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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going to purchase a Kelly Controller 76021 soon.
http://kellycontroller.com/kdc7260124v-72v600a-pm-with-regen-p-424.html

I chose this one over an Alltrax model, however after reading through the manuals I am a bit worried on the complexity of the installation and programming of the Kelly Controller.

With someone who has no prior experience with motor controllers, how difficult are Kelly Controllers to program and wire? (I guess compared to an Alltrax AXE 7234)

Thanks.
 
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Super easy. I have three Kelly controllers. The newest one is designed for ease of install and the programming is very simple. Nothing fancy but you do have some parameters to set. One Kelly I don't use anymore, one I am testing with the military starter/generator style motors with regen and the other is the KDH14800D High Power controller for series motors.

Pete :)

You will hear about some of the early Kelly controllers that crapped out but they have come a long way since the first days. The new Kelly is going in the 77 MG.

Here are the youtube links to my test of the same controller. Mine is software modified to allow me to power these motors. We are still testing the regen with these motors. They work fine with normal sepex motors if that is what your going to use. Are you planning on putting this in a large street vehicle? Small street vehicle? or what?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3x9rUYGG9oE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=txBgmkyAn8s
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oHWO4S73Gf4
 

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G

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Yes, it will be easy. Same than Alltrax.

But, what kind of motor do you have? Because the comparable Kelly controller to Alltrax 7234 is this one: http://kellycontroller.com/kd7240124-72v400apm-with-regen-p-239.html


It's much cheaper than 76021 models and you can also buy the 500A version (highly recommended).
NO, Get the newer one with higher amperage rating. The KD72401 is an old version. Not much ooomph unless you happen to put it into a vehicle like a Cushman Truckster. Then it would be fine. I'd actually go with the High Voltage line of Kelly Controllers at this point. They can pump out a good amount but also run at lower voltages. They are just much more robust. Cost more, YES but as many find out if you under estimate your needs you get lots of smoke at worst or best a wimpy running vehicle.

The KD72401 is as about as simple as it gets for hook up and you can still configure many parameters. The KDH is good because you have more external things to control and its easy to hook up.

But put it on a good heat sink with fan no matter what version you choose including the alltrax.
 

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NO, Get the newer one with higher amperage rating. The KD72401 is an old version.
Yes, it's why I choose a KDHD 156v 1000A for my project.
But maybe Mike99 don't need that much power.

And I'm not shure he choose the good controller for his motor.
We wait for your answer Mike...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Running two Agni 95R motors (I will be buying two motor controllers 1 for each motor). 400A peak, 230A continous at 72VDC. Not sure if Ill be able to get that many amps out of my battery but I still want to design for it.

The folks at Kelly suggested that model, which is why I chose it.

I am also planning on running these controllers in a sealed container for electrical isolation and water proofing. Is heating a big issue with these motor controllers? Not sure how I will be able to get a fan in there.
 
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Removing heat is a BIG deal on ALL controllers. Kelly is no exception. I'd say then you should mount your controller in an aluminum box with a reasonable thickness and properly use thermal compound then sandwich your aluminum heat sink to the outside of the box in the same area as the controller again properly using thermal compound so the heat will transfer evenly. The aluminum surfaces must be perfectly flat and mounted tight together. Then you need a good fan to draw off the heat from the sink. That can be outside the box. Or you can just install the controller in an open area that will not get wet. You will need a powerful cooling fan to keep air moving over the sink.

Pete :)
 
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I am sure you can but I'd check anyway to see if you might need or want to change a parameter. Not sure the default will be ideal for all situations. It is easy and there is not a whole lot to change. You should set your low voltage to your needs. I don't think the default is the best setting for low voltage cutback.

Pete :)
 

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I have been trying for two weeks to communicate with the 600 amp KDH controller. Kelly tech service is out of options. We have tried three drivers, a 64 bit and a 32 bit computer, and WAY too many hours waiting for slow and non-informative emails from Kelly. I have not driven more than 2 miles with it, as it will not put out more than 180 amps. It must have been set to minimum settings at the factory, but who can tell?
 

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I have been trying for two weeks to communicate with the 600 amp KDH controller. Kelly tech service is out of options. We have tried three drivers, a 64 bit and a 32 bit computer, and WAY too many hours waiting for slow and non-informative emails from Kelly. I have not driven more than 2 miles with it, as it will not put out more than 180 amps. It must have been set to minimum settings at the factory, but who can tell?
I f you are looking at the (continous) current battery side, this is what you are going to get (I expect you are using the 140V version?). Motor side you could see more than 500 A for short time under slow rotation (low motor Voltage).
Kelly is fine in respect of price but you can not expect more continous power than 30 kW (based on aircooling) , Power = Voltage x Current
 

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Kelly KDHD 144 volt controller. Okay. We were so disgusted with Kelly Tech service (one nice boy in China named Fany) that we decided to take matters into our own hands. The controller has no communication and will not turn a motor unless you take the resistance down to 2,500 ohms, and then it reaches about 180 amps peak output under load when you go full throttle. The serial port is dark. Since we could get no help from anyone, including our distributor (no warranty and no refund) , we opened the case up. Guess what? The serial port isn't even wired up. No connections at all. The entire controller is a piece of crap. Buyer beware!!!
 

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Absolute nonsense. This brand new KDHD controller only puts out 180 amps under full load. It does not turn the motor in neutral until you get to half throttle. The serial port wasn't even wired up. It was a dummy port. The controller is a piece of crap. They support nothing. NO warranty. NO exchage. NO refund. Buyer Beware!!
 

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The serial port is dark. Since we could get no help from anyone, including our distributor (no warranty and no refund) , we opened the case up. Guess what? The serial port isn't even wired up. No connections at all. The entire controller is a piece of crap. Buyer beware!!!
Ok I have not excactly the same model but it is impossible to use it without right software configuration. If you can not configure it do not use it but send it back.

Absolute nonsense. This brand new KDHD controller only puts out 180 amps under full load. It does not turn the motor in neutral until you get to half throttle.
Again where excactly did you measure the current. Did you measure the current from the battery or in the motor? What kind of motor did you use, what voltage/speed dif the motor have when it turned during half throttle?
 

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We just got the warranty address. They refuse to give me an RMA by email, and won't answer the phone (Google Phone), so I really don't know how to get one that works.
 

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The current displays on the dash (cable goes through a coil tap). 144 volts. Previous controller tested (another brand) delivered about 525 amps and drove fine. This Kelly is a toy for scooters only. The 600 amps claimed by Kelly is actually false advertising.
 

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The current displays on the dash (cable goes through a coil tap). 144 volts. Previous controller tested (another brand) delivered about 525 amps and drove fine. This Kelly is a toy for scooters only. The 600 amps claimed by Kelly is actually false advertising.
Assuming you have a 140V motor ,you normally do not see 140 V motorside unless the motor reaches full speed (base speed if not series).
In this case an 20kW motor should have about the same current motor and battery side
(20.000 kW/ 140V), about 142 A.

You only see an output around 500A MOTOR side when motor is running slowly, meaning voltage motorside is about 40V or so.(For a 20 kW motor this would be 40V*500A = 20kW)

Same time you would see still 140A BATTERY side assuming battery is fully loaded (140A*140V = 20kW).

But in the case you describe your controller is not able for configuration so you should send it back for return for a functional. I have never sent a product back but I see their US - Adress here on a previous order:

Kelly Contols LLC,
337 W, Prairie Walk
Round Lake , Il 60073
USA
Phone (01) 224 637 5092

But I would contact them on this above Phone number for the excact return adress.
 
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