[Functional Artist]

Moving right along

I added a small piece of angle steel (~9" x 1" x 1") to each end of the battery pack
...using the (2) bottom cooling channel bolts
…& mounted the battery pack onto the bike

Now, for getting it connected

I am going to "try" a 150A circuit breaker
...as a resettable "fuse" (for safety & (idea) possibly a "governor" to help me keep the Amp draw low'er)
...& as the main power cut-off switch (for maintenance & storage)

I mounted the circuit breaker into a plastic drill bit box (no "open terminals")
...it's even red, kinda matches the bike

I mounted a shunt (for the Amp/Volt meter) in another, matching box

& then

I mounted both boxed (1 on each side, kinda like "mini saddle bags")
...using industrial Velcro (to lock them in place)
...& a 36" heavy duty Zip-Tie (as a "safety strap")

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RJ2dwJVrsDM

 

[Functional Artist]

The bike is so much lighter & easier to move now
…& I can't even see it (the "new" Volt battery) when sitting on the bike

She is all ready to go
...but, I haven't rode her yet (can't wait)
...been workin' on meters (to monitor "the battery")
…& searching for a "proper" charger

As for a charger
This 2kWh section of a Volt battery is
...45V nominal/average (NOT 48V)
...the "safe" usable voltage range is 3.3V per cell (39.6V) to 4.1V per cell (49.2V)

So, a standard 48V battery charger with either a 50.4V or 54.6V (top charge setting)
...WILL NOT DO

I have been looking for a "smart" charger that can be preset to a 49V top charge

"That was an uphill battle"

I sent messages to Shauer (here in Ohio) & many, many others
...most couldn't help me
(?REALLY don't you'all make/design/build battery chargers?)
...others just "sell" premade units

I finally found a few that said they could get preset chargers

Like an
ElCon 1,500 ($569.00+ shipping) @ EVwest
...but they were "ridiculously" expensive (more than the battery itself)
http://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=12&products_id=247

I found the same charger @ EVAssemble ($340.00 + shipping)
http://www.evassemble.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=17

...then,

Michael @ EVAssemble messaged me back & told me about a "new" ElCon 1,800 ($225.00 + shipping)
http://evcomponents.com/elcon-tc-hk-h-1800w-charger.html

I messaged him back "I want one"
...he asked about some battery pack details
...but, then I never heard back (like 5 weeks now)

I found the same ElCon 1,800 for the same ($225.00 + shipping) @ EVComponents
http://evcomponents.com/customized-chargers/elcon-tc-hk-h-1800w-charger.html
I messaged them, "I want one"
...the same "Michael" guy answered & asked the same questions
...I gave him the same answers
…& haven't heard back from him (same guy) either

Then, I found this 15A Chevy Volt 12S Li-ion charger ($300.00 delivered)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/223038081042?ul_noapp=true

In the specifications it says:

"Voltage can be lowered to a lower number if you do not wish to charge your battery full"

...yes, that's what were looking for

From fellow forum member, greentecautohybredspecialists

…& they even return messages

 

[Functional Artist]

Been thinkin' & workin' on the "Tri-Quad" meter(s)
...a unit that has (3) separate gauges, that provide (4) different readings

The Tri-Quad (less than $25.00) uses an Amp/Volt meter (~$15.00 delivered) to monitor the power consumption & battery pack capacity
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-300V-500...72.m2749.l2649
(Amp: displays the amperage drawn by the motor & Voltage: displays the "total" battery pack voltage)
…& (2) individual Volt meters (~$3.00 ea. delivered) is to monitor the balance of the battery pack
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-DC-5-...var=421674045396&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
(One will display the voltage reading of 1/2 of the battery pack & the other will display the voltage reading in the other 1/2)

* As long as they both show the same reading, the battery is/should be "in balance" or "balanced"

I "really" wanted the Amp/Volt meter on top (to show total capacity)
…& the (2) 1/2 pack meters next to each other (to show the voltage of the left 1/2 & the right 1/2)

But they are (~1" tall x 2" wide)
...so (2) of them, side by side is ~4"

Now, the "hard part" is to try-n-fit 'em into where a 3" gauge used to go (old RPM gauge)

My buddy "Jim" @ Homers Cycle Shop gave me a couple of "make-it-yourself" gauge options, to try

First one looks like the back or cup for some kind of gauge
Second one looks like a chrome cover of some kind
Third is a non-functioning motorcycle speedometer (to gut, if necessary)
...or I could even "gut" the charge meter that's on the bike now

But, nuthin's big enough

Well, if we can't do side by side
…& square isn't co-operating either

How about stackin' 'em
...that would be (~2" wide x ~3" tall)

 

[Functional Artist]

Got a piece of "ribbed" black plastic (from the back cover off of an old TV)
...did some markin', drillin', cuttin' & smoothin'

Gauges fit nicely

I also drilled holes for (2) 3/16" x 3 1/2" nuts & bolts
(to attach the gauge face plate to/thru the cup & also to attach the "Tri-Quad" to the bike)

Tried it on the bike
...needed a little trimmin' (to clear the turn signal indicator & the key switch)

 

[Functional Artist]

Then I had to figure a way to secure the (3) meters in place...onto the face plate
(there are "spring tabs", for mounting but, they are only on the top & bottom of the meters)

So,
Only the top "tab" of the top meter & the bottom "tab" of the bottom meter "actually" engage the faceplate
...the others only engage each other (which doesn't provide much support)

Pot
...I'll pot/glue 'em in place

I placed the face plate, face down on a rag/on a board
...with the (3) meters in place, nice-n-flush
...& then used a couple of screws to secure it down

I used liquid tape around the perimeter, of the meters
…& worked some down in between adjacent meters too

 

[Functional Artist]

We have (3) meters glued into a faceplate
...nice-n-solid & even suspended in rubber

Now, we gotta mount them onto a "cup"
...to protect/contain the wiring & connections
…& for mounting the "whole unit" on the bike

The faceplate sits nice-n-flush on the cup, when empty
...but, not with the meters installed, (2"w x 3"t ) it's ~1/4" too tall
Hmmmm, notching?

 

[Functional Artist]

Yup, notching

It looks like we need a "notch" ~3/8" - 1/2" down/deep & ~2" wide

So, I made a couple of "cut marks"
…& used the "handy dandy" cut-off tool

First, I did the downward/drop cuts

Second, I connected the (2) down cuts, with a sideways cut
...being careful not to "over cut" the drop cuts

Third, I cleaned the "notch" up with a file

 

[Functional Artist]

Next we need to "mechanically" attach the faceplate to the cup (to make it all (1) unit)

Plan A:
Was to use (2) 3/16" x 3" long bolts with nuts

Issue:
I really didn't like the "look" of the Philips bolt head"s on the face of the meter
…& the 3" bolts (longest they had @ Home Depot) were too short anyways

Plan B: (always gotta have a plan B)

I also, picked up a 12" piece of 3/16" threaded rod (just in case)

I cut me a couple of ~4" bolts
…& will use chrome cone nuts (much kooler) on both visible ends (lock nut in between)

 

[Functional Artist]

Once it was "bolted" together & all (1) unit

I took 'er out to the bike for a "fit check"

Yup, I think that will do

I also added a couple of layers of Liquid Tape around the perimeter
...to seal/glue the faceplate to the cup
…& to seal up/cover/protect the little bit of meter stickin' out

 

[Functional Artist]

Looks Kool!...but, does it work?

Hope so, ...lets do a bench test

Amp/Volt meter
Will display the total pack voltage & the amp's being drawn by the motor

1.) connected a 12V battery to the Amp/Volt meter's power supply wires
...yup, it turns on

2.) connected the B+ sensor lead to the positive terminal
...yup, it displays the battery voltage (12.8V)

3.) gotta attach the shunt & power a load to check the amp draw
...we'll "actually" test that on the bike

Voltage meter(s)
The top voltage meter is to display the voltage in battery #1 (the "positive" 1/2 of the battery pack)
The bottom voltage meter is to display the voltage in battery #2 (the negative 1/2 of the battery pack)

1.) connected the positive (+) sensor lead from voltage meter #1 to the positive (+) terminal of a 24V SLA battery pack - (2) 12V batteries connected in series

2.) connected the negative (-) sensor lead from voltage meter #1 (combined with the positive (+) sensor lead from meter #2) to the "center tap" (jumper connection between the (2) batteries) of the battery pack
...yup, meter #1 displays the voltage in battery #1 (12.6V)

3.) connected the negative (-) sensor lead from voltage meter #2 to the negative (-) terminal of battery #2
...yup, meter #2 displays the voltage in battery #2 (12.7V)

Pretty darn close

* this was (2) separate tests
…(1) to power & test the Amp/Volt meter @ 12V
…& (1) to power & test the Voltage meters @24V

So, not to confuse you'all
On a 24V battery pack
...the Amp/Volt meter should display ~24V
…& the (2) 1/2 voltage meters should display ~12V each


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DAG3fW6_j70

 

[Functional Artist]

Bummed!

I think, I burned out balance monitor meter #2

I got the Tri-Quad mounted on the bike & everything connected

Double checked ALL connections before final hook up (plugging the BMS plug in to the battery)

Everything is a "go"

Plugged 'er in
...still looks good

Went to turn the key on to "power up" the system & turn the meters on
…& noticed Balance Monitor Meter #1 is kinda flickering
(how can it do that? they should be off) Weird/NOT GOOD

Then, I turned the key on & everything worked, as designed
...the Amp/Volt meter "lit up" & displayed 45.9V
...the battery balance meter #1 "lit up" & displayed 22.5V
...but, meter #2 didn't do nuthin', nuthin', nuthin'

I went thru everything (3) times
...WTF everything looks "right"

So, (as a test) I got out (2) other Volt meters & connected them in place of the (2) meters that are GLUED IN (what was I thinkin') to the Tri-Quad
…& it seems to work "as designed"


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M6iofDHhAC4

 

[Functional Artist]

What went wrong?

While connecting the wiring harness that goes from the Tri-Quad to the battery pack, I was thinkin'

The Amp/Volt meter is switched on/off thru it's 12V power wires
...but, the (plain) voltage meters are powered, thru the monitor wires, right from the "source"

We gotta add a switch, to be able to turn the meters on/off

So, I added/wired a relay into the "center tap" connection
...I figured that by breaking that single connection, would turn both meters on/off
(This way I could use the bikes 12V system to switch the "higher" voltage stuff (24V - 48V) on/off)


Now, I'm thinkin' that, ...IDK really?

Basically, I had the (2) meters wired in series
...maybe with the "center tap" connection off (disconnected)
...instead of ~22V goin thru each meter, there was the whole "pack voltage" (~45V) goin thru them

They should of been able to handle it
...the specs say DC5.0V - 120.0V (input voltage limit 132.0V)

Here are the ones that I used
Amp/Volt meter
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-300V-500...LH_TitleDesc=0

Voltage meters
https://www.ebay.com/itm/122117143903


But, when I look at other voltage meters
...like this one

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-LED....c100005.m1851

I notice, there is no decimal point (like on mine)

The packages are not labeled so, (maybe) did they send me "smaller" meters?
...how could I tell?

 

[Functional Artist]

I am still waiting for a reply from the eBay seller on the meters

I still don't think they were 100V+ meters
...which, I don't think, would of been a problem "if" (I didn't) they weren't connected "in series" (design error)

Moving right along

I am going to leave the 1/2 functional Tri-Quad on the bike "for now"
...to monitor total pack voltage & the amp draw

I have assembled a "smaller" digital battery pack balance monitor that I can "use for now" to monitor the balance in my lithium battery pack

I mounted (2) digital voltage meters & a switch (DPST), in a small box & simply connected it to the BMS plug (mounted it right on top of the battery pack)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-DC-5-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

[Functional Artist]

Here is a kool little video I made up of building the Digital Battery Pack Balance Monitor


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzwUiSl0Azg

 

[Functional Artist]

The bike is so much lighter & easier to move now
…& I can't even see it (the "new" Volt battery) when sitting on the bike

I have been workin' on getting legal
(motorcycle license endorsement "studying the book" & license plates)
…& ordered a "proper" battery charger


So, I finished the book & took the test

I was kinda nervous

I know how to ride a motorcycle
...but, I haven't taken a test @ the BMV in like 35 years

Boom!
I "officially" have a "temporary" motorcycle driving/riding permit

I was so happy, I went ahead & got license plates for the bike too

& since it's a 1980 Kawasaki (basically an antique) I was able to get "Historical" plates
(good forever, you don't have to renew yearly)
...but, the BMV lady was real adamant that these plates are only for going/driving/riding to shows

I was like, "Don't worry, I'll be "showing" it a lot

They gave me a piece of paper to use as a license plate until I get the real one
...they mail the "actual" plates (I guess they don't have "historical" motorcycle plates in stock)

So, I stuck it in a zip-lock bag & taped it right to
…"my own little sign" TEST VEHICLE STAY BACK


I also found Yewi, a "Chinese" co. that would make chargers "to order"
...for like 1/2 price

(I hate the way the places that sell EV stuff mark stuff up SO much)
…& they get their chargers from China too

So, I ordered (2) of their UY-600 (48V 10A) lithium battery chargers
...we'll see how it goes

 

[MattsAwesomeStuff]

For reference, your original thread, now that the forum has been undeleted, is here:

https://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=187481

Might want to edit your first post to show that.

And/or, if a mod is reading this and has the power to move posts or merge threads, they might be able to restore it for you.

On another note, I'm enjoying your build log, just don't have a lot to say about it. I like a lot of what you've done and will copy some of it on my own 1985 Nighthawk build

 

[Functional Artist]

For reference, your original thread, now that the forum has been undeleted, is here:

https://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=187481

Might want to edit your first post to show that.

And/or, if a mod is reading this and has the power to move posts or merge threads, they might be able to restore it for you.

On another note, I'm enjoying your build log, just don't have a lot to say about it. I like a lot of what you've done and will copy some of it on my own 1985 Nighthawk build

Kool & thanks
I know,
...the old thread is like chapter 1 & this thread is like chapter 2


They can't even find the garage so, I doubt it


Nighthawk=shaft drive ...hmmmmm
...i'll be watching

 

[Functional Artist]

Ohio State law requires temporary (motorcycle) permit holders to

1.) Wear a DOT approved Helmet (first year minimum)
2.) No riding after dark
3.) No riding on the highway/interstate

I am kool with all of that

I mainly want to test the "set up" & electrical components (amp draw, top speed, range etc.)

I needed a helmet

So, I put an ad on the local Craigslist

New Rider Looking for a nice Motorcycle Helmet

I just got my temp permit & am looking for a free or low cost motorcycle helmet


Within (2) days I had several responses
...most were, I have an ad posted "check it out" (mostly ~$50.00+)
…& some were kinda far away (~20 miles)

Then, this guy replied that he had several to choose from ($20.00 - $30.00 ea.)
…& right here in town, even

So, I went & checked 'em out

Yup, I brought me home a nice one ($20.00)
...with (2) tone black flames

 

[Functional Artist]

Time for a test ride
...just around/thru the neighborhood, for now


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5vRUdxZ334g