan is the Synkromotive controller.

So then I'd say check to see that the fan is working. That will be important.

It also was not a FUD thing either. The controller does have a heat sink. I has one because it needs one. The DCP is air cooled, yours is water cooled, the warp is water cooled and the synkro is air cooled but ALL controllers NEED a heat sink. There is no FUD in that. I had just forgot and had to go look again. I thought that the DCP needed an added sink. MY BAD.

Pete :)
 
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I consider the water cooling the primary on the Soliton1. Air if you can't implement it yet. Air gives limited continuous power where water gives max continuous power due to the greater cooling ability of water in their controller. So water IS primary air secondary. Do you plan on using air cooling?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The DCP controller has a built in large finned heat sink and thermostatically controlled fan. There have been issues with the fan dying and sometimes issues with temperature sensing.
Yup, sure does!

These units have either a DB-9 connector for the 12 volt wiring or a terminal strip for these connections (most have the later.)
Yup, I'm the latter. But I think I have a pot throttle. Was that an option?

Thanks for the links, I'll send mine off!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
btw... my fan appears to be working and it gives a reasonable flow (seems on par with a PC power supply). I also cleaned openned the box and cleared the dust with air.

I suspect a sensor failure

-Bruce
 

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I think all the ones built by Black Sheep have use the regular Curtis type pot box and the DCP ones where inductive. I'm not sure if the inductive units could work with a Curtis style pot box. I think that is a pretty simple internal change. Be sure to contact Black Sheep to get an estimate and shipping information. I'm glad the info helped. It is nice to see those old controller stay on the road.

Oh, the rev limiter on those things tends to be troublesome too. They work perfectly without it so if you have one try a run with it unplugged. They had problems with the strain relief failing at the sender and since they where infrared things could get dirty or misaligned.
 

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I consider the water cooling the primary on the Soliton1. Air if you can't implement it yet. [...] Do you plan on using air cooling?
There are people that run the S1 on air cooling only. If you don't have a very heavy vehicle or drive very aggressively (like racing) it'll do just dandy. Definitely in pair with other properly air cooled controllers.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Did you ever get to the bottom of the problem? I'd be interested in hearing how this turned out.
I talked with the guy who Black Sheep uses to fix their older Raptors. He said the capacitors had likely worn out (it's 10 years old). So I'm replacing the all the capacitors on the filter board. 10 x 2200uF-200wv ~$90 Mouser + shipping, it's in the mail right now. If that doesn't make the problem go away, I'll send it to him.

-Bruce
 
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