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At that scale (I mean, technically at any scale) the "fuse" is just a chunk of wire.
You can (mechnically) measure it's dimensions and material, and just create a new one.
For racing, I would throw in something in the right ballpark and keep the factory one for normal driving.
The fuse is only there to protect your wiring from lighting on fire, so, "fusible links" are usually just 30-50% thinner than the main wiring, ensuring that it will melt at a level below where the main wiring melts.
I'd say start off with a chunk of thin wire, accelerate... and keep an eye on where you blow it up. Then use two wires, or heavier wire, then accelerate again. If you're watching the amps, you'll pretty easily mathematically determine the rough cross section you need. I.E. If a piece of 14g wire liquifies at 50 amps, and you want it to liquify at 350 amps, you'll need 7 of them, or one with the cross-section of 7 of them.
Keep it horizontal, DC will arc through a broken wire if vertical.
If you want to get fancy, take wire cutters and give it a pinch at either end. That gives a weak point for it to break. If it doesn't break at one end, and continues to arc, the opposite end will become the next weak point and it'll cut there and drop the whole wire out.
You can (mechnically) measure it's dimensions and material, and just create a new one.
For racing, I would throw in something in the right ballpark and keep the factory one for normal driving.
The fuse is only there to protect your wiring from lighting on fire, so, "fusible links" are usually just 30-50% thinner than the main wiring, ensuring that it will melt at a level below where the main wiring melts.
I'd say start off with a chunk of thin wire, accelerate... and keep an eye on where you blow it up. Then use two wires, or heavier wire, then accelerate again. If you're watching the amps, you'll pretty easily mathematically determine the rough cross section you need. I.E. If a piece of 14g wire liquifies at 50 amps, and you want it to liquify at 350 amps, you'll need 7 of them, or one with the cross-section of 7 of them.
Keep it horizontal, DC will arc through a broken wire if vertical.
If you want to get fancy, take wire cutters and give it a pinch at either end. That gives a weak point for it to break. If it doesn't break at one end, and continues to arc, the opposite end will become the next weak point and it'll cut there and drop the whole wire out.
