[piotrsko]

Definitely want heat. The performance at 80 f is so much better. Cooling so far, not so much.

 

[piotrsko]

If you read this specs, they fail open at like 600 amps in a disengage mode, so, yes they are toast. Another Chevy bit of overengineering.

Definately not a fullblown welly item, more of a sanity check.

 

[piotrsko]

Google the panisonic number on the relay.

The spec said they would guaranteed open 1 time at 400 amps then fail. THE data charts looked like it would still open at 600 amps, I thought they would fail open like a fuse.

 

[piotrsko]

I have found that they don't go out of balance until you get crazy with battery current on discharge. In my case 600 amps. Then the most positive set go wonkers. Might have to do with cell count in modules, more cell connection, higher mismatch. The 120v module gets the worst, the 98 v modules stay balanced.

 

[piotrsko]

My experiences from the dark ages of the '60s when everything was mechanical:

You get on it hard until they light, the onboard mark 2 visual monitoring system observes tach readout and causes the lower right throttle servo to back off a touch. Feedback loop increases throttle as tires warm up and get sticky and decreases throttle as rpms get near redline.

If the programmer did his job properly selecting proper gear, rpms dont go insane. Really shouldn't go above 3/4 throttle.

 

[piotrsko]

Tuft it and get someone to take pictures. Bet you have lots of backwards facing ones.
5280 is close to your motor rpm limits? Also means lots of back emf which limits output power. Slightly taller tires, perhaps?

Chin spoiler / splitter. Underbody covering. Ask the experts over at ecomodder about aero.

 

[piotrsko]

Imho you've gone down the slippery slope of fried contactor contacts. Good luck.

 

[piotrsko]

Probably correct - but I suspect its the driver not the car!
I need to hang onto my speed for longer and then brake sharper

I'm not sure braking sharper is the ultimate answer, otherwise race cars wouldn't need handling, just huge brakes and massive motors. Ever have a professional drivers schooling? Friends went to Bondurant and dramatically improved their lap times.

 

[piotrsko]

Interesting idea

I might have a word with the local track and see if there is a "racing course" I could go on

Across the street 90 year old: "stop learning and you might as well just die."

We now return you to your regularly scheduled chat.

 

[piotrsko]

[\quote]
Tried something new for the drags - 40 kg of sand in the boot

Made a HUGE difference - ended up with an 11.75

I'm thinking about moving some of the batteries into the boot and trying to lose a bit of weight (the car as well)

I'm 55/45 rear/front at the moment - should I aim for 60/40 ???

Any thoughts?
[/QUOTE]
Sandbag and passenger suggests you're traction limited. Ever go rock hard on the tires and did it get worse or go softer and it got better? In my V8 pinto we ended up with 15 psi in the rear M50-15 but should have used bead locks.

Sandbag also trends towards 50/50 but moving batteries means re doing the cables which would be a can of worms. Could add a couple of ohms and reduce motor power significantly. What happens with 2 sand bags or even 3?

 

[piotrsko]

That's why most old guys buy Corvettes over here....

Wife says it is embarrassed response to lack of male endowment. She also says she is sorry for them

 

[piotrsko]

Welding is also stronger than JB.

Since his firefighter friend refused to be a trunk weight, stainless back there isn't a bad choice

 

[piotrsko]

Hmmm cooked comm with bonus arc erosion on the brushes all done in 11 seconds? Looks like lifesytyle abuse to me.
Are you sure the new motor is going to absorb that new system voltage without zorching the comm? Looks like you are close right now.
Contacts only arc on opening, they weld on closing. Quit being so cheap and get yourself a rated quenched contact high power contactor. Panasonic makes lovely ones for the money but there are other manufacturers.

 

[piotrsko]

So perhaps a 1lb computer style CO2 fire extinguisher blasting into the motor cooling inlet for each run starting on perhaps the green detection with motor idling? How about a replacement can of oil-less Freon or does that do weird breakdown stuff to high current devices? Asking for a friend....

Afaik, 1/4 mile and cheapo never mixed in my experiences

 

[piotrsko]

Misunderstood the arc quench aspect then. I thought flooding the entire area with semi-liquid C02 would accomplish that.