[Pop-boy racer103]

Hi all, take it easy on me as I'm just starting in this.
I have a 1957 ford popular 103e, I would like the e to mean electric. The original sidevalve is ok for a bit of fun, but I'm wanting more power/torque to get up hills and keep up with modern traffic. As it is it's a white knuckle ride at 60mph and I'm not looking to go much faster. I am keeping the 3 speed gearbox and will couple that to a motor, but know nothing about these systems. I am an electrician but have little knowledge about motors, besides 3 phase. Any help in pointing me in the right direction to learn about controllers and how the gas pedal will work much appreciated.

I would like a range of 100 miles and 60mph top speed, is that achievable

 

[Duncan]

Hi Pop
First question is - Budget!

Second Question - How sophisticated?

There is
DC - cheap - powerful - unsophisticated
New AC - expensive - wimpy - but more sophisticted
Bits from OEM EV's - medium, powerful - VERY sophisticated

 

[Pop-boy racer103]

Ahh, the budget. I like the sound of Damien's €1000 conversion but realistically £2-3000 would be ok. Dc motor basic set up using the clutch and gearbox.







Paul

 

[Duncan]

Hi Pop

For a small car like the popular and a DC conversion you simply don't need the gearbox

If you use direct drive to the diff you can put the motor where the gearbox would have gone and get the whole of the engine bay for batteries

Motor - 9 inch Forklift motor - I've just bought one for $100
Controller - Paul & Sabrina Kit 500 amps 150 v - $600
Batteries - Nissan Leaf pack $4,000 - if you drop the range to about 60 miles a Chevvy Volt Pack - $2,000

My Device is not what you need - I'm using an 11 inch motor and 1200 amps - but it is similar

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forum...dubious-device-44370p15.html?highlight=duncan

 

[Kevin Sharpe]

Ahh, the budget. I like the sound of Damien's €1000 conversion but realistically £2-3000 would be ok.

I guess you're in the UK... why not come along to the Fully Charged Show and talk through the options?

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=195137

 

[Pop-boy racer103]

Great idea, I will try to get there, a week later I'm having a new lens in my eye and won't be able to drive for two weeks afterwards so good timing.

 

[Pop-boy racer103]

Hi Pop

For a small car like the popular and a DC conversion you simply don't need the gearbox

If you use direct drive to the diff you can put the motor where the gearbox would have gone and get the whole of the engine bay for batteries

Motor - 9 inch Forklift motor - I've just bought one for $100
Controller - Paul & Sabrina Kit 500 amps 150 v - $600
Batteries - Nissan Leaf pack $4,000 - if you drop the range to about 60 miles a Chevvy Volt Pack - $2,000

My Device is not what you need - I'm using an 11 inch motor and 1200 amps - but it is similar

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forum...dubious-device-44370p15.html?highlight=duncan

sounds very doable, the pop has a torque tube so not sure how that would work. Are there any problems with water getting in the motor with it under the car. I prefer the Nissan Leaf pack. Is that US dollars

 

[MattsAwesomeStuff]

Ahh, the budget. I like the sound of Damien's €1000 conversion but realistically £2-3000 would be ok.

Damien's includes the price of the vehicle!

 

[brian_]

I am an electrician but have little knowledge about motors, besides 3 phase. Any help in pointing me in the right direction to learn about controllers and how the gas pedal will work much appreciated.

Although the cheapest approach is to use an old series-field brushed DC motor from a scrapped forklift, running at two or three times the original 48 VDC, you could stay with what you know and use a 3-phase AC motor (either induction or permanent magnet).

The controller for an EV with an AC motor is essentially the same as an industrial VFD (variable frequency drive), but with DC input.

 

[brian_]

For a small car like the popular and a DC conversion you simply don't need the gearbox

If you use direct drive to the diff you can put the motor where the gearbox would have gone and get the whole of the engine bay for batteries.

True, but the challenge here is that almost no one manages to fit a motor with sufficient torque output (to drive the vehicle with only the gear reduction of the final drive) in a stock transmission tunnel. I'm sure it has been done - I just haven't seen it.

 

[Pop-boy racer103]

Hi Pop

For a small car like the popular and a DC conversion you simply don't need the gearbox

If you use direct drive to the diff you can put the motor where the gearbox would have gone and get the whole of the engine bay for batteries

Motor - 9 inch Forklift motor - I've just bought one for $100
Controller - Paul & Sabrina Kit 500 amps 150 v - $600
Batteries - Nissan Leaf pack $4,000 - if you drop the range to about 60 miles a Chevvy Volt Pack - $2,000

My Device is not what you need - I'm using an 11 inch motor and 1200 amps - but it is similar

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forum...dubious-device-44370p15.html?highlight=duncan

I can't find Paul and Sabrina kit anywhere. Just old for sale ads. Are they still available or is there something else. I'm happy to populate a pcb if a kit is available.

 

[MattsAwesomeStuff]

https://www.ecwid.com/store/pandspowerelectronics/ <-- That link should work for you.

 

[Pop-boy racer103]

https://www.ecwid.com/store/pandspowerelectronics/ <-- That link should work for you.

Thanks, new to this and trying to absorb all the information and not blunder into the unknown like I usually do.