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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I am beginning an EV conversion with a mini cooper from the early 2000s (I'm still trying to choose which year I want but I know it's going to be a model from 2002 - 2010) and I'm trying to make my first purchase for either one or two potentiometers. I've heard that it's good to use two potentiometers because it can be a safety to a faulty potentiometer giving a false reading to the controller, since both potentiometers must have the same readings for any power to be sent from the controller to the motor.

So essentially my question is: is it necessary that I purchase two potentiometers because of the risk of one potentiometer becoming faulty and telling the controller to send too much (or too little) power to my motor or should I just stick with one?

Please let me know what you think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you for the replies! The controller I'm using is a Zilla 1K with a hairball interface but I'm unsure if it can take redundant inputs and pedals with corresponding outputs. I did a bit of research on the controller and what it's capable of handling and I found this:

"Accelerator Potentiometer Requirements
The standard unit uses a regular 5K ohm, two wire potentiometer of the type used by Curtis and other controllers.
Any throttle assembly must have at least two return springs where either one is strong enough to return the pedal alone in case the other should break.
One the input to the Hairball, below 150 ohms is off, and over 4.8K ohms is full on. Resistance over 7K ohms will cause a fault condition.
Hairballs with the -P option use a magnetically coupled accelerator pedal assembly which can be bought with the controller. It includes the pedal assembly with dual hall effect sensors and dual internal return springs."

I'm new to the EV conversion world so I don't know if this blurb from the Zilla Manual is saying that the controller can support two pot boxes or if I have to by the pedal mentioned in the last paragraph to be able to use two.

Please let me know what you think this blurb from the Zilla Manual is saying, and what I can do, if anything, to be able to enable the controller to be able to take in redundant inputs and pedals with corresponding outputs.

Here's the link to the manual (info on pot box on pg. 6): https://evwest.com/support/zilla manual 2.02d.pdf
 
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